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From: Samantha on 6 Oct 2009 19:19 I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to it. I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart. There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not sure. Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it? Would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks so much!!! S.
From: D Yuniskis on 6 Oct 2009 21:49 Samantha wrote: > I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after > about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on > and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to > it. > > I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in > for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart. > > There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not > sure. > > Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it? Most likely bad capacitors in the inverter (or the bulk supply feeding it). There are a HUGE number of Dell variants so you might be able to find a similar monitor with a different set of "trailing letters" in the model number (I've never bothered to sort out the presumed meaning of all these variations) Most of these cases snap together. A very small slotted screwdriver and/or one of the "blanks" used to fill an empty "card slot" in a PC is invaluable. Find a seam between the front and rear halves of the display's case. *Think* about how the two pieces are probably fitted together (i.e., one fits inside/behind the other). Then, slide your tool into the seam and *gently* pry them apart. You can usually slide the tool along the seam until you can "feel" where the catches are located. Usually, there is symmetry -- the catches on the left side are placed in the same locations as those along the right edge; ditto for top and bottom (within reason). Also, there tends to be symmetry about the vertical and horizontal axes -- so, if there is a catch 1" down (from the top) the left side, there is probably one 1" *up* (from the bottom) on that side. Experiment along the bottom -- someplace where your mistakes aren't as cosmetically visible. (remember, plastic deforms easily so you can easily gouge it with your tool). Good luck!
From: Samantha on 7 Oct 2009 18:28 In article <hagrps$q89$1(a)aioe.org>, D Yuniskis <not.going.to.be(a)seen.com> wrote: > Samantha wrote: > > I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after > > about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on > > and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to > > it. > > > > I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in > > for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart. > > > > There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not > > sure. > > > > Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it? > > Most likely bad capacitors in the inverter (or the bulk > supply feeding it). There are a HUGE number of Dell variants > so you might be able to find a similar monitor with a different > set of "trailing letters" in the model number (I've never > bothered to sort out the presumed meaning of all these > variations) > > Most of these cases snap together. A very small slotted > screwdriver and/or one of the "blanks" used to fill an > empty "card slot" in a PC is invaluable. > > Find a seam between the front and rear halves of the > display's case. *Think* about how the two pieces > are probably fitted together (i.e., one fits inside/behind > the other). Then, slide your tool into the seam and > *gently* pry them apart. > > You can usually slide the tool along the seam until you > can "feel" where the catches are located. Usually, there > is symmetry -- the catches on the left side are placed in the > same locations as those along the right edge; ditto for > top and bottom (within reason). Also, there tends to be symmetry > about the vertical and horizontal axes -- so, if there is a catch > 1" down (from the top) the left side, there is probably one 1" > *up* (from the bottom) on that side. > > Experiment along the bottom -- someplace where your mistakes > aren't as cosmetically visible. (remember, plastic deforms easily > so you can easily gouge it with your tool). > > Good luck! Thanks, am fighting a really bad summer cold right now and am not really up to messing with it.. But in the next day or so I will probably feel well enough to take a crack at it... Appreciated everyones input!
From: Jeff Liebermann on 7 Oct 2009 19:20 On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 18:19:51 -0500, Samantha <samantha(a)comcast.net> wrote: >I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after >about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on >and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to >it. The LCD backlighting inverter has died. Everything else is probably just fine. The really tiny inverters are tricky to repair as a shorted turn on the xformer will usually blow up all the switching FET's. However, this one is big and easy to work on. I still suggest replacement. Tear apart the monitor and get the part number off the LCD inverter. Then search eBay and Google for a scrap replacement. One of these looks right: <http://www.lcdrepair.us/e152-e153fpc-inverter-power.html> $40. <http://www.lcdrepair.us/e152-e153fpc-inverter-power-2.html> $30 >I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in >for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart. > >There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not >sure. > >Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it? Bulging and leaking electrolytic caps are the most common problem. Look at the board and you'll see about 8 electrolytic capacitors. If they're even slighly bulging, they're bad. I'm lazy and replace them all rather than trying to figure out which ones are blown. However, with LCD inverters, the switching FET's are also commonly fried. If replacing the caps doesn't work, I suggest just buying a replacement board.. >Would greatly appreciate any help. Ummm.... you've heard of Google perhaps? <http://video.google.com/videosearch?hl=en&source=hp&q=lcd+monitor+repair#> <http://www.lcd-monitor-repair.com> Lots more when searching for "LCD monitor repair". -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 # http://802.11junk.com jeffl(a)cruzio.com # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
From: Jeff Liebermann on 7 Oct 2009 19:26
On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 08:27:36 -0400, Meat Plow <meat(a)petitmorte.net> wrote: >Weakest link = inverters. Verify voltage source first, forget what >they usually run but a guess would be around 20 vdc? Now I know why we used to kill off a tech a year in the 2-way biz in Smog Angeles during the 60's and 70's. They didn't know low from high voltage. Duz the big fat insulation on the output leads offer a clue? Try about 500-700VDC output. <http://www.fonerbooks.com/test.htm> The frequency range is also a problem. These bests run around 30-70Khz which is often beyond the upper frequency range of the typical DVG (Digital-Volts-Guesser). I'm not sure if the high frequency or the high voltage did the damage but I've killed at least 2 cheapo (Harbor Freight) DVM's measuring LCD inverter output. I've also managed to get electrocuted several times, mostly due to haste, sloppiness, clip leads, or all the aformentioned. -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 # http://802.11junk.com jeffl(a)cruzio.com # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS |