From: Eeyore on


Andy Hart wrote:

> Gareth Magennis writes
> > Andy Hart wrote:
> >
> >> The speaker is rated at 700w, I don't think this is excessive as the
> >> rule of thumb is amp power double speaker power (for head room)
> >
> >No it isn't, its rated 350W RMS.
> >
> >
> >http://www.harmony-central.com/Events/WNAMM99/Peavey/SP-Subcompact-18.html
>
> Yes, the above (and the manual) states ...
>
> "Power Handling: 350 W continuous, 700 W program, 1,400 W peak"

The 'peak' rating is entirely spurious marketing gobbledegook. It serves no real
purpose other than a method to print a big number.


> Is 850w too powerful for this spec?

It's more than 700 isn't it ?


> If so I'm quite happy to learn my lesson and move on, but this
> configuration has been working well for the past 5 years, this is the
> part that confuses me.

Yes, you can even use a 10W speaker with a 1000W ampliifer as long as you don't
'turn it up too loud'. The same applies here. It's ENTIRELY down to how you use
it.

Graham

From: Gareth Magennis on

"Andy Hart" <news(a)ANDYHART.terra.es> wrote in message
news:1VOHmRBiuxpGFw96(a)freeuk.com...
> In message <CICdnTuKCK_CiTrbRVnyggA(a)bt.com>, Gareth Magennis
> <sound.service(a)btconnect.com> writes
>>>>That may well be your perception but the evidence points to the
>>>>contrary.
>>>>Speakers get dark coils and blistered formers because too much power has
>>>>been shoved into it.
>>>
>>> Yep, sounds reasonable
>>>
>>>> How many ohms was the basket
>>>
>>> 8 ohms
>>>
>>>> and were you driving it
>>>>Bridged?
>>>
>>> Yes, the same as I've always done, the manual states ...
>>>
>>> 8 ohms (Bridge mode, mono) 850 W RMS
>>>
>>> The speaker is rated at 700w, I don't think this is excessive as the
>>> rule of thumb is amp power double speaker power (for head room)
>>>
>>
>>
>>No it isn't, its rated 350W RMS.
>>
>>
>>http://www.harmony-central.com/Events/WNAMM99/Peavey/SP-Subcompact-18.html
>
> Yes, the above (and the manual) states ...
>
> "Power Handling: 350 W continuous, 700 W program, 1,400 W peak"
>
> Is 850w too powerful for this spec?
>
> If so I'm quite happy to learn my lesson and move on, but this
> configuration has been working well for the past 5 years, this is the part
> that confuses me.
> --
> Regards
> Andy Hart


Forget speaker ratings that say Program, Peak, Peak Music Power, Plucked Out
of Thin Air Power, or anything that isn't RMS. It's probably safe to assume
the 18 inch driver here is actually 350 Watts RMS. 850 Watts will easily
kill it if you allow that to happen.

Have you had exactly the same configuration for 5 years with regards the
rest of your speakers/amplifiers? If you now have more SPL from these you
will require more Sub to make things sound the same as they always have.
Maybe you've turned up your sub without realising it.

The problem here is that you may not notice the sub being overdriven or
compressing. With all due respect, a more seasoned Pro will hear when
things are getting too hot and back off and protect his gear, and won't so
much be relying on figures. I suspect you may now start to learn to do the
same.



Gareth.



From: Andy Hart on
In message <NtqdnQkLmdesvjrbnZ2dnUVZ8tqinZ2d(a)bt.com>, Gareth Magennis
<sound.service(a)btconnect.com> writes
>
>Forget speaker ratings that say Program, Peak, Peak Music Power, Plucked Out
>of Thin Air Power, or anything that isn't RMS. It's probably safe to assume
>the 18 inch driver here is actually 350 Watts RMS. 850 Watts will easily
>kill it if you allow that to happen.
>
>Have you had exactly the same configuration for 5 years with regards the
>rest of your speakers/amplifiers?

As I said in an earlier post, my PV1.3k went "DC" and blew the top
speakers, I replaced the speakers with OEM units and replaced the amp
with a Behringer EP2500.

I've also replaced the crossover with one made by the top cab
manufacturer, I used to crossover at 120 but the new unit is fixed at
200, maybe this could be the problem, more going through the subs ...

> If you now have more SPL from these you
>will require more Sub to make things sound the same as they always have.
>Maybe you've turned up your sub without realising it.
>
>The problem here is that you may not notice the sub being overdriven or
>compressing.

Normally I would be listening to the system all the time, unfortunately,
for this test run I left the system unattended for 30 mins, stupid ...

> With all due respect, a more seasoned Pro will hear when
>things are getting too hot and back off and protect his gear, and won't so
>much be relying on figures.

Yes

> I suspect you may now start to learn to do the
>same.

Yes
--
Regards
Andy Hart
From: Eeyore on


Andy Hart wrote:

> I've also replaced the crossover with one made by the top cab
> manufacturer, I used to crossover at 120 but the new unit is fixed at
> 200, maybe this could be the problem, more going through the subs ...

I suggest you learn about active crossovers.

Graham

From: Phildo on

"Ron(UK)" <ron(a)lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:7badnX0GJra1jDrbnZ2dnUVZ8tXinZ2d(a)bt.com...
> I bought some Studiospares di boxes a while back, out of four boxes, three
> of them had intermittent dry joint problems out of the boxes, the forth
> one looked as tho it had been reworked already!

Three out of the 4 studiospares DI boxes I used last year had the XLR socket
go on them. Just came loose and fell in to the box.

Phildo