From: ladybug on 22 Aug 2006 17:31 Tech Data wrote: > > Then you need to backtrack to the flyback. You have an open current > limiter, probably a 1.2 ohm 1/2 watt. And yes, if it's an LA7838 pin 8 > is your primary VCC and should be 28 volts or so. > > www.techdata-kicksass.net You're right R558 reads open. Why did it burn and where can I get a replacement?
From: Leonard Caillouet on 22 Aug 2006 20:11 Now look over to the left of the board as you see it from behind and find the leaky caps around the heat sink near the front of the board. There will be several, perhaps about 10. There are two that will be on the vertical board with the regulator. If you don't get them , and the rest of the leaky caps on the main board, you will be doing this again soon. Check ALL of the black colored polar electrolytics made by rubycon, nichicon, or sme. Leonard "ladybug" <natayz(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:1156281545.873549.41820(a)h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > Also trace from c458 to pin 9 was corroded and read open. I got that > taken care off. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 2245 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now!
From: ladybug on 22 Aug 2006 20:52 Leonard Caillouet wrote: > Now look over to the left of the board as you see it from behind and find > the leaky caps around the heat sink near the front of the board. There will > be several, perhaps about 10. There are two that will be on the vertical > board with the regulator. If you don't get them , and the rest of the leaky > caps on the main board, you will be doing this again soon. Check ALL of the > black colored polar electrolytics made by rubycon, nichicon, or sme. > > Leonard > There are plenty of leaking caps on the front left of the board where you said but I don't see any vertical board with the regulator. Where is it? I'm also out of replacement caps and need to buy a bunch for this repair. Can you recommend a place to buy and preferable type/brand of electrolytic caps? I also need a 1.2 ohm current limiter
From: Leonard Caillouet on 22 Aug 2006 21:02 I may be thinking of another set. I buy most of my caps from Tritronics which is good if you are on the east coast. There are lots of similar distributors all over. Get 105 degree caps. They don't stock 35V caps, just use 50V instead. None of these will matter. Leonard "ladybug" <natayz(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:1156294367.739998.227590(a)m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com... > > Leonard Caillouet wrote: >> Now look over to the left of the board as you see it from behind and find >> the leaky caps around the heat sink near the front of the board. There >> will >> be several, perhaps about 10. There are two that will be on the vertical >> board with the regulator. If you don't get them , and the rest of the >> leaky >> caps on the main board, you will be doing this again soon. Check ALL of >> the >> black colored polar electrolytics made by rubycon, nichicon, or sme. >> >> Leonard >> > > There are plenty of leaking caps on the front left of the board where > you said but I don't see any vertical board with the regulator. Where > is it? I'm also out of replacement caps and need to buy a bunch for > this repair. Can you recommend a place to buy and preferable type/brand > of electrolytic caps? I also need a 1.2 ohm current limiter > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 2249 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now!
From: ladybug on 22 Aug 2006 21:19
Looks like almost all the caps that I have made by rubycon. I'll try to replace most of them. How can I get off the board leaked acid? Do I need to replace caps on the tube board? None of tube caps seems to be leaking. What is the correct part for 1.2 ohm current limiter? |