From: Scrim on
<stratus46(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:442f6f03-dad3-49d1-9c5b-7a240a31226c(a)q23g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 5, 9:49 am, "Scrim" <nos...(a)nospam.nospam> wrote:
> Is there a DIY circuit out there for a good current tracer? I have
a
> valuable multilayer pcb with a short between a power supply line
and earth I
> can't find. The basic idea is to inject a string of pulses through
shorted
> circuit and use a small solenoid type sensor to follow the current
path
> until the short is reached.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan

Has it ever worked or is this a failure? Are you thinking incomplete
etch or shorted bypass cap?

G�

Thanks for the ideas. This is a high precision board that used to work.
Ideally I'd like to have a thermal camera, so I like the idea of trying a
digital camera in a dark room. Does it have to be a CCD? I'm not sure what
my web cam is (cmos?), but at least the infrared filter is easy to remove
and it doesn't have autofocus, so I can set it right with the lights on
first.
It's a multilayer board so tracing with an ohm meter seems like a bit of a
non-starter as I have no idea where the tracks go, and because of it's
precision I don't want to cover it in frost, although that's a great idea
for another time.
I've already repaired an area of board under an electrolytic that leaked.
The board was carbonised all the way through, but I think I've fixed that.
I've looked at all the tantalum capacitors I can see and they all seem ok.

Alan

From: tm on

"Scrim" <nospam(a)nospam.nospam> wrote in message
news:I7vun.199336$ti6.7573(a)newsfe24.ams2...
> <stratus46(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:442f6f03-dad3-49d1-9c5b-7a240a31226c(a)q23g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 5, 9:49 am, "Scrim" <nos...(a)nospam.nospam> wrote:
> > Is there a DIY circuit out there for a good current tracer? I have
> a
> > valuable multilayer pcb with a short between a power supply line
> and earth I
> > can't find. The basic idea is to inject a string of pulses through
> shorted
> > circuit and use a small solenoid type sensor to follow the current
> path
> > until the short is reached.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Alan
>
> Has it ever worked or is this a failure? Are you thinking incomplete
> etch or shorted bypass cap?
>
> G�
>
> Thanks for the ideas. This is a high precision board that used to work.
> Ideally I'd like to have a thermal camera, so I like the idea of trying a
> digital camera in a dark room. Does it have to be a CCD? I'm not sure what
> my web cam is (cmos?), but at least the infrared filter is easy to remove
> and it doesn't have autofocus, so I can set it right with the lights on
> first.
> It's a multilayer board so tracing with an ohm meter seems like a bit of a
> non-starter as I have no idea where the tracks go, and because of it's
> precision I don't want to cover it in frost, although that's a great idea
> for another time.
> I've already repaired an area of board under an electrolytic that leaked.
> The board was carbonised all the way through, but I think I've fixed that.
> I've looked at all the tantalum capacitors I can see and they all seem ok.
>
> Alan
A normal CCD infrared camera will not see the heat you are looking for.
Only a thermal imager will do that and they are $$$$$$$ not cheap.
Maybe you could rent one?

It would be nice if you had the board layout. A good DVM on the mV
range could find the short. Or the ESR meter suggested by someone else would
work.







From: Wild_Bill on
I dunno about DIY circuits, but a circuit tracer and milli-ohm meter should
be very helpful in trying to find a low resistance path on a board without
an schematic.

If you're lucky, and/or patient, you might find one cheaply on eBay or
elsewhere.

Toneohm is one brand name for shorts locators, and I bought one of their
older models years ago for about $20 on eBay.

The circuit-tracing types of shorts locators generally have a digital
display, but the helpful feature is the tone ouput, which allows the
operator to test circuit locations without watching the display, as the tone
changes as the test points get closer to the short.

The models I've seen use 4-wire Kelvin probe sets, which allows the circuit
tester to ignore circuit component resistance values.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Scrim" <nospam(a)nospam.nospam> wrote in message
news:1woun.157498$1j3.78945(a)newsfe10.ams2...
> Is there a DIY circuit out there for a good current tracer? I have a
> valuable multilayer pcb with a short between a power supply line and earth
> I can't find. The basic idea is to inject a string of pulses through
> shorted circuit and use a small solenoid type sensor to follow the current
> path until the short is reached.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan

From: stratus46 on
On Apr 5, 5:20 pm, "Scrim" <nos...(a)nospam.nospam> wrote:
> <stratu...(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:442f6f03-dad3-49d1-9c5b-7a240a31226c(a)q23g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 5, 9:49 am, "Scrim" <nos...(a)nospam.nospam> wrote:
>  > Is there a DIY circuit out there for a good current tracer? I have
> a
>  > valuable multilayer pcb with a short between a power supply line
> and earth I
>  > can't find. The basic idea is to inject a string of pulses through
> shorted
>  > circuit and use a small solenoid type sensor to follow the current
> path
>  > until the short is reached.
>  >
>  > Thanks,
>  >
>  > Alan
>
> Has it ever worked or is this a failure? Are you thinking incomplete
> etch or shorted bypass cap?
>
> G
>
> Thanks for the ideas. This is a high precision board that used to work.
> Ideally I'd like to have a thermal camera, so I like the idea of trying a
> digital camera in a dark room. Does it have to be a CCD? I'm not sure what
> my web cam is (cmos?), but at least the infrared filter is easy to remove
> and it doesn't have autofocus, so I can set it right with the lights on
> first.
> It's a multilayer board so tracing with an ohm meter seems like a bit of a
> non-starter as I have no idea where the tracks go, and because of it's
> precision I don't want to cover it in frost, although that's a great idea
> for another time.
> I've already repaired an area of board under an electrolytic that leaked.
> The board was carbonised all the way through, but I think I've fixed that..
> I've looked at all the tantalum capacitors I can see and they all seem ok..
>
> Alan

I've replaced lots of physically leaking 'lytics and where there is
one, there are usually more. If you don't initially see the 'puddle',
look for brown 'mist' around 'lytics. You might try powering it up and
see if you can read the Voltage variations around the board. You might
find a single cap that decided to be a wire. Tantalums are known to do
this and I replaced one (32 years old) just last week. Monolythic
ceramics fail this way sometimes too. Once in 40 years of doing this I
had a 'tytic that shorted out.


From: Fester Bestertester on
> and because of it's
> precision I don't want to cover it in frost...

If it were me, I'd want to fix it via any means possible and worry about
calibration later.