From: ladybug on

Tech Data wrote:

>
> Then you need to backtrack to the flyback. You have an open current
> limiter, probably a 1.2 ohm 1/2 watt. And yes, if it's an LA7838 pin 8
> is your primary VCC and should be 28 volts or so.
>
> www.techdata-kicksass.net


You're right R558 reads open. Why did it burn and where can I get a
replacement?

From: Leonard Caillouet on
Now look over to the left of the board as you see it from behind and find
the leaky caps around the heat sink near the front of the board. There will
be several, perhaps about 10. There are two that will be on the vertical
board with the regulator. If you don't get them , and the rest of the leaky
caps on the main board, you will be doing this again soon. Check ALL of the
black colored polar electrolytics made by rubycon, nichicon, or sme.

Leonard

"ladybug" <natayz(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1156281545.873549.41820(a)h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Also trace from c458 to pin 9 was corroded and read open. I got that
> taken care off.
>

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From: ladybug on

Leonard Caillouet wrote:
> Now look over to the left of the board as you see it from behind and find
> the leaky caps around the heat sink near the front of the board. There will
> be several, perhaps about 10. There are two that will be on the vertical
> board with the regulator. If you don't get them , and the rest of the leaky
> caps on the main board, you will be doing this again soon. Check ALL of the
> black colored polar electrolytics made by rubycon, nichicon, or sme.
>
> Leonard
>

There are plenty of leaking caps on the front left of the board where
you said but I don't see any vertical board with the regulator. Where
is it? I'm also out of replacement caps and need to buy a bunch for
this repair. Can you recommend a place to buy and preferable type/brand
of electrolytic caps? I also need a 1.2 ohm current limiter

From: Leonard Caillouet on
I may be thinking of another set. I buy most of my caps from Tritronics
which is good if you are on the east coast. There are lots of similar
distributors all over. Get 105 degree caps. They don't stock 35V caps,
just use 50V instead. None of these will matter.

Leonard

"ladybug" <natayz(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1156294367.739998.227590(a)m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...
>
> Leonard Caillouet wrote:
>> Now look over to the left of the board as you see it from behind and find
>> the leaky caps around the heat sink near the front of the board. There
>> will
>> be several, perhaps about 10. There are two that will be on the vertical
>> board with the regulator. If you don't get them , and the rest of the
>> leaky
>> caps on the main board, you will be doing this again soon. Check ALL of
>> the
>> black colored polar electrolytics made by rubycon, nichicon, or sme.
>>
>> Leonard
>>
>
> There are plenty of leaking caps on the front left of the board where
> you said but I don't see any vertical board with the regulator. Where
> is it? I'm also out of replacement caps and need to buy a bunch for
> this repair. Can you recommend a place to buy and preferable type/brand
> of electrolytic caps? I also need a 1.2 ohm current limiter
>

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From: ladybug on
Looks like almost all the caps that I have made by rubycon. I'll try to
replace most of them. How can I get off the board leaked acid? Do I
need to replace caps on the tube board? None of tube caps seems to be
leaking. What is the correct part for 1.2 ohm current limiter?