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From: Darrell A. Larose on 21 Jan 2010 11:03

"Peabody" <waybackNO746SPAM44(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:00d43cbd$0$17037$c3e8da3(a)news.astraweb.com...
> I'm pretty nearsighted, and my glasses are "no-line" progressives.
> I was at the store looking at cameras, and found that with my
> glasses off, none of the cameras' eyepiece diopter adjustment knobs
> went far enough minus to get me in focus.
>
> But with my glasses on, I'm kinda far away from the eyepiece, and
> after the best knob adjustment it still didn't look all that great,
> maybe because the glasses are progressive, which means the
> correction varies continuously from top to bottom.
>
> So I see that Amazon has "dioptric adjustment" lenses for $17, but
> it's not clear whether this is an additional lens that goes in front
> of the eyepiece, or a replacement for the existing eyepiece.
>
> Apparently the adjustment lens also requires something called a
> "rubber frame", but I can't tell if that's already on the camera, or
> has to be ordered as well.
>
The camera viewfinder is set so the ground glass image appears at 1 metre
(39.37') That is the first factor to consider. So many will just use their
distance glasses with the camera, I don't have progressives (yet) so I look
over my glasses to see close, like camera controls. But to your question,
dioptres lenses are just like your eyeglasses, my right (shoting eye)
is -6.25 that is well beyond the range of my eyepiece adjustment (-3 to +1).
Now some cameras the eyepiece behaves like a -1 so with nikon if you need -3
then a -2 is bought. Some makers listed the correction based on what it gave
on the camera. So at one time a Nikon -1 was different off the camera than a
Minolta -1. This was a bigger issue in the pre built-in correction days...
It helps to try different strengths on your camera, as the marked value may
be affected by the viewfinder optics. The other old issue (pre built-in
correction days) was You needed a -3.5, you had to settle for a -3, now you
can tweak it with the built-in adjustment.

You will need the rubber frame (sold seperately) to use the correction lens.



From: BB on 21 Jan 2010 11:05
I also wear progressive bifocals and have the same issues. The problem with
trying to eliminate using glasses with the camera is the LCD screen on
digital cameras. Even if you find an appropriate diopter lens to allow you
to see clearly through the viewfinder without glasses, you will find that
you'll be constantly taking your glasses on and off as you go from looking
through the viewfinder to looking at the LCD screen, if like me you have
presbyopia (can't see up close) as well as nearsightedness (needing
correction for seeing in the distance). The information in the viewfinder
is typically at an apparent distance of a few feet while the LCD is only a
few inches away which requires different focal adjustments when going from
one to the other. Add in any degree of astigmatism and it gets even worse
since it's very difficult to find a diopter adapter that provides correction
for astigmatism. (You can have a special lens made by an optician but I
imagine it would be expensive.)

I've just given up and always wear my glasses when shooting. You get used
to it after a while and subconsciously learn where to position your eye with
respect to the viewfinder so that you get the best view. By the way,
switching from portrait to landscape orientation alters the required eye
position so you have to learn to adjust to it separately for both.


"Peabody" <waybackNO746SPAM44(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:00d43cbd$0$17037$c3e8da3(a)news.astraweb.com...
> I'm pretty nearsighted, and my glasses are "no-line" progressives.
> I was at the store looking at cameras, and found that with my
> glasses off, none of the cameras' eyepiece diopter adjustment knobs
> went far enough minus to get me in focus.
>
> But with my glasses on, I'm kinda far away from the eyepiece, and
> after the best knob adjustment it still didn't look all that great,
> maybe because the glasses are progressive, which means the
> correction varies continuously from top to bottom.
>
> So I see that Amazon has "dioptric adjustment" lenses for $17, but
> it's not clear whether this is an additional lens that goes in front
> of the eyepiece, or a replacement for the existing eyepiece.
>
> Apparently the adjustment lens also requires something called a
> "rubber frame", but I can't tell if that's already on the camera, or
> has to be ordered as well.
>
> I've been looking at the XSi, and maybe a used XTi.
>
> Can someone who has been down this road share some information and
> wisdom with me? Also, do most people who seriously need glasses
> just shoot with their glasses on?
>



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