From: Paul Furman on
Al Dykes wrote:
> In article <1gkhc5hsgi6fasjanur2a0ojc5v03thhrp(a)4ax.com>,
> John A. <john(a)nowhere.invalid> wrote:
>> On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 06:25:12 -0700 (PDT), Porte Rouge
>> <porterougeman(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I set my exposure to slide the histogram to the right, without clipping
>>> ( when I have time), to capture the most tonal levels . So, now when I
>>> am editing the photos they are over exposed(not clipped). A sunrise is
>>> a good example. The deep colors are washed out. The obvious fix(to me
>>> anyway) in Lightroom or CS4 is to reduce the exposure. Now my question
>>> is, by reducing exposure in post, am I just ending up in the same place
>>> (histogram to the left) as if I had just ignored the histogram when I
>>> was shooting and set the exposure to properly expose the image using
>>> my light meter? I guess in short I am asking if Lightroom or CS4 loses
>>> tonal values when you reduce exposure in editing.
>> You overexpose short of clipping, the apply a likewise (if preferred)
>> reverse adjustment in post. This is to maximize the signal-to-noise
>> and tonal gradations in the exposure.
>>
>> The tonal aspect is analogous to setting a digital multimeter to the
>> proper scale before taking a reading, in order to maximize the
>> significant digits.
>
>
> This blog article talks about making the best of exposing to the
> right.
>
> http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/right-hista.shtml

And the previous article linked from there explains how the significant
digits benefit works:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

--
Paul Furman
www.edgehill.net
www.baynatives.com

all google groups messages filtered due to spam
From: Doug McDonald on
Porte Rouge wrote:

>
> Do you have more to say about which way you set exposure and when?
> I am genuinely interested in how you decide to set exposure. At this
> point I actually use both, "expose to the right" and light meter, for
> the "fine art" shots. I can't see a difference, I was just curious in
> a CD versus vinyl sort of way.
>

It is experience, about when it matters to get the highlights just exactly
"right", which does as someone mentioned including correctly clipping the
ultra bright things like specular reflections and lamps.

I am mainly concerned with clouds in landscapes. Clipping
those can lead to really bad results at times.

When the going gets tough in such cases (landscapes) the Photoshop
Highlight/shadow tool is the critical one. But it takes practice.

Doug McDonald
From: Doug McDonald on
Porte Rouge wrote:

> Do you have more to say about which way you set exposure and when?


One more thing about histograms in the camera: at least in Canons,
they are made from the in-camera jpeg! This means that to make them
useful, you have to set the camera to make jpegs using "faithful"
mode, and contrast set to -3 or -4. Even so, it is only approximate.
You also need to use the "flashing overload" indicator on the
camera review screen. If you set contrast to 0 or more (remember, this is Canon)
and trust the histogram, you will still lose dynamic range.

Experience.

Doug McDonald
From: Porte Rouge on
On Oct 4, 1:52 pm, Doug McDonald
<mcdon...(a)scs.uiuc.edu.remove.invalid> wrote:
> Porte Rouge wrote:
> >    Do you have more to say about which way you set exposure and when?
>
> One more thing about histograms in the camera: at least in Canons,
> they are made from the in-camera jpeg!

Do you know if this is true of the Nikon D200?


This means that to make them
> useful, you have to set the camera to make jpegs using "faithful"
> mode,

I'm sorry, what is "faithful" mode?

and contrast set to -3 or -4. Even so, it is only approximate.
> You also need to use the "flashing overload" indicator on the
> camera review screen. If you set contrast to 0 or more (remember, this is Canon)
> and trust the histogram, you will still lose dynamic range.
>
> Experience.
>
> Doug McDonald

I use the flashing overload indicator, too. It sounds like I need
to do some test shots and see if clipped in the camera LCD is clipped
in ACR or Lightroom.
From: Porte Rouge on
On Oct 4, 1:10 pm, ady...(a)panix.com (Al Dykes) wrote:
> In article <1gkhc5hsgi6fasjanur2a0ojc5v03th...(a)4ax.com>,
> John A.  <j...(a)nowhere.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>
> >On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 06:25:12 -0700 (PDT), Porte Rouge
> ><porterouge...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>I set my exposure to slide the histogram to the right, without clipping
> >>( when I have time), to capture the most tonal levels . So, now when I
> >>am editing the photos they are over exposed(not clipped). A sunrise is
> >>a good example. The deep colors are washed out. The obvious fix(to me
> >>anyway) in Lightroom or CS4 is to reduce the exposure. Now my question
> >>is, by reducing exposure in post, am I just ending up in the same place
> >>(histogram to the left) as if I had just ignored the histogram when I
> >>was shooting and set the exposure to properly expose the image using
> >>my light meter? I guess in short I am asking if Lightroom or CS4 loses
> >>tonal values when you reduce exposure in editing.
>
> >You overexpose short of clipping, the apply a likewise (if preferred)
> >reverse adjustment in post. This is to maximize the signal-to-noise
> >and tonal gradations in the exposure.
>
> >The tonal aspect is analogous to setting a digital multimeter to the
> >proper scale before taking a reading, in order to maximize the
> >significant digits.
>
> This blog article talks about making the best of exposing to the
> right.
>
> http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/right-hista.shtml
> --
> Al Dykes
>  News is something someone wants to suppress, everything else is advertising.
>     - Lord Northcliffe, publisher of the Daily Mail

Wow, good stuff. I had to run out and get my camera and check the
settings. I don't understand what he says about the white balance. I
have it set on auto and have ignored it when shooting RAW. Should I
adjust it for each lighting condition when I shoot and this will give
me a truer histogram?

Porte