Solder flux and resistance
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From: Grant on 23 Jul 2010 19:00 On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:03:41 -0700 (PDT), George Herold <ggherold(a)gmail.com> wrote: >On Jul 23, 5:16 pm, Grant <o...(a)grrr.id.au> wrote: >> On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 08:45:22 -0700 (PDT), George Herold <gher...(a)teachspin.com> wrote: >> .... >> >> >Today, (at the suggestion of Grant on SED), I 'burned' some 44 flux >> >with a soldering gun. I made lots of black icky stuff. The >> >resistance was 3X10^11 ohms the same as all the other boards. >> >> Thanks for that, I'm hand soldering prototypes on matrix card with >> 60/40 rosin core (Ersin multicore) and any rework usually burns the >> rosin, knowing it's not making unexpected resistors is good :) >> >> Grant. > >This was a 'one of' experiment, your results at home may vary. Oh sure, it's the indication of trouble I was after. I don't have a high range resistance meter here. You found more trouble with water wash flux than with cooked rosin :) > >It sounds like you need a temperature regulated soldering iron. I've >got a Weller with temperature 'set point' tips. The 700F with a sharp >tip works fine and never any burning. Yes, I know the Weller, used them for years, at work, sometimes at home, and I chose 700'F tips too. I don't like that slight tip jump when the Weller's tip 'clicks' in sometimes at a critical part of work. As well, they attract the iron based leads from some components, very annoying. Got a new Hakko FX-888 65W temperature controlled iron recently (couple weeks ago), still getting used to it. Quite pleased with new iron so far. With the old soldering iron I had to turn temp up a bit to get heat flow, thus it was often too hot :( Not enough metal in the tips, so temp regulation was poor. Here's a photo of latest project, some rosin is slightly cooked, none is black, nor even very dark: http://grrr.id.au/adc-hires/ second image. Using the Hakko at ~350'C, ~650'F with 60/40 for this medium-fine work. Trouble with these prototypes is changing components and rework can cook the old rosin, but if it gets too dark I clean it off. Not happening with new iron, but I had the old one for few years, and that sticks in my memory. Grant.
From: George Herold on 23 Jul 2010 22:50
On Jul 23, 7:00 pm, Grant <o...(a)grrr.id.au> wrote: > On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:03:41 -0700 (PDT), George Herold <ggher...(a)gmail.com> wrote: > >On Jul 23, 5:16 pm, Grant <o...(a)grrr.id.au> wrote: > >> On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 08:45:22 -0700 (PDT), George Herold <gher...(a)teachspin.com> wrote: > > ... > > >> >Today, (at the suggestion of Grant on SED), I burned some 44 flux > >> >with a soldering gun. I made lots of black icky stuff. The > >> >resistance was 3X10^11 ohms the same as all the other boards. > > >> Thanks for that, I'm hand soldering prototypes on matrix card with > >> 60/40 rosin core (Ersin multicore) and any rework usually burns the > >> rosin, knowing it's not making unexpected resistors is good :) > > >> Grant. > > >This was a 'one of' experiment, your results at home may vary. > > Oh sure, it's the indication of trouble I was after. I don't have a > high range resistance meter here. You found more trouble with water > wash flux than with cooked rosin :) > > > > >It sounds like you need a temperature regulated soldering iron. I've > >got a Weller with temperature 'set point' tips. The 700F with a sharp > >tip works fine and never any burning. > > Yes, I know the Weller, used them for years, at work, sometimes at home, > and I chose 700'F tips too. I don't like that slight tip jump when the > Weller's tip 'clicks' in sometimes at a critical part of work. As well, > they attract the iron based leads from some components, very annoying. > > Got a new Hakko FX-888 65W temperature controlled iron recently (couple > weeks ago), still getting used to it. Quite pleased with new iron so far. > > With the old soldering iron I had to turn temp up a bit to get heat > flow, thus it was often too hot :( Not enough metal in the tips, so > temp regulation was poor. > > Here's a photo of latest project, some rosin is slightly cooked, none > is black, nor even very dark:http://grrr.id.au/adc-hires/second image. > > Using the Hakko at ~350'C, ~650'F with 60/40 for this medium-fine work. > > Trouble with these prototypes is changing components and rework can > cook the old rosin, but if it gets too dark I clean it off. > > Not happening with new iron, but I had the old one for few years, and > that sticks in my memory. > > Grant.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - I'll was thinking I should post a picture of black icky. (Monday?) George H. |