From: PatD on 12 Feb 2006 15:21 First, I did search the group and did not find the specific info I need. I was given an older Maytag 1/3 hp 1725 rpm washing machine motor and need help with the wiring to retask it for other use. The wiring block on the end of the motor is set up with six connectors, 4 ganged with 1 internal and 1 external wire, 2 with single wires. It looks as follows, (E) indicates external wire connected to house current (115v) / maybe a capacitor? the other color is internal wiring: 1 Blue / Red (E) 2 Green (E) 3 Black 4 Yellow / White (E) 5 Red / Yellow (E) 6 Orange / Black (E) 2 is connected to 3 via the centrifugal switch, I disassembled it to verify. Obviously the start winding. This shows a resistance of .4, probably need to clean my meters connections. Other values follow. 1 - 4 2 ohms 1 - 6 2 ohms 2 - 3 .4 ohm 3 - 5 3.6 ohms 4 - 6 .4 ohm Any assistance in wiring / testing this would be appreciated. TIA
From: hrhofmann on 13 Feb 2006 00:36 It would help if you would give us any/all info on the nameplate. That would help to determine if it is a capacitor start motor or not. H. R.(Bob) Hofmann
From: PatD on 13 Feb 2006 09:43 Thanks for responding. The information found in two places on the motor is: JT Maytag 1725rpm Thermally Protected 1/3hp 115v 60~ 6.4amp 40C Amb PCB131A 5KH41ET22S 2-1664-8 E25382 LR22286 CodeR 236M I did Google all the numbers with maytag in the search and came up with nothing related.
From: hrhofmann on 13 Feb 2006 15:31 I just checked the spare washing machine motor that I have from a Maytag-related washing machine. It is an Emerson unit, and a two-speed. I have the wiring info. If you e-mail me with your e-mail address I will send you a jpeg file of a scan of the wiring diagram. I would hook the motor up in the most likely manner after you get the wiring drawing, and then clip lead it to the 120V power line through a regular electric iron like your wife used to use to press creases into clothing, The iron will have very low resistance for the first few seconds and the motor will get almost full power, and if it is under no load will start easily enough. If you are wrong, the iron will heat up and the motor will not burn out for a short connection time. If you let the iron cool off for a couple of minutes while you try a different connection, you can repeat it until you guess right. Also, if you have an appliance repair center available, you might be able to take the motor with you and get there early before the guys go out on their daily rounds, and see if any of them can help you. Most guys are ok with this as long as they know you are just wanting to reuse the motor, and not to use it for repairs that would hurt heir livelihood. I have kept my 50 year-old furnace blower going with two old washing machine motors. Each of the washing machine motors has lasted much longer than the original motor that came with the furnace. I have the extra motor now in case the second relacement dies. It has been going strong for 20+ years, I may be blowing on borrowed time, but won't change it out until I hear strange noises. H. R. (Bob) Hofmann hrhofmann(a)att.net
From: James Sweet on 14 Feb 2006 01:59 > > I have kept my 50 year-old furnace blower going with two old washing > machine motors. Each of the washing machine motors has lasted much > longer than the original motor that came with the furnace. I have the > extra motor now in case the second relacement dies. It has been going > strong for 20+ years, I may be blowing on borrowed time, but won't > change it out until I hear strange noises. > H. R. (Bob) Hofmann hrhofmann(a)att.net > That's pretty impressive lifespan. I have to wonder how much more you spend on gas running a 50 year old furnace though, or is it electric? Most furnaces even as old as the mid 70's were 70% efficient or less, a modern 90+ unit can pay for itself in just a couple seasons with what natural gas goes for now.
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