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From: Mark Zacharias on 3 Jan 2010 20:23
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:DA_%m.33832$xa7.32916(a)newsfe14.ams2...
>
> "Fin West" <FW(a)nosuch.com> wrote in message
> news:3b80k55fs9lncps2el2kknd99r21phm63n(a)4ax.com...
>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"Fin West" <FW(a)nosuch.com> wrote in message
>>>news:fplvj5hr4pk62640v80ik2filkuadalv4o(a)4ax.com...
>>>>I have a Teac CD-P1260 CD player that has had very little use and no
>>>> abuse, and now doesn't play. It was bought 2 1/2 years ago, placed in
>>>> an equipment closet and not moved until now, and has been used about
>>>> 10 hours. Now it shows No Disc for any discs we try to play.
>>>>
>>>> I removed the cover and cleaned the lens. On inserting a disc I saw
>>>> the disc clamp into place but it doesn't rotate. Everything moves
>>>> freely and looks very clean.
>>>>
>>>> Last week I tried tapping the main circuit board, and when I did the
>>>> disc started playing. When I tapped the drive itself, that also
>>>> started the player working. Each time I tried another disc I had to
>>>> tap again to get the player started.
>>>>
>>>> I had to stop working on the player until today. Today tapping doesn't
>>>> work anymore. It looks like the player doesn't see a reflected light
>>>> signal and won't spin the disc.
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone here have experience with this model player to know if
>>>> this is a common problem and where to look? I would also appreciate
>>>> suggestions from anyone with experience to suggest how I should
>>>> proceed to try to find what's wrong.
>>>>
>>>
>>>It may still be a dirty laser - but not where you can see it. Although
>>>the
>>>lens may look clean (was it dusty before you cleaned it ??) you could
>>>have
>>>dust on the CA mirror or pickup photodiode array, both of which are
>>>inside
>>>the body of the laser. Another thing to try is to spin the disc with a
>>>finger just after it clamps. Sometimes, lack of use can lead to a spindle
>>>motor which is reluctant to start up on its own. Make sure that the laser
>>>is
>>>free to move on its slides. With the unit switched off and no disc in,
>>>move
>>>the laser by hand, away from the centre 'home' position, then power on
>>>and
>>>make sure that the laser returns home, then burns (do not look directly
>>>into
>>>the top of the laser - observe at a shallow angle and you should be able
>>>to
>>>see a dull red glow in the lens) and that focus search takes place
>>>correctly. The lens should move up and down probably three times, and in
>>>a
>>>very 'positive' fashion. If all of this seems to take place correctly,
>>>reinsert a disc. It might just play now ... (honest!)
>>>
>>>If it doesn't play, you can try pressing on the main pcb with a biro pen
>>>or
>>>some other insulated 'stick' whilst inserting a disc, and also poking the
>>>laser flexiprint with the tip of a small screwdriver. Other than this,
>>>without detailed knowledge of how a CD player works, and some decent test
>>>equipment, you are unlikely to get far. I would say that it would be
>>>worth
>>>trying a laser in it, although tap sensitivity is not generally
>>>considered
>>>as a typical laser problem, but that aspect of your observations prior to
>>>the total failure might be a bit of a red herring. It is of course easy
>>>for
>>>an engineer to say "try a laser in it", as we have them in stock on the
>>>shelf (it's probably a Sony KSS 213 series laser), but I wouldn't
>>>recommend
>>>that you waste your money on buying a replacement, on the offchance that
>>>might cure it ...
>>>
>>>Arfa
>>>
>>
>> Thank you for this reply. The lens looked clean as could be before I
>> cleaned it with alcohol. It looked the same after I cleaned it. I did
>> spin the disc after it clamped and it spins freely and coasts a little
>> before it stops. I also did move the laser by hand and watched it
>> scurry back to its home position when I turned the power on. I didn't
>> think I could see the lens in its home position. Tomorrow I'll try to
>> observe the laser as you said.
>>
>> I'll continue to try poking to see if I can find something repeatable.
>> I spent my entire work career in the electronics field and have many
>> years experience in the design, development and troubleshooting of
>> electronic equipment. While I worked I had access to all kinds of test
>> equipment, but now that I'm retired the only equipment I have is a
>> Heathkit VOM I built 50 years ago (it still works well). The laser is
>> a Sony laser but it may be difficult for me to replace it at home.
>>
>
> OK. Most of the Teac lasers are not too difficult to replace, but I seem
> to recall one or two that are bitches to get at. That said, if you are
> able to see the lens and move the laser and spin the disc, this is
> probably one of the easy ones (I see so many different players passing
> across my bench that I don't take much notice of specific model numbers
> unless I need to get service info out). If it is a Sony laser, it will
> (probably) use a single white flexiprint for its connection, and have a
> small label at the top right corner of its connector board which will say
> "KSS213C or B". There are "D", "E" and "F" versions commonly available as
> well, but for most players, it is critical to use what was originally
> fitted. B's and C's are very cheap. The others a little more expensive.
>
> Sometimes, you can remove the disc clamp bracket from a deck, which then
> gives free access to the whole sub-deck. I have a sawn-off piece of an old
> disc that I use to hold over the top of the lens at turntable height. You
> have to be fairly accurate with the height that you are holding it at, and
> hold it as level as you can, but by using this technique, you can often
> 'catch' the lens as it does its focus search. It will then 'hang' (as
> though by magic !) a couple of mm from the underside of the disc fragment,
> and if you move that fragment up and down a small amount, you can watch
> the lens 'follow'. If you can get the laser to obtain and hold focus like
> this, it's often a good indicator that the laser is ok, and that the
> problem lies elsewhere.
>
> Arfa
>

I wonder if the Teac unit in quetion is a U.S. or Euro model. I believe they
are very different - some high end models in Europe, perhaps using brushless
motors, and really awful junk in the U.S.

Mark Z.

From: Fin West on 3 Jan 2010 23:49
"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias(a)sbclobal.net> wrote:

>I wonder if the Teac unit in quetion is a U.S. or Euro model. I believe they
>are very different - some high end models in Europe, perhaps using brushless
>motors, and really awful junk in the U.S.

The unit is clearly U.S. junk. It was made in China in December, 2006.
Many reviewers on Amazon.com complained about the same problem I'm
having.

The unit actually belongs to a friend who was very reluctant to buy
anything from Teac. She decided to take a chance because there's no
other option we could find for a stand-alone player except for very
expensive models.

From: Fin West on 12 Jan 2010 10:43
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote:

>OK. Most of the Teac lasers are not too difficult to replace, but I seem to
>recall one or two that are bitches to get at. That said, if you are able to
>see the lens and move the laser and spin the disc, this is probably one of
>the easy ones (I see so many different players passing across my bench that
>I don't take much notice of specific model numbers unless I need to get
>service info out). If it is a Sony laser, it will (probably) use a single
>white flexiprint for its connection, and have a small label at the top right
>corner of its connector board which will say "KSS213C or B". There are "D",
>"E" and "F" versions commonly available as well, but for most players, it is
>critical to use what was originally fitted. B's and C's are very cheap. The
>others a little more expensive.

I can't see any sign that the laser is working and I would like to try
to replace the laser assembly. I have a question and a request.

The laser is marked KSS-213CL. What's the difference between it and a
KSS-213C, and is the C a good replacement?

I would like instructions on the best way to start. What needs to be
disassembled, do I work from the top or the bottom, any hints for how
to proceed.

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