Miniature soldering irons
in [Embedded]
|
Prev: Atmel ATmega128 - would you use it in a new design?
Next: New Microchip PIC18F K22 Family has only 20nA Sleep Current
From: Clive Murphy on 1 Jun 2010 18:02 I've been a long time fan of the Antex 'C' iron since I find it is just the right size for circuit board work but since the switch to lead free I've been finding it simply hasn't been getting hot enough. I figure now is the time I really need to upgrade to a proper soldering station. However I'm having difficulty finding a similar sized iron - that is a miniature one, but conversely not truly micro in size. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm based in the UK and spares (bits) availability is a consideration - that rules out Hakko since there are only one or two suppliers in the UK and they are mail order. Not like Antex that you can pick up anywhere.
From: Stef on 1 Jun 2010 18:26 In comp.arch.embedded, Clive Murphy <clivemurphy(a)rocketmail.com> wrote: > I've been a long time fan of the Antex 'C' iron since I find it is > just the right size for circuit board work but since the switch to > lead free I've been finding it simply hasn't been getting hot enough. > I figure now is the time I really need to upgrade to a proper > soldering station. However I'm having difficulty finding a similar > sized iron - that is a miniature one, but conversely not truly micro > in size. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm based in the UK and > spares (bits) availability is a consideration - that rules out Hakko > since there are only one or two suppliers in the UK and they are mail > order. Not like Antex that you can pick up anywhere. I'm hapy with my Weller WSD 81. Iron is pretty small, but not too tiny IMO, but I don't know you definition of 'miniature'. :-) -- Stef (remove caps, dashes and .invalid from e-mail address to reply by mail) If this is timesharing, give me my share right now.
From: Theo Markettos on 2 Jun 2010 08:43 Ade <spam(a)solutionengineers.com> wrote: > I bought one of these: > > http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1737234 > > OK, it doesn't necessarily match your definition of "readily available > everywhere", but OTOH it was cheap as chips, works fine, and Farnell > carry a full range of tips & replacement irons. And, IME, Farnell's mail > order response is supremely quick. Hmmm... that looks useful. Looking at the iron it looks very similar to a Weller TCP... (though it's hard to tell the scale). If it's a clone, I wonder if it takes the same bits? (and thus you could source Weller bits from wherever) Theo
From: Andrew Smallshaw on 2 Jun 2010 18:07 On 2010-06-01, Clive Murphy <clivemurphy(a)rocketmail.com> wrote: > I've been a long time fan of the Antex 'C' iron since I find it is > just the right size for circuit board work but since the switch to > lead free I've been finding it simply hasn't been getting hot enough. As a fellow C fan, don't totally discount it just yet. It may be a fixed temperature iron but you can boost the temperature in a couple of ways. Firstly, if it is fairly old it may date back to before mains voltage harmonisation. Mine was initially rated 15W @ 250V. I noticed a couple of years ago that a new element I was fitting was rated 15W @ 230V, and it did seem to run slightly hotter. Another option is with the bit fitted. The standard bit has a fairly wide shank around the element - there is a narrower shank alternative with the same size & shape soldering face. The lower mass does noticeably boost the temperature. Neither of these is going to have truly dramatic results but you may find it gets you where you need to be. There is also the Antex G - same size as the C but 18W. They are tricky to track down but bits are the same as the C series (although you can't use skinny shank ones). However, I've never even seen one so I don't know how it is regards soldering temperature. Finally, don't forget to consider the solder you are using. I bought a reel from Maplin a few years back that is absolutely awful stuff - it didn't flow at all and every joint with the C had that dull, underheated appearence. The stuff I use now from CPC (a Farnell subdivision) is a hell of a lot better, even though both are supposedly identical in composition. > I figure now is the time I really need to upgrade to a proper > soldering station. However I'm having difficulty finding a similar > sized iron - that is a miniature one, but conversely not truly micro > in size. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm based in the UK and > spares (bits) availability is a consideration - that rules out Hakko > since there are only one or two suppliers in the UK and they are mail > order. Not like Antex that you can pick up anywhere. I'm as interested as you are. I've looked at a few Weller units - it's difficult to tell from catalogue illustrations but the WSP80 appears roughly the same size the C. The WP80 seems even smaller, however since I already own a 690SD I don't think I can justify buying either. Somebody's already linked to a Duratool station which are much cheaper but if I was goign that route I'd probably go for this one: http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00673/soldering-station-60w/dp/SD01385?Ntt=sd01385 which seems "inspired" by the WSP80. -- Andrew Smallshaw andrews(a)sdf.lonestar.org
From: Theo Markettos on 2 Jun 2010 18:27
Ade <spam(a)solutionengineers.com> wrote: > If it's helpful, the iron is a shade under 8" from tip to end of handle, > the element end is about 3" from tip to back plate. > > Replacement tips are about 2.5" long in total, most of which is ceramic- > coated, with just the business end being uncovered metal. I bought a set > of them when I bought my kit. Thanks. What are the dimensions of the tip when taken out of the iron? My TCP tip is 5mm in diameter at the end that goes into the iron, and that part is 17mm long. After that there's a 3mm long x 6mm dia ridge (to stop the tip falling out of the iron's screw-on outer), and then the tip itself. The whole thing is 37mm long, so about 1.5". Those dimensions are for a PT-AA 7: http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/192170.pdf After a bit further Googling, I've just realised how the Weller 'temperature controlled' irons work... you change the bit to set the temperature. It works by the base of the bit having a material chosen with a specific Curie temperature - when at that temperature it becomes non-magnetic and flips a switch to cut the power. Very clever (and cheap), though you need quite a number of bits to have a good temperature range. > Also, if aesthetics are important, my unit is a mid-grey colour, not the > sky blue that's depicted on the website... It doesn't have an auto-off > function, just the digital temperature control. If auto-off is required, it can always be bodged up with a timer on the mains plug. Can't complain for the price. Theo |