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From: Gnack Nol on 5 Jun 2010 09:59 On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 15:39:49 +0200, Falk Willberg wrote: Some deleted: > I talked to the owner of the car who talked to someone, who told him > that. I also found some hint on the web, saying that some Ford-tools > need to be used to replace the FEM with a "blank" one. > > It is said to be some kind of theft protection. > > Falk That is true. Almost all late model automotive computer modules store the important basic operating data in non volitle EEPROMs. So it would still retain its old data even with power disconnected. Tis is why the car doesn't go compleatly out of operation when the battery dies and has to be replaced. The dealer has a computer designed to interface directly with the car's computer and reset the data in the modules directly. There may be some interface tools and software available to do it yourself with a laptop but it could be risky since finding the right data to reset may be a hard challenge. Gnack
From: Meat Plow on 5 Jun 2010 12:57 On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 15:39:49 +0200, Falk Willberg ǝʇoɹʍ: > Meat Plow schrieb: >> On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:40:46 +0200, Falk Willberg ??o??: > > ... > >>> I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer >>> says, that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central >>> computer would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to >>> "clear" the module? > > ... > >> If the module has data stored in volatile RAM then removing the voltage >> source responsible for holding that data in RAM would flush it. > > I was told that disconnecting the power does not do the job. > >> You did >> talk to the person who advised you to clear the module on a way to do >> it? > > I talked to the owner of the car who talked to someone, who told him > that. I also found some hint on the web, saying that some Ford-tools > need to be used to replace the FEM with a "blank" one. > > It is said to be some kind of theft protection. > > Falk Theft protection for an FEM? That doesn't make sense. Talk to a Ford dealer who repairs vehicles of that age and they will tell you how to go about clearing an FEM if they are willing to take the time. I'm sure they would have the procedure somewhere just in case they needed to clear one. If it involves a factory proprietary tool you might have difficulty getting ahold of one.
From: Charlie on 5 Jun 2010 14:49 > >>> I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I >>> don't want to do all of them). >> >> Do them all. > > I even refuse to count them: > http://falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-Loetseite.jpeg > http://falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-Bauteile.jpeg > > Falk If you can get to the card as shown in the pictures while the car is running, take a small piece of wood or plastic where you can trim the end to look like chisel shape and run it across the solder joints as if you were painting them and watch for anything strange to happen. Not too hard and try both directions. It just might catch a poor solder joint. Charlie
From: PeterD on 5 Jun 2010 15:27 On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 12:49:26 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt(a)yahoo.com> wrote: >On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:40:46 +0200, Falk Willberg ??o??: > >> A friend's 1999 Ford Windstar started to cause trouble a year ago: The >> right front turn indicator went on once, then off and a problem with the >> bulb was displayed, even though it was ok. Connecting front and side >> indicator lamp "solved" the problem. >> Later more electric devices, all controlled by this "FEM" went "mad": >> Interior lights flashed, windscreen wiper turned on and off randomly, >> theft protection sounded alarm without a cause. Almost all 2pin >> SMD-Components are slightly misplaced, probably causing bad soldering: >> (http://www.falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-1.jpeg). >> >> While removing the FEM from the car, the interior lights started >> flashing. It stopped, when I knocked on the Module... >> >> I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer says, >> that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central computer >> would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to "clear" the >> module? >> >> I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I >> don't want to do all of them). >> >> Grateful for any advice, >> Falk > >If the module has data stored in volatile RAM then removing the voltage >source responsible for holding that data in RAM would flush it. You did >talk to the person who advised you to clear the module on a way to do it? The module will have non-volital information such as the VIN number and vehicle options stored in it. This information must be updated to match the vehicle, or the module will refuse to work. Ford has diagnostic tools that do this. All Ford dealers have these tools. Despite what the OP says, they (the tools) are not obsolete and the dealers do have them. Whether the dealer will want to use the tools is a different question.
From: Tim Schwartz on 6 Jun 2010 07:44
On 6/5/2010 8:40 AM, Falk Willberg wrote: > A friend's 1999 Ford Windstar started to cause trouble a year ago: > The right front turn indicator went on once, then off and a problem with > the bulb was displayed, even though it was ok. Connecting front and side > indicator lamp "solved" the problem. > Later more electric devices, all controlled by this "FEM" went "mad": > Interior lights flashed, windscreen wiper turned on and off randomly, > theft protection sounded alarm without a cause. > Almost all 2pin SMD-Components are slightly misplaced, probably causing > bad soldering: (http://www.falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-1.jpeg). > > While removing the FEM from the car, the interior lights started > flashing. It stopped, when I knocked on the Module... > > I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer says, > that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central computer > would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to "clear" the module? > > I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I > don't want to do all of them). > > Grateful for any advice, > Falk Hmmm, I'd also suspect the 2 OMRON relays. Can you tap on them with the car running and see what happens? Also, this board looks like it has a conformal coating on it. Not so easy to resolder. Regards, Tim Schwartz |