Air Compressor Problem - Motor Stalls
in [Repair]
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From: Sparks Fergusson on 9 Mar 2010 00:57 PeterD <peter2(a)hipson.net> wrote: >Well, he did say (in another post) he's bypassed the pressure switch >for a test run, and the symptoms persist. I think he's got a high >resistance point in the wiring too, but I'm not sure where. Yes, bypassing the pressure switch doesn't make any diffence. You may well be right about a high resistance point. >Maybe monitor voltage at the motor terminals might give a clue. I can't easily get to the internal terminals. The closest I can measure is at the pressure switch, and the voltage looks fine there. >As Alan says, locked rotor should result in very high current/power >draws. It is very noticable, and unless the compressor is on a circuit >that is vastly overfused result in a blown fuse/tripped breaker almost >immediately. It's on a standard outlet circuit with a 20A breaker. It hasn't tripped. Nor have there been any of the signs that you mention for high current draw. >Can you (the OP) post specicifications from the motor's name plate, >and the compressor assembly? FWIW, no compressor has a fractional HP >motor, most are motors rated at 1 to 3 HP on small compressors. 1/3 HP is what's on the nameplate. These days, it would probably be rated at 1 or 2 "marketing HP" :-) The compressor itself has long lost it's label. But, it's a single cylinder reciprocating, belt driven compressor with about a 20 gallon tank, a 3 inch pulley on the motor and a 9 inch on the compressor. The motor was made by GE, and is labeled: Model: 5KC42JG391AX Volts: 115/230 Ph: 1 Amps: 6.0/3.0 HP: 1/3 HZ: 60 RPM: 1725 It's running on 120 volts.
From: Sparks Fergusson on 9 Mar 2010 21:00 Meat Plow wrote: >On Tue, 09 Mar 2010 05:57:35 GMT, hatespam(a)invalid.invalid (Sparks >>Model: 5KC42JG391AX >Is that ther right Part #? Does it have some dashes inbetween the >numbers and letter like most Ge motors do? No dashes. That's what's printed on the motor nameplate. >Is it wired for 120? Yes.
From: David on 15 Mar 2010 21:45 In article <4b944c36.5653699(a)news.eternal-september.org>, hatespam(a)invalid.invalid (Sparks Fergusson) wrote: .... > > The voltage to the motor is never interrupted during the stop/start > cycle. Above a certain psi (about 95), the motor starts bogging down > and eventually stops. This occurs even if I bypass the pressure switch > and attach the cord directly to the motor leads. Then, after the > unloader vents the pressure, the motor will restart. I had a somewhat similar set of symptoms with my compressor. Spent a while trying to figure out what was wrong. The problem turned out to be that wasps had plugged up the air input holes with mud. Cleaned out the mud and away she went David
From: Sparks Fergusson on 16 Mar 2010 01:33 David <postings(a)REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote: >The problem turned out to be that wasps had plugged up the air input >holes with mud. Cleaned out the mud and away she went Darn mud daubers! Not the issue with mine, though. Thanks!
From: Jeffrey D Angus on 17 Mar 2010 13:59
hatespam(a)invalid.invalid (Sparks Fergusson) wrote: > ... > The voltage to the motor is never interrupted during the stop/start > cycle. Above a certain psi (about 95), the motor starts bogging down > and eventually stops. This occurs even if I bypass the pressure switch > and attach the cord directly to the motor leads. Then, after the > unloader vents the pressure, the motor will restart. Is it an oil-less compresser? They are VERY sensitive to both ends being lined up correctly. The through bolts loosen under vibration and the ends shift slightly. Re-align them and that should solve the problem. Jeff -- �Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity.� Frank Leahy, Head coach, Notre Dame 1941-1954 http://www.stay-connect.com |