some breadboards
in [Design]
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From: Nico Coesel on 11 Apr 2010 13:01 John Larkin <jjlarkin(a)highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote: >On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 11:19:16 -0700, Fester Bestertester <fbt(a)fbt.net> >wrote: > >>> You can do some fun stuff with kapton tape, too. >> >>Please elaborate. This sounds like fun! > >Here's an EclipsLite gate driving a phemt. The SO-8 sits on a piece of >kapton tape with cutouts for the leads that solder to copper. Nice and >planar. Two ugly fingerprints. I really need some gold-plated >copperclad. How about spraying flux on the board first to keep the copper from corroding? -- Failure does not prove something is impossible, failure simply indicates you are not using the right tools... nico(a)nctdevpuntnl (punt=.) --------------------------------------------------------------
From: Fester Bestertester on 11 Apr 2010 13:39 > No, it's just a one-sided insulator, but it stands up to solder. > > Kapton tape+copper tape = capacitor or transmission line > > Glues (hot melt, CA, epoxy) tend to not stick to copper for long. > Solder is the best adhesive for copperclad. > > John You don't use any adhesive? Just anchor the GND pin to copper? (And, I presume, some N/C and unused inputs, too...)
From: John Larkin on 11 Apr 2010 14:01 On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 17:01:13 GMT, nico(a)puntnl.niks (Nico Coesel) wrote: >John Larkin <jjlarkin(a)highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote: > >>On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 11:19:16 -0700, Fester Bestertester <fbt(a)fbt.net> >>wrote: >> >>>> You can do some fun stuff with kapton tape, too. >>> >>>Please elaborate. This sounds like fun! >> >>Here's an EclipsLite gate driving a phemt. The SO-8 sits on a piece of >>kapton tape with cutouts for the leads that solder to copper. Nice and >>planar. Two ugly fingerprints. I really need some gold-plated >>copperclad. > >How about spraying flux on the board first to keep the copper from >corroding? > Messy! For small pieces, you can scotchbrite them, coat them with diluted flux, and slide a big soldering iron around to tin the whole surface. It really doesn't take long. But then wash the sticky flux off. I did part of this board that way: ftp://jjlarkin.lmi.net/Sampler1.JPG John
From: Tim Williams on 11 Apr 2010 14:19 "Nico Coesel" <nico(a)puntnl.niks> wrote in message news:4bc20022.1123833781(a)news.planet.nl... > How about spraying flux on the board first to keep the copper from > corroding? That's actually a bad idea. Most fluxes range from acidic to corrosive, even natural rosin products -- rosin is a mixture of organic acids, so they will attack copper slowly (over years). Ironically, I've never had fingerprints corroded into anything of mine. I've heard that some people have the inverse-midas touch. I don't seem to have it. My fingers just make ordinary sebum (skin oil), which as an oil, is an excellent protector of metal, not a corrosive :-) If you want to be really fancy, a coating of light oil (mineral oil let's say) will keep your boards shiny, if not completely streak- or fingerprint-free, while still remaining solderable. A coat of spray lacquer will, of course, seal the surface nicely, but YMMV tinning it. Tim -- Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms
From: Fester Bestertester on 11 Apr 2010 14:53
> Ironically, I've never had fingerprints corroded into anything of mine. > I've heard that some people have the inverse-midas touch. I don't seem to > have it. My fingers just make ordinary sebum (skin oil), which as an oil, > is an excellent protector of metal, not a corrosive :-) It's probably the salt content of sweat that causes the etching. And that is a variable based on your diet. If you favor salty foods, don't handle your boards... ;-) |