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From: N_Cook on 15 Feb 2010 03:40
The plastic tape is just for shuttering, so remove of course, when epoxy is
cured


From: Arfa Daily on 15 Feb 2010 05:08

"N_Cook" <diverse(a)tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hlb0sk$cok$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
> I'm getting rather tired of seeing band amp failures due to the use of
> these
> flimsey domestic grade of amp headphone sockets. Even if you can get hold
> of
> one off replacements, rather than minimum of 100 , what is the point of
> like
> for like replacement if only 3 years of use, not abuse, leads to amp
> failure.
>
> Current one carried a negative rail for switching purposes so definitely
> isolated switch action required.
> Starting with a standard 2 way or 3 way chassis or pcb mount socket. For 1
> 2
> or 3 isolated sockets and continued use of the 3 tip/ring/ground contacts
> to
> an inserted jack.
> Rough up mechanically the outer surface of the moving contact. Solder,
> deliberately messily for later glue bonding, some highly flexible hookup
> wire to the end of a moving contact at the switch contact end.
> Open the contact and feed some 0.1mm or so plastic tape under and around
> the
> moving contact and wire, bounded by the channel in the socket plastic
> body.
> Blank off ends with blue tac or whatever and fill the channel with epoxy,
> except a few mm at the hinge end. When cured bend back the locking tang at
> the socket plastic and remove the moving contact and Dremmel/0.6mm
> grinding
> disc, slice a slot,on the inner side of the moving contact metal, between
> frog (as in brick frog shape) and the contact . Assuming it takes this
> mechanical action, without breaking away, add a little more epoxy
> slightly
> over the cut and also on and over the free end to beef up even more.
> Repeat
> , if required on other 1 or 2 poles for more switches. Mount perhaps
> upside
> down and wire into the pcb.
>
>
> --
> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
> http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm
>
>
>

Seems like an awful lot of work to replace a component that's going to last
another 3 years anyway. Most bands would be quite happy with that sort of
level of failure. Have you had this 'improved' socket version of yours in
use anywhere that you can monitor it, for longer than three years to see if
it actually does last better, and not suffer from some different mechanical
failure ?

Some 'original' open frame switched jacks in one-off prices here

http://www.watfordvalves.com/products.asp?id=6&man=86

Not necessarily exactly what you're talking about, but still good for
replacing dodgy Fender etc jacks

Arfa


From: N_Cook on 15 Feb 2010 05:29
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:d29en.2$rL6.1(a)newsfe02.ams2...
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse(a)tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:hlb0sk$cok$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
> > I'm getting rather tired of seeing band amp failures due to the use of
> > these
> > flimsey domestic grade of amp headphone sockets. Even if you can get
hold
> > of
> > one off replacements, rather than minimum of 100 , what is the point of
> > like
> > for like replacement if only 3 years of use, not abuse, leads to amp
> > failure.
> >
> > Current one carried a negative rail for switching purposes so definitely
> > isolated switch action required.
> > Starting with a standard 2 way or 3 way chassis or pcb mount socket. For
1
> > 2
> > or 3 isolated sockets and continued use of the 3 tip/ring/ground
contacts
> > to
> > an inserted jack.
> > Rough up mechanically the outer surface of the moving contact. Solder,
> > deliberately messily for later glue bonding, some highly flexible hookup
> > wire to the end of a moving contact at the switch contact end.
> > Open the contact and feed some 0.1mm or so plastic tape under and around
> > the
> > moving contact and wire, bounded by the channel in the socket plastic
> > body.
> > Blank off ends with blue tac or whatever and fill the channel with
epoxy,
> > except a few mm at the hinge end. When cured bend back the locking tang
at
> > the socket plastic and remove the moving contact and Dremmel/0.6mm
> > grinding
> > disc, slice a slot,on the inner side of the moving contact metal,
between
> > frog (as in brick frog shape) and the contact . Assuming it takes this
> > mechanical action, without breaking away, add a little more epoxy
> > slightly
> > over the cut and also on and over the free end to beef up even more.
> > Repeat
> > , if required on other 1 or 2 poles for more switches. Mount perhaps
> > upside
> > down and wire into the pcb.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
> > electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
> > http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm
> >
> >
> >
>
> Seems like an awful lot of work to replace a component that's going to
last
> another 3 years anyway. Most bands would be quite happy with that sort of
> level of failure. Have you had this 'improved' socket version of yours in
> use anywhere that you can monitor it, for longer than three years to see
if
> it actually does last better, and not suffer from some different
mechanical
> failure ?
>
> Some 'original' open frame switched jacks in one-off prices here
>
> http://www.watfordvalves.com/products.asp?id=6&man=86
>
> Not necessarily exactly what you're talking about, but still good for
> replacing dodgy Fender etc jacks
>
> Arfa
>
>

AFAIK there is no totally isolated contact pair on those switchcraft. I use
Watford for valves but sw requirement would have to coincide with valve
purchase because of min order
I'd rather spend 1/2 hour adaopting an off the shelf item than 1/2 hour
trying to find direct replacement , ordering , waiting etc. The -15V would
go to the existing fixed contact and the potentially breakable contact would
go to the downstream side.
Those Jalco , the only strength is the soldering to the board, the plastic
"body" can flex all over the place, even with solder points in place.

Not had to make an isolated one before. Nearest was a push in to make
contact for something I forget what. Soldering a robbed inverted moving
contct to an existing and extending the fixed to an inverted contact robbed
from another. Never bounced back so maybe still functional.


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