PCB toner transfer etchants
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From: Jamie on 22 Feb 2010 22:48 Darren Brumfield wrote: > I've been reading up on this and the consensus is that ferric chloride > is the most common compound to do the actual "etching". Is there some > sort of more widely available chemical that will get the job done? > Something I could find at the local walmart? For my needs it doesn't > have to be fast (a couple of hours is fine). > > --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news(a)netfront.net --- get yourself an etching tank that as a air pump and warmer.. You can etch in a very short time and get more life out of you chems.. Tank kits range from 30..50 bucks. You won't get this kit from Radio shaft.. Look around , may places sell them... http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p56.htm scroll back a page to see other supplies etc..
From: Michael Black on 22 Feb 2010 23:21 On Mon, 22 Feb 2010, Jamie wrote: > Darren Brumfield wrote: >> I've been reading up on this and the consensus is that ferric chloride is >> the most common compound to do the actual "etching". Is there some sort >> of more widely available chemical that will get the job done? Something I >> could find at the local walmart? For my needs it doesn't have to be fast >> (a couple of hours is fine). >> >> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news(a)netfront.net --- > get yourself an etching tank that as a air pump and warmer.. You can > etch in a very short time and get more life out of you chems.. > > Tank kits range from 30..50 bucks. > > You won't get this kit from Radio shaft.. > You don't need to buy something, you can make something. Heat the ferric chloride during the etching, there are multiple ways including a hot plate or a heat lamp or an aquarium heater, or at the very least preheat it before etching. Lots of ways to agitate. An aerator from an aquarium store, hook up a motor to agitate the container with the board and etchant, I'm sure there are other schemes suggested over the years. The magazines were full of suggestions along these lines. Michael
From: Rich Webb on 23 Feb 2010 07:56 On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 23:21:23 -0500, Michael Black <et472(a)ncf.ca> wrote: >On Mon, 22 Feb 2010, Jamie wrote: > >> Darren Brumfield wrote: >>> I've been reading up on this and the consensus is that ferric chloride is >>> the most common compound to do the actual "etching". Is there some sort >>> of more widely available chemical that will get the job done? Something I >>> could find at the local walmart? For my needs it doesn't have to be fast >>> (a couple of hours is fine). >>> >>> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news(a)netfront.net --- >> get yourself an etching tank that as a air pump and warmer.. You can >> etch in a very short time and get more life out of you chems.. >> >> Tank kits range from 30..50 bucks. >> >> You won't get this kit from Radio shaft.. >> >You don't need to buy something, you can make something. > >Heat the ferric chloride during the etching, there are multiple ways >including a hot plate or a heat lamp or an aquarium heater, or at the very >least preheat it before etching. Microwave oven. Don't let it boil over, though! >Lots of ways to agitate. An aerator from an aquarium store, hook up a >motor to agitate the container with the board and etchant, I'm sure there >are other schemes suggested over the years. Nitrile gloves ("kitchen" gloves or even the old hand-in-a-plastic-bag trick) and a paper towel. *Gently* rub the surface that's being etched. Let the etchant do the work; the idea is just to wipe away the layer that has already reacted. -- Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
From: Robert Roland on 23 Feb 2010 08:25 On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 07:56:48 -0500, Rich Webb <bbew.ar(a)mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote: >the idea is just to wipe away the layer >that has already reacted. I agree. I use a baking brush to gently swipe the board. The brush is all plastic, so it won't dissolve in the acid. The difference between this method and just sploshing the acid around is incredible. I use some 20 year old ferric cloride, and I can etch a board in less than ten minutes. I also seems to help get a more even etching, and therefore reduce the amount of etching under the mask. Why it works? Here's an experiment: Take your dirty car, spray on some soap and then hose it off with water. Clean? Nope! Now, try it again, this time gently rubbing it with a soft sponge after you apply soap. Notice the difference! -- RoRo
From: Hammy on 23 Feb 2010 08:33
On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 22:48:43 -0500, Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_(a)charter.net> wrote: >Darren Brumfield wrote: >> I've been reading up on this and the consensus is that ferric chloride >> is the most common compound to do the actual "etching". Is there some >> sort of more widely available chemical that will get the job done? >> Something I could find at the local walmart? For my needs it doesn't >> have to be fast (a couple of hours is fine). >> >> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news(a)netfront.net --- >get yourself an etching tank that as a air pump and warmer.. You can >etch in a very short time and get more life out of you chems.. > > Tank kits range from 30..50 bucks. > > You won't get this kit from Radio shaft.. > > Look around , may places sell them... > >http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p56.htm > > scroll back a page to see other supplies >etc.. All I use is a Tupperware container about an inch depth of Ferric Chloride. I put hot tap water in an aluminum lasagne tray. I then just immerse the Tupperware container with the ferric in the hot water and swish back and forth. I do this outside in my garage it usually takes all of ten minutes or less. All of that stuff can be picked up at dollarama at a buck each including rubber gloves with the exception of ferric. So the total cost is 3 bucks plus 11 bucks for a 1l of ferric which will do a lot of boards. |