From: John Larkin on
On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 16:21:22 +0530, "pimpom" <pimpom(a)invalid.invalid>
wrote:

>This is for those of you who are making their own PCBs for hobby,
>prototyping and low-volume production.
>
>I've seen things like fine sandpaper and steelwool recommended on
>hobbyist websites for cleaning copper-clad boards prior to
>transferring the pattern and etching. 40 years ago, I used wood
>ash. It worked quite well but wasn't always readily available.
>Then I tried tooth powder as it's more abrasive than toothpaste.
>It sort of worked, but required too much scrubbing. Then I got
>the idea of using household scrubbing powder. It works fast,
>having just the right amount of abrasive property with no danger
>of inflicting deep scratches. Vim and Biz are two popular Indian
>brands.
>
>I feel no need to look for a better material, but I'm curious
>about what others are using.
>

Scotchbrite, with soapy water. When scotchbrite was first invented, it
was a very expensive industrial product and one of the first markets
was PCB fabbers. Years later it became a household product.

Use the green kind, the more agressive stuff, not the gentle version.

John


From: GregS on
In article <4b9f7898.13445590(a)News.Individual.NET>, bok118(a)zonnet.nl (Gerard Bok) wrote:
>On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 04:55:53 -0700, Archimedes' Lever
><OneBigLever(a)InfiniteSeries.Org> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 11:43:07 GMT, bok118(a)zonnet.nl (Gerard Bok) wrote:
>>
>>>On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 16:21:22 +0530, "pimpom"
>>><pimpom(a)invalid.invalid> wrote:
>>>
>>>>This is for those of you who are making their own PCBs for hobby,
>>>>prototyping and low-volume production.
>>>>
>>>>I've seen things like fine sandpaper and steelwool recommended on
>>>>hobbyist websites for cleaning copper-clad boards prior to
>>>>transferring the pattern and etching.
>>>
>>>>I feel no need to look for a better material, but I'm curious
>>>>about what others are using.
>>>
>>>It has been quite a while, but in the old days I used Seno
>>>Polyblock. That is (or was) a kind of big (matchbox sized) crayon
>>>eraser, specially made to clean Cu plating.
>>>http://www.hamers.de/en/electronics/print6.php
>>>shows a picture.
>>
>>
>> The acid is going to eat it off of ALL the unmasked areas and a little
>>tarnish wont stop it. I think abrasive scrubbing was overkill this whole
>>time.
>
>Acid ?

Tarn-X



>I use Polyblock to remove the photolayer.
>That is after the etching process :-)
>
From: GregS on
In article <hno7di$4j2$1(a)usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, zekfrivo(a)zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
>In article <4b9f7898.13445590(a)News.Individual.NET>, bok118(a)zonnet.nl (Gerard
> Bok) wrote:
>>On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 04:55:53 -0700, Archimedes' Lever
>><OneBigLever(a)InfiniteSeries.Org> wrote:
>>
>>>On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 11:43:07 GMT, bok118(a)zonnet.nl (Gerard Bok) wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 16:21:22 +0530, "pimpom"
>>>><pimpom(a)invalid.invalid> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>This is for those of you who are making their own PCBs for hobby,
>>>>>prototyping and low-volume production.
>>>>>
>>>>>I've seen things like fine sandpaper and steelwool recommended on
>>>>>hobbyist websites for cleaning copper-clad boards prior to
>>>>>transferring the pattern and etching.
>>>>
>>>>>I feel no need to look for a better material, but I'm curious
>>>>>about what others are using.
>>>>
>>>>It has been quite a while, but in the old days I used Seno
>>>>Polyblock. That is (or was) a kind of big (matchbox sized) crayon
>>>>eraser, specially made to clean Cu plating.
>>>>http://www.hamers.de/en/electronics/print6.php
>>>>shows a picture.
>>>
>>>
>>> The acid is going to eat it off of ALL the unmasked areas and a little
>>>tarnish wont stop it. I think abrasive scrubbing was overkill this whole
>>>time.
>>
>>Acid ?
>
>Tarn-X
>
>

That should also get rid of oils with a little aggitation.



>
>>I use Polyblock to remove the photolayer.
>>That is after the etching process :-)
>>
From: Jim Thompson on
On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 16:21:22 +0530, "pimpom" <pimpom(a)invalid.invalid>
wrote:

>This is for those of you who are making their own PCBs for hobby,
>prototyping and low-volume production.
>
>I've seen things like fine sandpaper and steelwool recommended on
>hobbyist websites for cleaning copper-clad boards prior to
>transferring the pattern and etching. 40 years ago, I used wood
>ash. It worked quite well but wasn't always readily available.
>Then I tried tooth powder as it's more abrasive than toothpaste.
>It sort of worked, but required too much scrubbing. Then I got
>the idea of using household scrubbing powder. It works fast,
>having just the right amount of abrasive property with no danger
>of inflicting deep scratches. Vim and Biz are two popular Indian
>brands.
>
>I feel no need to look for a better material, but I'm curious
>about what others are using.
>

There used to be a liquid cleaner for "Revere Ware", the copper
-bottom cooking pots. Use with a plastic or nylon scrubbing pad.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, CTO | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

The only thing bipartisan in this country is hypocrisy
From: Dave Platt on
>I've seen things like fine sandpaper and steelwool recommended on
>hobbyist websites for cleaning copper-clad boards prior to
>transferring the pattern and etching. 40 years ago, I used wood
>ash. It worked quite well but wasn't always readily available.
>Then I tried tooth powder as it's more abrasive than toothpaste.
>It sort of worked, but required too much scrubbing. Then I got
>the idea of using household scrubbing powder. It works fast,
>having just the right amount of abrasive property with no danger
>of inflicting deep scratches. Vim and Biz are two popular Indian
>brands.

I use a green nylon scrubbing pad (3M or generic equivalent) with
either some Comet household scrubbing powder (for fast cutting) or a
squirt of Gojo hand cleaner (an orange-scented gel which contains some
pumice).

On the last board I did, I scrubbed down the board in this way, rinsed
well, and then dipped it into the PC-board etchant solution for a few
seconds and then rinsed again. The brief dip in the etchant left the
copper surface with a very uniform matte appearance - I think it
evened out the larger scratches left by the pumice/cleanser.

The pattern ironed on quite well and etched nicely.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt(a)radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
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