installing DDR2 RAM chips in a HP xw4600 workstation
in [Hardware]
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From: t on 12 Mar 2010 21:25 I have not added RAM to any machine before. Went through the guideshttp://www.smartcomputing.com/editorial/article.asp?guid=&bJumpto=true&Isfrm=IN&article=articles/webonly/techsupport/108w10/108w10.asp&ArticleID=31001http://computermemoryupgrade.mysuperpc.com/ddr_memory_upgrade_tutorial_start.shtmlThe machine specifications are as follows:Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional Service Pack 3 CPU Type Intel Pentium 4 640, 3200 MHz (16 x 200) Motherboard Name Hewlett-Packard HP Compaq dc7600 Convertible Minitower Motherboard Chipset Intel Lakeport-G i945G BIOS Type Compaq (05/18/05) I have already backed up the machines data in case anything goes wrong.Anything in particular I need to be careful/aware of?Any suggestions would be appreciated.
From: Paul on 13 Mar 2010 02:38 t wrote: > I have not added RAM to any machine before. Went through the guides > > http://www.smartcomputing.com/editorial/article.asp?guid=&bJumpto=true&Isfrm=IN&article=articles/webonly/techsupport/108w10/108w10.asp&ArticleID=31001 > > http://computermemoryupgrade.mysuperpc.com/ddr_memory_upgrade_tutorial_start.shtml > > The machine specifications are as follows: > > Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional Service Pack 3 > CPU Type Intel Pentium 4 640, 3200 MHz (16 x 200) > Motherboard Name Hewlett-Packard HP Compaq dc7600 Convertible Minitower > Motherboard Chipset Intel Lakeport-G i945G > BIOS Type Compaq (05/18/05) > > I have already backed up the machines data in case anything goes wrong. > Anything in particular I need to be careful/aware of? > Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm not sure what kind of information you're looking for. And that makes this post longer than it has to be. The motherboard has four slots. You haven't indicated how much memory is currently in the computer. The 945G chipset is technically capable of holding 2GB capacity DIMMs. But if you do that, you can only cost effectively populate two slots with the 2GB DIMMs, leaving the remaining slots blank. I've put some examples of configurations below. To start, say the computer shipped with 2x512MB. They'd be in a pair of same-colored slots. You could add a package of memory with 2x1GB sticks in it, filling the remaining slots. Why is this useful ? Because the amount of address space available to address main memory, is limited. Using 3GB total memory results in none of the extra memory being wasted. 512MB \___ Channel A 1GB / 512MB \___ Channel B 1GB / If the machine shipped with 2x1GB installed, then you could either buy 2x512MB or 2x1GB. I'll make an example out of the latter configuration, to be a bit different. The total memory is 4GB. When you boot Windows, it may say "3.2GB free". Notice that 800MB has gone missing. That might happen, if there is a separate video card plugged in as an upgrade. The less address space used for video, the better use you'll get from the memory upgrade. 1GB old \___ Channel A 1GB new / 1GB old \___ Channel B 1GB new / As far as I know, this is a legal configuration, but is not practical in terms of an incremental upgrade strategy. This too would report "3.2GB free". The actual number varies, depending on the video card. I have a machine here, that reports "3.5GB free", because it had a PCI video card. 2GB new \___ Channel A --- --- / 2GB new \___ Channel B --- --- / When installing memory, turn off power to the computer. I like to unplug the computer, as a means of assuring that all power has been removed. ******* For anti-static protection, the algorithm is "charge equalization". The word "grounding" isn't really what the hardware needs. What you want, is for all components to be at the same electrical protection. We've ingrained the notion of "grounding" into people, because, in a sense, it does lead to all components being at the same potential. But that doesn't tell the whole story. If you look at the materials used to hold the memory, you'll notice they're plastic. Plastic normally holds a static charge quite nicely. This plastic has mixed with it, something which makes the plastic slightly conductive. If you "zap" the plastic package with your finger tip, the high resistance of the plastic allows the charge to redistribute slowly. A slow distribution of charge means a low peak current flow, which is less damaging. The conductive plastic helps protect the memory while it is shipped and handled. So two mechanisms are at work, when it comes to antistatic precautions. 1) Slow equalization of charge, so that all devices are at the same electrostatic potential. 2) Bringing all the electrical parts to the same potential, before plugging them together. That means there are no "arcs or sparks" when they're installed. This is an example of a hardware aid, to help bring some things to the same electrostatic potential. This is a wrist strap. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2260808 You clip the alligator clip on the end, to some shiny metal on the chassis. I like to use a screw on an I/O connector on the back of the computer, as the clip should hold there nicely. When your wrist is in the strap, the cord of the strap is actually a high resistance path. There could be a 1 megohm resistor or higher, in series in the strap. That strap is *not* just a straight piece of wire, and substituting a wire is not quite the same thing. If you want to make a wrist strap out of some wire, remember to buy and place a high resistance 1/4W resistor in series with it. Resistors are available up to 22 megohms, at retail. If you were holding the tray with the memory DIMMs in your hand, while the strap is connected to the chassis, within a few seconds, all items are at the same electrical potential. Now, you can plug in the DIMMs. Don't handle the gold contacts, as it leaves salt stains on the contacts. The objective is to leave the contacts clean. So little gold is used in the gold plating, that the less precious metals underneath, are still exposed to the elements. Keeping your finger prints off the contacts, means less long term issues. You don't have to buy the wrist strap. You can "emulate" the process of charge equalization, without a strap. It would mean holding onto the chassis with one hand, the memory tray with the other, to bring them to the same potential, then remaining in contact with the chassis, until the memory is installed. And, doing it in such a way, that equalization is through a high resistance path. The tray or bag the memory comes in, is a high resistance path. Your body is not. Your body is a low resistance path (~100K ohms). You can handle the DIMM, once it is equalized, but you need to keep you, the chassis, and the DIMM at the same potential, until the DIMM is installed. Using the wrist strap gives you more physical freedom during the installation. It takes a fair bit of dexterity to emulate the wrist strap, without dropping the DIMM etc. If you're a butter fingers, having your very own strap is a good investment. Memory has a few standard mechanical features. The latches on the DIMM slot, are cam ejectors for helping the DIMM out of the socket later. There is an indentation on the side of the DIMM, and when the latch is fully upright, a feature of the latch should align with the indentation on the side of the DIMM. That helps prove to you, that the DIMM is fully seated. You shouldn't be able to see any gold showing, if the DIMM is really down into the socket. And where the key meets the slot, the key should be just about touching the slot. You should be able to verify visually, that the thing is seated, as well as getting a satisfying "click and krunch" when pushing down on the DIMM. The memory comes in various heights. I have some low-profile memory I got from Kingston here. I've found that it takes a little extra pressure to install that stuff in the DIMM slot. So much pressure, that it hurts your fingers. Just in case you were wondering whether you should be "feeling any pain" or not :-) Regular height memory seems to fit in with a little less pressure, and you won't feel any pain when installing that stuff. Align the slot in the contact area of the DIMM, with the key in the DIMM slot itself. The DIMM will not seat, if you flipped it 180 degrees and tried to install it backwards. The key is there to ensure you're installing the right family of memory (DDR, DDR2, DDR3), as well as guide you to putting it in the right direction. Don't push down on the DIMM, if you've aligned it the wrong way. Your computer is a pre-built, so the motherboard should be well supported underneath. Some people who build their own computers, don't have any standoffs under the motherboard, near the RAM slots. This results in the motherboard bending in an excessive manner when memory is installed. It is OK for the motherboard to bend a little bit, but there should be some mechanical support underneath that area of the motherboard, as too much bending can break a solder joint. OK, now your memory is in place, all latches are upright, and none of the DIMMs are tilted on an angle (tilted because only one end is seated). Now, plug in the power, switch it back on via the switch on the back of the computer, and prepare for *testing* . Download memtest86+ from memtest.org and prepare a floppy, a CD ROM or a USB flash stick. Run memtest86+ for a couple complete passes. If no memory errors are detected, you can boot into Windows. If memory errors are detected, you have to resolve the issue, before booting back into Windows. Don't boot into Windows if the memory is not working right. If you need more help with that, simply remove the new memory, and return the machine to the original state. You should run memtest86+, even on the original memory, to see if it has any problems. Then, post back for more help. In this picture, you can see the current Pass is at 41%, and the Pass counter is still at "0". You want the Pass counter to hit 2, with no errors showing, as proof you're in good shape. When you've completed testing, press <esc>, and remove the memtest86+ boot media. Memtest86+ is a self-booting test program, and uses no operating system. So Windows is not running, when you see this screen. http://memtest.org/pics/i875-big.gif Paul
From: t on 15 Mar 2010 15:05 On 3/13/2010 2:38 AM, Paul wrote: > t wrote: >> I have not added RAM to any machine before. Went through the guides >> >> http://www.smartcomputing.com/editorial/article.asp?guid=&bJumpto=true&Isfrm=IN&article=articles/webonly/techsupport/108w10/108w10.asp&ArticleID=31001 >> >> >> http://computermemoryupgrade.mysuperpc.com/ddr_memory_upgrade_tutorial_start.shtml >> >> >> The machine specifications are as follows: >> >> Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional Service Pack 3 >> CPU Type Intel Pentium 4 640, 3200 MHz (16 x 200) >> Motherboard Name Hewlett-Packard HP Compaq dc7600 Convertible Minitower >> Motherboard Chipset Intel Lakeport-G i945G >> BIOS Type Compaq (05/18/05) >> >> I have already backed up the machines data in case anything goes wrong. >> Anything in particular I need to be careful/aware of? >> Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > I'm not sure what kind of information you're looking for. The information you posted was what I was I looking for which is how to install RAM using the proper precautions. Thanks a lot for the very detailed post. That was very helpful.
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