From: Ivan on
I have a Nikon Coolscan V ED with the IA-20 (S) adapter for APS
films. It scans 25-exposure rolls, but when I try a 40-exposure one,
it rejects it, with an error message that it is "either too short or
too long."

Is this a built-in limitation? If not, how do I scan these films?
From: Barry Watzman on
I was under the impression that you should have been able to have
scanned that roll. I service these units. I have seen posts which say
that the original IA-20 could only scan shorter rolls, but that the
IA-20(S) could scan the longer rolls. Honestly, my impression (I have
taken these units apart) has been that the IA-20 and IA-20(S) are
identical except for the color of the plastic (the (S) models of the
SF-200, IA-20 and MA-20 are molded in "silver" (gray) plastic instead of
beige).

But, in any case, you HAVE the IA-20(S) model, which is supposed to be
the model that CAN do the longer rolls. So, honestly, I don't know.
I'd tell you to call Nikon, but from what I've seen, your chances of
getting a straight and correct answer from them are not all that good.


Ivan wrote:
> I have a Nikon Coolscan V ED with the IA-20 (S) adapter for APS
> films. It scans 25-exposure rolls, but when I try a 40-exposure one,
> it rejects it, with an error message that it is "either too short or
> too long."
>
> Is this a built-in limitation? If not, how do I scan these films?
From: AndyCBR on
On Jan 23, 6:54 pm, Barry Watzman <WatzmanNOS...(a)neo.rr.com> wrote:
> I was under the impression that you should have been able to have
> scanned that roll.  I service these units.  I have seen posts which say
> that the original IA-20 could only scan shorter rolls, but that the
> IA-20(S) could scan the longer rolls.  Honestly, my impression (I have
> taken these units apart) has been that the IA-20 and IA-20(S) are
> identical except for the color of the plastic (the (S) models of the
> SF-200, IA-20 and MA-20 are molded in "silver" (gray) plastic instead of
> beige).
>
> But, in any case, you HAVE the IA-20(S) model, which is supposed to be
> the model that CAN do the longer rolls.  So, honestly, I don't know.
> I'd tell you to call Nikon, but from what I've seen, your chances of
> getting a straight and correct answer from them are not all that good.
>
>
>
> Ivan wrote:
> > I have a Nikon Coolscan V ED with the IA-20 (S) adapter for APS
> > films.  It scans 25-exposure rolls, but when I try a 40-exposure one,
> > it rejects it, with an error message that it is "either too short or
> > too long."
>
> > Is this a built-in limitation? If not, how do I scan these films?

I read one post where these scanners are prone to tightening the APS
roll the more it is cycled through the adapter. This creates
additional tension and eventually strips the plastic gears. Not sure
if it would give you the errors you are talking about.

Email me if you need scans I think my FS4000 would do it....

From: Barry Watzman on
I can't vouch for that, but .... the failure rate on the IA-20 APS film
feeders is tremendously high, very few of them last and it costs about
$80 to get them fixed. They are full of flimsy plastic gears (dozens of
them) and it would not surprise me in the least if this was correct.
However, my experience in attempting (with 100% UN-success, I might add)
to service them has not turned up broken gears. What I SUSPECT is that
the gears have to be "timed" relative to each other (like the cam and
crankshafts of a car) and that the teeth "slip".


AndyCBR wrote:

>
> I read one post where these scanners are prone to tightening the APS
> roll the more it is cycled through the adapter. This creates
> additional tension and eventually strips the plastic gears. Not sure
> if it would give you the errors you are talking about.
>
> Email me if you need scans I think my FS4000 would do it....
>
From: Nigel Feltham on
Barry Watzman wrote:

> I can't vouch for that, but .... the failure rate on the IA-20 APS film
> feeders is tremendously high, very few of them last and it costs about
> $80 to get them fixed. They are full of flimsy plastic gears (dozens of
> them) and it would not surprise me in the least if this was correct.
> However, my experience in attempting (with 100% UN-success, I might add)
> to service them has not turned up broken gears. What I SUSPECT is that
> the gears have to be "timed" relative to each other (like the cam and
> crankshafts of a car) and that the teeth "slip".

If this was true (and it's possible, you would know better than me having
taken them apart) then you would normally have a line on the chassis next to
the gear and either a dot or a line on the gear so they can all be aligned
to a known starting point during factory assembly - as long as every gear
has it's mark lined up with the chassis mark then the alignment is correct
until things slip in use.

Sometimes it's hard to spot a broken gear too - they don't always look
broken and could just have the tips of the teeth worn down enough to no
longer correctly mesh (with bigger gears you can spot flat points on the
teeth tips but when things get smaller it's impossible to tell without
turning the gears by hand and seeing if they slip under load).

I fix printers for my job and we get this all the time, gears that visibly
look fine but are still worn down enough to slip under load from the paper
(or wobble due to centre wearing down against their spindle).