From: Jacques St-Pierre on
Anyone can suggest a simple way to design/build a switching supply to
produce 120Vdc at 2 or 3 amps from a 13.8Vdc (car battery) with of the
shelves parts?

I thought using a cheap inverter and rectified the output, but the one I
test produce a 150Vpp square pulse, witch will result in a 150Vdc output. A
bit too high for my application. They do not appear to be adjustable to
reduce output to 120Vpp.

Bye

Jacques St-Pierre


From: mrdarrett on
On Jul 28, 2:12 pm, "Jacques St-Pierre" <multe...(a)globetrotter.net>
wrote:
> Anyone can suggest a simple way to design/build a switching supply to
> produce 120Vdc at 2 or 3 amps from a 13.8Vdc (car battery) with of the
> shelves parts?
>
> I thought using a cheap inverter and rectified the output, but the one I
> test produce a 150Vpp square pulse, witch will result in a 150Vdc output. A
> bit too high for my application. They do not appear to be adjustable to
> reduce output to 120Vpp.
>
> Bye
>
> Jacques St-Pierre


Dangerous, but... give these a try
http://sound.westhost.com/project69.htm

From: mrdarrett on
On Jul 28, 2:12 pm, "Jacques St-Pierre" <multe...(a)globetrotter.net>
wrote:
> Anyone can suggest a simple way to design/build a switching supply to
> produce 120Vdc at 2 or 3 amps from a 13.8Vdc (car battery) with of the
> shelves parts?
>
> I thought using a cheap inverter and rectified the output, but the one I
> test produce a 150Vpp square pulse, witch will result in a 150Vdc output. A
> bit too high for my application. They do not appear to be adjustable to
> reduce output to 120Vpp.
>
> Bye
>
> Jacques St-Pierre


yes, "these" (sorry, my finger slipped)

http://sound.westhost.com/project69.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project89.htm

"Seriously though, the risk of severe burns and the possibility of
causing a fire in your car are very real, and should not be
underestimated. 300A from a car battery can do a vast amount of
damage in a few milliseconds - should the fuse not blow (you will use
a fuse, won't you?), then the damage can be extensive."

Enjoy

Michael
From: Joerg on
Jacques St-Pierre wrote:
> Anyone can suggest a simple way to design/build a switching supply to
> produce 120Vdc at 2 or 3 amps from a 13.8Vdc (car battery) with of the
> shelves parts?
>
> I thought using a cheap inverter and rectified the output, but the one I
> test produce a 150Vpp square pulse, witch will result in a 150Vdc output. A
> bit too high for my application. They do not appear to be adjustable to
> reduce output to 120Vpp.
>

I guess you meant 150Vp, not Vpp (that would be 300Vpp). To make that
work you'd have to take a few windings off the secondary of the big
ferrite transformer in there until you get to 120VDC.

Instead of rectifying it's more efficient to disable and bypass the
bridge that creates the usual "fake" 3-step AC. Results in a little more
efficiency.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam.
Use another domain or send PM.
From: Tim Williams on
"Jacques St-Pierre" <multelec(a)globetrotter.net> wrote in message
news:6Dqjk.2256$%b7.2132(a)edtnps82...
> I thought using a cheap inverter and rectified the output, but the one I
> test produce a 150Vpp square pulse, witch will result in a 150Vdc output.
> A bit too high for my application. They do not appear to be adjustable to
> reduce output to 120Vpp.

Bah, trace the control circuit, they usually use a TL494. Find the feedback
resistors and insert trimmer.

Caveat: they're sensitive to turns ratio because the DC is cap-input
filtered. :-x Adding a choke after the rectifier would be a nice thing to
do for the MOSFETs.

Tim

--
Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk.
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms