From: b11_ on 15 Dec 2009 19:51 Seeking utility that checks the motherboard battery.
From: Shenan Stanley on 15 Dec 2009 20:28 b11_ wrote: > Seeking utility that checks the motherboard battery. Most efficient/sure way... Remove the battery, spend the $1, replace the battery. -- Shenan Stanley MS-MVP -- How To Ask Questions The Smart Way http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html
From: Rey Santos on 16 Dec 2009 03:28 Voltages are shown on the BIOS setup under something like PCHealth if your motherboard supports it. However, the CMOS (VBAT) battery may indicate the correct voltage because it has already recharged. A dying battery can still recharge but loses charge quickly after shutdown. Indications of dying/dead battery CMOS bad checksum error on first boot where you need to press F1 to continue and the date and time gets reset. -- Rey "b11_" wrote: > Seeking utility that checks the motherboard battery.
From: Paul on 16 Dec 2009 07:18 Rey Santos wrote: > Voltages are shown on the BIOS setup under something like PCHealth if your > motherboard supports it. However, the CMOS (VBAT) battery may indicate the > correct voltage because it has already recharged. A dying battery can still > recharge but loses charge quickly after shutdown. Indications of dying/dead > battery CMOS bad checksum error on first boot where you need to press F1 to > continue and the date and time gets reset. > The CR2032 and associated circuitry in the computer, is specifically designed *not* to charge the battery. The battery manufacturer doesn't want anyone pumping current into it. Accidental charging current (an unavoidable aspect of the way the circuit is designed) is limited to 1 microamp. And this value is established by the leakage characteristics of the typical diodes used to prevent battery charging. http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/cr2032.pdf Max Rev Charge: 1 microampere <--- charging by accident, not on purpose That means if there was charging current, it is basically limited to the max leakage in a typical diode being used to enforce forward conduction only. If you scroll to the very bottom of this document, Figure 6 has an equivalent circuit for motherboard applications. http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/images/pdf/Panasonic_Lithium_PrevQualityProblems.pdf The battery circuit has a series resistor (the "squiggle" above the battery). The thing after that, is the diode (inverted triangle with bar on top). The diode enforces unidirectional current flow, in this case, out of the battery. If the diode is reverse biased (by the circuit attempting to charge the battery), the diode stops the current flow. Since the diode is not perfect, at high temperatures, like 100C, the diode may leak up to 1 microamp of current. The energizer datasheet is adjusted to match that reality, so that a designer can use a Schottky diode. Schottky diodes are preferred for their low Vfb forward bias voltage drop. I'm sure Energizer doesn't want any current in there, but allowing a value of 1 microampere makes it possible for the circuit shown in the Panasonic document to be used. A worst case scenario for battery usage would be 1) Use the computer for eight hours a day (typical work day). 2) Unplug the computer at the end of the day. Time keeping runs from the CR2032. You're saving on your AC power bill. But this shortens the battery life. Such a usage scenario results in a three year battery life. A second usage scenario would be 1) Computer user uses the computer normally. Hours of usage don't matter. 2) At the end of a session, the user places the computer in standby via "Turn Off Computer" : "Standby". That is standby suspend to RAM (S3). The computer power supply provides juice for time keeping, from +5VSB. No current flows out of the battery. That usage scenario results in a ten year battery life (i.e. the same as the shelf life of the battery roughly). Time keeping in that case, is always supported by current flowing from the ATX power supply. The computer must remain plugged in and switched on at the back. But the fans don't have to be spinning. +5VSB runs as long as the switch on the back is in the ON position. ******* Not all computers have the ability to monitor VBAT in hardware. And I've seen cases where the hardware monitor has a signal intended for that purpose, but no utility seems to display any info about it. I would not rely on a software utility to check the voltage, because of the variety of hardware implementations. Using a multimeter to check the battery (you can even leave the battery in place while checking it), is a reliable way to check it. But this is not something that people are going to be doing every day - as you state, surveillance should start, if there is trouble noted with time keeping when the computer sleeps, or if BIOS settings are being lost (like which disk to boot from). That is the time to dig out the multimeter. ******* There was a time in the past, where at least some devices, used a NiCD battery (rechargeable) to power standby circuitry. Such circuits are notoriously bad, as the batteries used to leak and corrode electrical connections and other hardware. The move to the current Lithium battery scheme, prevents such damage. Personally, I wait until the computer exhibits tell tale symptoms, before bothering to check the CR2032 with a multimeter. It is too much effort to be doing such a check regularly. Paul
From: Jose on 16 Dec 2009 07:24 On Dec 15, 7:51 pm, b11_ <b...(a)discussions.microsoft.com> wrote: > Seeking utility that checks the motherboard battery. If you suspect it, replace it and be done with it. Here come the volt meters and schematics...
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