From: Samantha on
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it.

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks so much!!!


S.
From: D Yuniskis on
Samantha wrote:
> I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
> about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
> and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
> it.
>
> I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
> for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.
>
> There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
> sure.
>
> Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Most likely bad capacitors in the inverter (or the bulk
supply feeding it). There are a HUGE number of Dell variants
so you might be able to find a similar monitor with a different
set of "trailing letters" in the model number (I've never
bothered to sort out the presumed meaning of all these
variations)

Most of these cases snap together. A very small slotted
screwdriver and/or one of the "blanks" used to fill an
empty "card slot" in a PC is invaluable.

Find a seam between the front and rear halves of the
display's case. *Think* about how the two pieces
are probably fitted together (i.e., one fits inside/behind
the other). Then, slide your tool into the seam and
*gently* pry them apart.

You can usually slide the tool along the seam until you
can "feel" where the catches are located. Usually, there
is symmetry -- the catches on the left side are placed in the
same locations as those along the right edge; ditto for
top and bottom (within reason). Also, there tends to be symmetry
about the vertical and horizontal axes -- so, if there is a catch
1" down (from the top) the left side, there is probably one 1"
*up* (from the bottom) on that side.

Experiment along the bottom -- someplace where your mistakes
aren't as cosmetically visible. (remember, plastic deforms easily
so you can easily gouge it with your tool).

Good luck!
From: Samantha on
In article <hagrps$q89$1(a)aioe.org>,
D Yuniskis <not.going.to.be(a)seen.com> wrote:

> Samantha wrote:
> > I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
> > about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
> > and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
> > it.
> >
> > I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
> > for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.
> >
> > There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
> > sure.
> >
> > Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?
>
> Most likely bad capacitors in the inverter (or the bulk
> supply feeding it). There are a HUGE number of Dell variants
> so you might be able to find a similar monitor with a different
> set of "trailing letters" in the model number (I've never
> bothered to sort out the presumed meaning of all these
> variations)
>
> Most of these cases snap together. A very small slotted
> screwdriver and/or one of the "blanks" used to fill an
> empty "card slot" in a PC is invaluable.
>
> Find a seam between the front and rear halves of the
> display's case. *Think* about how the two pieces
> are probably fitted together (i.e., one fits inside/behind
> the other). Then, slide your tool into the seam and
> *gently* pry them apart.
>
> You can usually slide the tool along the seam until you
> can "feel" where the catches are located. Usually, there
> is symmetry -- the catches on the left side are placed in the
> same locations as those along the right edge; ditto for
> top and bottom (within reason). Also, there tends to be symmetry
> about the vertical and horizontal axes -- so, if there is a catch
> 1" down (from the top) the left side, there is probably one 1"
> *up* (from the bottom) on that side.
>
> Experiment along the bottom -- someplace where your mistakes
> aren't as cosmetically visible. (remember, plastic deforms easily
> so you can easily gouge it with your tool).
>
> Good luck!

Thanks, am fighting a really bad summer cold right now and am not really
up to messing with it.. But in the next day or so I will probably feel
well enough to take a crack at it...

Appreciated everyones input!
From: Jeff Liebermann on
On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 18:19:51 -0500, Samantha <samantha(a)comcast.net>
wrote:

>I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
>about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
>and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
>it.

The LCD backlighting inverter has died. Everything else is probably
just fine. The really tiny inverters are tricky to repair as a
shorted turn on the xformer will usually blow up all the switching
FET's. However, this one is big and easy to work on. I still suggest
replacement. Tear apart the monitor and get the part number off the
LCD inverter. Then search eBay and Google for a scrap replacement.
One of these looks right:
<http://www.lcdrepair.us/e152-e153fpc-inverter-power.html> $40.
<http://www.lcdrepair.us/e152-e153fpc-inverter-power-2.html> $30

>I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
>for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.
>
>There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
>sure.
>
>Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Bulging and leaking electrolytic caps are the most common problem.
Look at the board and you'll see about 8 electrolytic capacitors. If
they're even slighly bulging, they're bad. I'm lazy and replace them
all rather than trying to figure out which ones are blown. However,
with LCD inverters, the switching FET's are also commonly fried. If
replacing the caps doesn't work, I suggest just buying a replacement
board..

>Would greatly appreciate any help.

Ummm.... you've heard of Google perhaps?

<http://video.google.com/videosearch?hl=en&source=hp&q=lcd+monitor+repair#>
<http://www.lcd-monitor-repair.com>
Lots more when searching for "LCD monitor repair".

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl(a)cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
From: Jeff Liebermann on
On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 08:27:36 -0400, Meat Plow <meat(a)petitmorte.net>
wrote:

>Weakest link = inverters. Verify voltage source first, forget what
>they usually run but a guess would be around 20 vdc?

Now I know why we used to kill off a tech a year in the 2-way biz in
Smog Angeles during the 60's and 70's. They didn't know low from high
voltage. Duz the big fat insulation on the output leads offer a clue?

Try about 500-700VDC output.
<http://www.fonerbooks.com/test.htm>
The frequency range is also a problem. These bests run around
30-70Khz which is often beyond the upper frequency range of the
typical DVG (Digital-Volts-Guesser). I'm not sure if the high
frequency or the high voltage did the damage but I've killed at least
2 cheapo (Harbor Freight) DVM's measuring LCD inverter output. I've
also managed to get electrocuted several times, mostly due to haste,
sloppiness, clip leads, or all the aformentioned.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl(a)cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
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