From: DGF on
How do you verify that a battery-powered digital thermostat is working
like it should? From what I've read, it seems that it is supposed to
electrically bridge the connection between R wire and the W wire, when
it turns on heating. I detached a thermostat from the HVAC system and
tested the connection between the two terminals using a multimeter *when
the room temperature was well below the heating set-point*; the contacts
on the thermostat corresponding to the R & W wires didn't seem to allow
current to flow through. Given that it's an electronic device and may
not respond to the small DC voltage from the multimeter the same way it
may to 24 VAC, I can't tell whether the thermostat is good or bad.

Any ideas?
From: Stormin Mormon on
Put it back on the wall. Run the temp way up. Go see if
there is a 24 volt signal at W.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DGF" <noname(a)noplace.nospam> wrote in message
news:hk00ce$f9b$1(a)speranza.aioe.org...
How do you verify that a battery-powered digital thermostat
is working
like it should? From what I've read, it seems that it is
supposed to
electrically bridge the connection between R wire and the W
wire, when
it turns on heating. I detached a thermostat from the HVAC
system and
tested the connection between the two terminals using a
multimeter *when
the room temperature was well below the heating set-point*;
the contacts
on the thermostat corresponding to the R & W wires didn't
seem to allow
current to flow through. Given that it's an electronic
device and may
not respond to the small DC voltage from the multimeter the
same way it
may to 24 VAC, I can't tell whether the thermostat is good
or bad.

Any ideas?


From: PeterD on
On Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:01:01 -0500, DGF <noname(a)noplace.nospam> wrote:

>How do you verify that a battery-powered digital thermostat is working
>like it should? From what I've read, it seems that it is supposed to
>electrically bridge the connection between R wire and the W wire, when
>it turns on heating. I detached a thermostat from the HVAC system and
>tested the connection between the two terminals using a multimeter *when
>the room temperature was well below the heating set-point*; the contacts
>on the thermostat corresponding to the R & W wires didn't seem to allow
>current to flow through. Given that it's an electronic device and may
>not respond to the small DC voltage from the multimeter the same way it
>may to 24 VAC, I can't tell whether the thermostat is good or bad.
>
>Any ideas?

Like making a test circuit that provides the necessary 24 volts?
From: Mikepier on
On Jan 29, 9:16 pm, PeterD <pet...(a)hipson.net> wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:01:01 -0500, DGF <non...(a)noplace.nospam> wrote:
> >How do you verify that a battery-powered digital thermostat is working
> >like it should? From what I've read, it seems that it is supposed to
> >electrically bridge the connection between R wire and the W wire, when
> >it turns on heating. I detached a thermostat from the HVAC system and
> >tested the connection between the two terminals using a multimeter *when
> >the room temperature was well below the heating set-point*; the contacts
> >on the thermostat corresponding to the R & W wires didn't seem to allow
> >current to flow through. Given that it's an electronic device and may
> >not respond to the small DC voltage from the multimeter the same way it
> >may to 24 VAC, I can't tell whether the thermostat is good or bad.
>
> >Any ideas?
>
> Like making a test circuit that provides the necessary 24 volts?

I think he's right. Most T-stats have "power stealing" circuitry,
meaning they depend on the 24VAC from the HVAC system.
From: trader4 on
On Jan 30, 6:06 am, Mikepier <mikep...(a)optonline.net> wrote:
> On Jan 29, 9:16 pm, PeterD <pet...(a)hipson.net> wrote:
>
> > On Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:01:01 -0500, DGF <non...(a)noplace.nospam> wrote:
> > >How do you verify that a battery-powered digital thermostat is working
> > >like it should? From what I've read, it seems that it is supposed to
> > >electrically bridge the connection between R wire and the W wire, when
> > >it turns on heating. I detached a thermostat from the HVAC system and
> > >tested the connection between the two terminals using a multimeter *when
> > >the room temperature was well below the heating set-point*; the contacts
> > >on the thermostat corresponding to the R & W wires didn't seem to allow
> > >current to flow through. Given that it's an electronic device and may
> > >not respond to the small DC voltage from the multimeter the same way it
> > >may to 24 VAC, I can't tell whether the thermostat is good or bad.
>
> > >Any ideas?
>
> > Like making a test circuit that provides the necessary 24 volts?
>
> I think he's right. Most T-stats have "power stealing" circuitry,
> meaning they depend on the 24VAC from the HVAC system.


Hook it back up. With the room temp above the heat setpoint you
should have 24VAC between the wires that turn on the furnace. Set
the thermostat above the room temp and the voltage should drop to
close to zero, indicating the circuit is closed.