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From: N_Cook on 30 Jul 2010 03:26
Ian P <elanman99(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8bdrqrF2baU1(a)mid.individual.net...
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse(a)tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:i2s5e6$b1d$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
> > Ian P <elanman99(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:8bdgspFuetU1(a)mid.individual.net...
> >> In the course of doing some modifications to a very expensive Sony 3
chip
> > HD
> >> camcorder I have accidentally cut through 3 tracks on the edge of a
> >> mylar?
> >> flexible cable. On the good side the damage is very accessible but the
> >> bad
> >> bit is the tracks are only 0.1mm wide on a 0.2mm pitch! Ideally one
would
> >> just replace the flex pcb but in practice that would involve
dismantling
> > the
> >> camera and lens to get to all the places the pcb branches out to, and
in
> >> some places it actually goes into the lens mechanism itself.
> >>
> >> I am considering abrading off the top mylar coating to expose the
copper
> >> then bridging the breaks with some very narrow pitch zebra strip. My
> >> other
> >> idea is to make my own miniature insulation displacement/piercing
> > connector
> >> using a stack of razor blade bits sandwiched with insulation layers.
> >>
> >> The last option would be to use wire links and solder but I think this
> > could
> >> only be done with some sort of mechanical micropositioning rig in view
of
> >> the small sizes involved.
> >>
> >> I would be interested to hear any thoughts or experiences if anyone has
> > any.
> >>
> >> Cheers
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Ian
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > Assuming you're not in a stripline-type situation with ground plane/rf
> > considerations, try plaiting some magnet wire and soldering to the 3 pcb
> > solder points at either end of the plaited section of "ribbon", you may
> > have to make a hole through the pcb though.
> >
>
> Its just low level analogue signals but the break is close to the end of
the
> ribbon where the tracks are gold plated to fit in the board connector. The
> copper conductors are encapsulated in the Mylar and drilling through the
> track which is only 0.004" wide would not be easy!
>
> Ian
>
>


No, making hole/s through the pcb, to take the plait, so you can make proper
solder joins to pre-existing solder joints on the ribbon sockets


From: N_Cook on 30 Jul 2010 04:07
Ian P <elanman99(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8bdrgeFvrtU1(a)mid.individual.net...
>
> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.07.29.14.56.20(a)hahahahahahahah.nutz...
> > On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:47:37 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> >
> >> This is "not unlike" fixing a PCB trace. How would you do that?
> >>
> >> What about globbing some eutectic solder over the traces (even though
it
> >> shorts them), then using "something" to break the solder into
individual
> >> "strands" while it's still liquid?
> >>
> >> I'm wondering whether zebra strip would be conductive enough? It might
> >> not matter over such a short (ar, ar) distance.
> >>
> >> I wish you success. And if this happened this morning, please put it
> >> aside and relax. Work on something else, something easy, and try to
> >> forget about this problem for the time being.
> >
> > Flexible pcb connector as in a ribbon connector? I've had some limited
> > success repairing these with conductive paint designed to repair
> > automotive window heaters.
>
> Its a paper thin flexible pcb, golden brown in colour which I think is
made
> from Mylar. Because of the narrowness of the tracks and their spacing I
> doubt it could be done with paint.
>
> Ian
>
>


If heat resistant then probably kapton tape. If signal levels and you have a
fairy godmother then anisotropic tape is another possibility , if you can
bare back to the underlying condusctors .


From: Smitty Two on 30 Jul 2010 11:31
In article <8bfn0bF2vrU1(a)mid.individual.net>,
"Ian P" <elanman99(a)yahoo.com> wrote:

> I'm leaning towards fine wire soldered jumpers across the breaks.

I wouldn't hesitate to do this, but I'd not attempt it whatsoever
without a microscope. Can you borrow one?
From: Ian P on 30 Jul 2010 16:38

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich(a)earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-F9ADB5.08312430072010(a)mx01.eternal-september.org...
> In article <8bfn0bF2vrU1(a)mid.individual.net>,
> "Ian P" <elanman99(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm leaning towards fine wire soldered jumpers across the breaks.
>
> I wouldn't hesitate to do this, but I'd not attempt it whatsoever
> without a microscope. Can you borrow one?

Unfortunately I don't have anything other than strong magnifying glasses and
I cannot think of anyone or anywhere I could borrow one from.

In the past I have tried soldering etc whilst looking through a magnifying
glass but have struggled because of only really looking through one eye so
really stereo magnification is what I need.

Ian


From: bz on 30 Jul 2010 21:03
"Ian P" <elanman99(a)yahoo.com> wrote in
news:8bgri8FvlmU1(a)mid.individual.net:

>
> "Smitty Two" <prestwhich(a)earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:prestwhich-F9ADB5.08312430072010(a)mx01.eternal-september.org...
>> In article <8bfn0bF2vrU1(a)mid.individual.net>,
>> "Ian P" <elanman99(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm leaning towards fine wire soldered jumpers across the breaks.
>>
>> I wouldn't hesitate to do this, but I'd not attempt it whatsoever
>> without a microscope. Can you borrow one?
>
> Unfortunately I don't have anything other than strong magnifying glasses
> and I cannot think of anyone or anywhere I could borrow one from.
>
> In the past I have tried soldering etc whilst looking through a
> magnifying glass but have struggled because of only really looking
> through one eye so really stereo magnification is what I need.

Do you have a video camera that can do closeups?
Can you work while watching what you are doing via a monitor?

If you have a piece of similar cable that you can glue along side the cut
one, you might be able to use straight pins to pierce both conductors
simultaneously and then turn the pins into 'rivets' permanently connecting
the broken conductors through the 'bridging' conductor.
Stagger the 'rivets' so they don't short to each other.

You may be able to get some very thin diameter straight pins such as used
for mounting butterflies or from a hobby store, used as nails, etc on small
models. Perhaps even with a copper coating, so that you could touch them
with a bit of solder to 'make things permanent'.

Try it first on some pieces of similar flex from the trash/junk box.

Stagger the pins to give more room to work.

Good luck!

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