Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma
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From: David Nebenzahl on 16 Mar 2010 02:18 On 3/15/2010 9:12 PM Warren Block spake thus: > David Nebenzahl <nobody(a)but.us.chickens> wrote: >> >> It's an NTE 1904 (replacement for ECG1904). Similar to the LM78xx >> series, I guess; just your standard 3-terminal positive regulator. >> >> Not sure what you mean by only 1.75 volts across; do you mean the >> difference between input and output? In any case, I assume it's working >> correctly, since I can see 3.xx volts at the output. >> >> I tried it using a variable DC power supply; no better result. I'm >> thinking there's something wrong with the camera. >> >> (And by not working I mean the camera doesn't respond to the power >> switch *at all*. No little beeps, no display, nothing.) > > Polarity on the jack, or maybe a blown picofuse? Polarity is correct; there's a legend cast into the camera showing the inner post is positive. Picofuse inside the camera? Just discovered I'd need a special screwdriver (with a 3-wing tip) to get inside the dang thing. I've got a whole set of security screwdriver bits, but nothing that small. -- You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it. - a Usenet "apology"
From: Wild_Bill on 16 Mar 2010 04:49 It's likely that you will need a 2A minimum PSU power supply to get this cam to work reliably (switchmode PSU is likely much better than a small transformer type). I have a HP 215 PhotoSmart cam (bought new) that would barely work with 4 new AA alkaline batteries. The batteries weren't drained, the cam just refused to turn on after only about 8 shots. The manual recommended the new Energizer (silvery-looking) batteries that were about $8-$10 for a 4-pack. The HP AC adapter was about $48, IIRC. I bought an AC adapter (DigiPower, I think) which is labeled 6V 1.5A, and it's a SMPS type. The cam worked fine with it, and since I wanted the cam for eBay ad and webpage pics, using the wired PSU wasn't too bad (PSU came wih a 10 or 12 ft cable on it). I thought I'd just make an adapter to hold 4 C cells with a connector for the exernal power connector on the cam, and the cam would give better performance. Cam wouldn't even turn on with 4 new C alkalines connected, and not with 4 Ds.. or 5 Ds. The external batteries needed to be connected directly to the cam's internal battery terminals, in a deep well in the cam body. So I made an adapter from some round nylon stock to fit into the 2x2 AA battery space, that had leads for the external batteries. The cam would then work with 4 Cs or Ds, but not much better than 4 AAs. The final solution was to use 4 AA 2000mAh NIMH cells inside the cam. Perfect operation for a couple hundred shots per charge, all with the LCD viewfinder turned on. -- Cheers, WB .............. "David Nebenzahl" <nobody(a)but.us.chickens> wrote in message news:4b99d1e2$0$2377$822641b3(a)news.adtechcomputers.com... > To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my > Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall wart, > put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a little piece > of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power mini jack. > > The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It > puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the > camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power > jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's > something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external > power, which seems unlikely). > > So I'll probably bite the bullet and shell out a little $ to buy the AC > adapter made for this camera (found one on the internets for about $12). > > The camera itself (bought for $1 at Oakland's White Elephant sale) works > like a charm; just got the USB cable for it today ($4.75). > > > -- > You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it. > > - a Usenet "apology"
From: David Nebenzahl on 17 Mar 2010 03:22 On 3/16/2010 12:49 AM Wild_Bill spake thus: > I thought I'd just make an adapter to hold 4 C cells with a connector for > the exernal power connector on the cam, and the cam would give better > performance. That occurred to me too. > Cam wouldn't even turn on with 4 new C alkalines connected, and not with 4 > Ds.. or 5 Ds. Wow; surprising. Wonder why that is? Same voltage, and should be plenty of oomph. > The external batteries needed to be connected directly to the cam's internal > battery terminals, in a deep well in the cam body. > So I made an adapter from some round nylon stock to fit into the 2x2 AA > battery space, that had leads for the external batteries. > The cam would then work with 4 Cs or Ds, but not much better than 4 AAs. > > The final solution was to use 4 AA 2000mAh NIMH cells inside the cam. > Perfect operation for a couple hundred shots per charge, all with the LCD > viewfinder turned on. I'm thinking about NiMHs too; they're on the official diet for my camera. Like you, I had planned on using this cam just around the house for shots of stuff to sell on eBay, so I wouldn't have minded having tethered power. I mainly want to avoid having to buy and throw out lots of AA "batteries". -- You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it. - a Usenet "apology"
From: William Sommerwerck on 17 Mar 2010 07:56
>> The final solution was to use 4 AA 2000mAh NIMH cells >> inside the cam. Perfect operation for a couple hundred shots >> per charge, all with the LCD viewfinder turned on. > I'm thinking about NiMHs too; they're on the official diet for my > camera. Like you, I had planned on using this cam just around > the house for shots of stuff to sell on eBay, so I wouldn't have > minded having tethered power. I mainly want to avoid having to > buy and throw out lots of AA "batteries". Did I not suggest -- a week ago -- that you use NiMH cells? They can be used in other equipment. ----- The Lady from Philadelphia |