ASUS P4B533-VM MOBO Problem
in [Hardware]
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From: jw on 23 Nov 2009 19:06 I have a ASUS P4B533-VM mobo that is facing me with a problem I have not had before. The Northbridge controller has a heat sink held tightly ontop of it with 4 very tense springees that clip onto 4 loops sticking up from the mobo. Two of the 4 loops have pulled out of the mobo enabling the heat sink to fly off its position. I can't anchor the heat sink back down without these two wayward loops, which I luckily have found. They are about 1/2" in size and actually stick down into small holes in the mobo. I suspect the loop ends protrude through the mobo and are probably held in place with some sort of clips, which I do not have. Has anyone out there encountered this problem? I am wondering if I can buy whatever retention device I will need to grasp the loop ends, or whether I can substitute something. Maybe I can buy two new loops complete with the retention's? I am going to lift the mobo out of the tower to get a peek at the other two loop ends under the mobo to see what I need. I just thought I would ask if anyone has had this problem or has advice. As a sidebar, I have a separate AGP graphics card on this mobo. So, I really do not need the on-board graphics. However, I get no raster, so I have to assume that I need to cool the on-board controller anyway. Duke
From: Paul on 23 Nov 2009 21:22 jw(a)eldorado.com wrote: > I have a ASUS P4B533-VM mobo that is facing me with a problem I have > not had before. The Northbridge controller has a heat sink held > tightly ontop of it with 4 very tense springees that clip onto 4 loops > sticking up from the mobo. Two of the 4 loops have pulled out of the > mobo enabling the heat sink to fly off its position. > > I can't anchor the heat sink back down without these two wayward > loops, which I luckily have found. They are about 1/2" in size and > actually stick down into small holes in the mobo. I suspect the loop > ends protrude through the mobo and are probably held in place with > some sort of clips, which I do not have. > > Has anyone out there encountered this problem? I am wondering if I > can buy whatever retention device I will need to grasp the loop ends, > or whether I can substitute something. Maybe I can buy two new loops > complete with the retention's? > > I am going to lift the mobo out of the tower to get a peek at the > other two loop ends under the mobo to see what I need. I just thought > I would ask if anyone has had this problem or has advice. > > As a sidebar, I have a separate AGP graphics card on this mobo. So, I > really do not need the on-board graphics. However, I get no raster, > so I have to assume that I need to cool the on-board controller > anyway. > > Duke Some of those hooks, solder in place. The problem is, the metal used for the hook wire, isn't primed with tin and lead, like a resistor lead would be. And that is why the solder doesn't stick to the loop that well. And some idiot at the factory knows this. There is at least one motherboard out there, where a clever designer put a continuity checker circuit across the wire and hooks. So they could detect if the retention mechanism ever lets go. Wouldn't it have been more clever to put the money into a proper fastener ? Another technique used on thru-hole components, is to bend the legs a bit, once they're shoved through the board. That helps in some soldering processes, to prevent components from floating out of their holds. Again, the metal used in the hooks, is pretty stiff, and maybe it is too hard to bend. You could use the leg from a large thru-hole resistor. As the power rating of the resistor goes up, so does the gauge of the wire used on the end of it. You can look at the products at Radio Shack, until you spot a resistor with the right sized wire. For example, if you cut the two legs off this, and bent the metal into a U shape, you'd have something pretty close to a hook. You'll need a good soldering iron, to get enough heat to make a good solder joint. While it may be tempting to burn the hell out of the motherboard, remember that the foil on these motherboards isn't that strong. Since I have a pretty poor collection of soldering irons, I'd probably have to use my 80W one. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062291 ******* Motherboard designs vary a bit, in their built-in graphics behavior. With an AGP motherboard having built-in graphics, if you install an AGP card, the BIOS will likely decide to shut off the built-in graphics output. And the manual may not be too helpful in pointing out what the BIOS policy is. Some more modern boards, leave the built-in running, when you add a video card. Paul
From: kony on 23 Nov 2009 22:10 On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:04:56 -0500, kony <spam(a)spam.com> wrote: >The board appears to use Intel 845G chipset, this is a flat >epoxy topped chip rather than a bare flipchip so if it is >beyond your means to resolder the loops on you might be able >to thoroughly clean off the heatsink base and chipset top >(use petroleum solvent if there is stubborn residue >remaining) and remount the heatsink with thermal epoxy >instead of the clip, but ultimately soldering the loops back >on, cleaning off the chip and heatsink, and using thermal >grease is a better option. I think the above is wrong, that 845G chipset is an open flipchip so you cannot use thermal epoxy, must instead solder the same or replacement loops.
From: jw on 24 Nov 2009 04:59 On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:22:27 -0500, Paul <nospam(a)needed.com> wrote: >Some of those hooks, solder in place. The problem is, >the metal used for the hook wire, isn't primed with >tin and lead, like a resistor lead would be. And that >is why the solder doesn't stick to the loop that well. > Hmmm. I guess I could try soldering the ends. I do have a small iron. >And some idiot at the factory knows this. There is at >least one motherboard out there, where a clever designer >put a continuity checker circuit across the wire and hooks. >So they could detect if the retention mechanism ever >lets go. Wouldn't it have been more clever to put the >money into a proper fastener ? > >Another technique used on thru-hole components, is to >bend the legs a bit, once they're shoved through the board. The ends don't protrude very much (1/8 inch). is quite stiff, and may not be bendable. Might try it though. >That helps in some soldering processes, to prevent >components from floating out of their holds. Again, >the metal used in the hooks, is pretty stiff, and >maybe it is too hard to bend. > >You could use the leg from a large thru-hole resistor. >As the power rating of the resistor goes up, so does >the gauge of the wire used on the end of it. You >can look at the products at Radio Shack, until you >spot a resistor with the right sized wire. Good idea. I'll check it out when I get a chance to break off staying with my sick wife. On top of everything else now, I am having problems myself - diarrhea. Ain't that wunnderful? > >For example, if you cut the two legs off this, and >bent the metal into a U shape, you'd have something >pretty close to a hook. You'll need a good soldering >iron, to get enough heat to make a good solder joint. I have a kit hardly used from Harbor Freight. Maybe about time I tried it. >While it may be tempting to burn the hell out of the >motherboard, remember that the foil on these motherboards Thanks for your ideas. Duke >isn't that strong. Since I have a pretty poor collection >of soldering irons, I'd probably have to use my 80W one. > >http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062291 > >******* > >Motherboard designs vary a bit, in their built-in graphics >behavior. With an AGP motherboard having built-in graphics, >if you install an AGP card, the BIOS will likely decide to >shut off the built-in graphics output. And the manual may >not be too helpful in pointing out what the BIOS policy is. >Some more modern boards, leave the built-in running, when >you add a video card. > > Paul
From: jw on 24 Nov 2009 05:13 On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:10:16 -0500, kony <spam(a)spam.com> wrote: >On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:04:56 -0500, kony <spam(a)spam.com> >wrote: > > >>The board appears to use Intel 845G chipset, this is a flat >>epoxy topped chip rather than a bare flipchip so if it is >>beyond your means to resolder the loops on you might be able >>to thoroughly clean off the heatsink base and chipset top >>(use petroleum solvent if there is stubborn residue >>remaining) and remount the heatsink with thermal epoxy >>instead of the clip, but ultimately soldering the loops back >>on, cleaning off the chip and heatsink, and using thermal >>grease is a better option. > >I think the above is wrong, that 845G chipset is an open >flipchip so you cannot use thermal epoxy, must instead >solder the same or replacement loops. What is an 'open flip chip'? Please excuse my ignorance. Duke
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