From: John Doe on
Nil <rednoise REMOVETHIScomcast.net> wrote:

> John Doe <jdoe usenetlove.invalid> wrote

>> Maybe not in the Third World, but the days of no binaries on
>> UseNet are definitely gone here.
>
> You have a very limited perspective.

Says someone who cannot cope with small format pictures here on
UseNet. You are living in the past, you are the one with the
limited perspective. In any case, you will just have to cope,
there is nothing you can do about it. Get yourself a real news
server and stop whining about it.

There is nothing wrong with asking the original poster to go to the
trouble to post a link, but (if possible) joining the modern world is
the best solution.
--























>
>> Try AstraWeb.com.
>
> No.
>
>

> Path: news.astraweb.com!border5.newsrouter.astraweb.com!news-
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> From: Nil <rednoise REMOVETHIScomcast.net>
> Newsgroups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
> Subject: Re: Broken heatsink - how to fix - broke.jpg (0/1)
> Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 16:53:31 -0400
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From: John Doe on
Pedro <1(a)2.com> wrote:

> Thanks for answering, that's sounds like it might be a good
> option. Actually it's the chipset we're talking about, not the
> CPU. Maybe it's not so obvious in the picture. Anyway, is it
> safe to use rubbing alcohol to clean them?

Yes, probably 90% would be better than 70%. Compressed air is good
for removing dust.

> And how fine does the sandpaper need to be, I think I have some
> 400 grit lying around.

Good question. There are many different types of super glues. Some
can fill a larger gap. I would guess that a superglue that fills
the smallest possible gap would be best, so there is less
superglue in between the two pieces, but ordinary superglue will
probably work. You want to use fine sandpaper. That 400 sounds
okay, or maybe 600-800. I noticed that you might be able to get
really ultrafine sandpaper in an automotive section or at an auto
parts store. I think they use it for sanding paint/undercoat. You
want to make sure that you do not over sand the thing so that it
is uneven, you want it as flat as possible.

As with many mechanical things, you can find everything you want
to know about superglue at the McMaster-Carr online parts store.

Good luck and have fun.
From: Pedro on

>You can solder the hook back in place. There is no need for thermal epoxy.
>
>The problem with the method, is the original hook, that the spring clip hooks
>onto, is made from the wrong metal. It solders poorly, which is why it pulls
>out of place.
>
>If you purchase a 1/2 watt resistor, and cut the legs off it, the wire from
>that can be used to make a new hook. And the tin-lead finish of the resistor
>leg, solders well, and won't come out.
>
>*******
>
>If you really want to use thermal epoxy, it is *permanent* and cannot be removed.
>
>http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100005
>
>You mix the two components together, and apply it. Once the heatsink
>sets with the epoxy in place, it can never be removed again. If you
>try to remove the heatsink, it will rip the lid off the Northbridge.
>
> Paul


I think I like this idea better than glueing the heatsink to the
chip but I have no experience at all when it comes to soldering. How
much practice would it take to get good enough at it to do a job like
this? How many ways are there to screw up? Do you know of any websites
that have tutorials demonstrating this sort of thing? It wouldn't have
to be this partuclar task, just something similar that would give me a
general idea what to do and what sort of problems I might run into.

thanks a lot for the reply
From: John Doe on
Pedro <1 2.com> wrote:

> I think I like this idea better than glueing the heatsink to the
> chip but I have no experience at all when it comes to soldering.

Gluing it wouldn't be easy either, in case you are looking for a
challenge.

> How much practice would it take to get good enough at it to do a
> job like this? How many ways are there to screw up?

Let me count the ways. You are working with extremely hot stuff
and messy stuff and difficult to remove stuff. I use water soluble
resin solder, it makes for very neat work. You have to know how to
tin the soldering iron tip and to keep it clean while you are
working with it. Soldering has much to do with very inefficient
transfer of heat from the soldering iron tip to the stuff you are
trying to solder.

Looking at the picture, do the holes have solder in them? The pin
looks like it pulled out of the holes. So I am wondering how those
holes are closed? That makes a huge difference for soldering the
thing back into place. If you can just stick the pins through the
hole, soldering is as easy as it can be. If the holes are full of
solder, it can be very difficult. If the holes have broken off
metal leads still in them, it can be impossible without a suction
tool or something to remove the pins first.
--


















> Do you know of any websites
> that have tutorials demonstrating this sort of thing? It wouldn't have
> to be this partuclar task, just something similar that would give me a
> general idea what to do and what sort of problems I might run into.
>
> thanks a lot for the reply
>

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> From: Pedro <1 2.com>
> Newsgroups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
> Subject: Re: Broken heatsink - how to fix - broke.jpg (0/1)
> Message-ID: <q8dqv5d8rfoojjponijh415mumllsndl10 4ax.com>
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> Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 11:03:34 -0400
>
>
From: Paul on
Pedro wrote:
>> You can solder the hook back in place. There is no need for thermal epoxy.
>>
>> The problem with the method, is the original hook, that the spring clip hooks
>> onto, is made from the wrong metal. It solders poorly, which is why it pulls
>> out of place.
>>
>> If you purchase a 1/2 watt resistor, and cut the legs off it, the wire from
>> that can be used to make a new hook. And the tin-lead finish of the resistor
>> leg, solders well, and won't come out.
>>
>> *******
>>
>> If you really want to use thermal epoxy, it is *permanent* and cannot be removed.
>>
>> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100005
>>
>> You mix the two components together, and apply it. Once the heatsink
>> sets with the epoxy in place, it can never be removed again. If you
>> try to remove the heatsink, it will rip the lid off the Northbridge.
>>
>> Paul
>
>
> I think I like this idea better than glueing the heatsink to the
> chip but I have no experience at all when it comes to soldering. How
> much practice would it take to get good enough at it to do a job like
> this? How many ways are there to screw up? Do you know of any websites
> that have tutorials demonstrating this sort of thing? It wouldn't have
> to be this partuclar task, just something similar that would give me a
> general idea what to do and what sort of problems I might run into.
>
> thanks a lot for the reply

Do you have a Radio/TV repair shop close by ? They know how to solder
and do so all day long.

Pull the motherboard.

Bring the heatsink, spring clip, and the old hook with you. Ask them to make
a hook for you, out of a resistor lead or from something they know
will solder well.

You should also prepare the top of the Northbridge chip. A
rice grain sized dab of thermal paste (not glue), should be
present on the top of the chip, just before fitting the
heatsink again. That is to enhance thermal contact between
the aluminum heatsink and the top of the Northbridge. I've been
using the same tube of thermal paste for years, so a little
goes a long way. You can test whether you're using enough,
by applying half a rice grain, push the heatsink onto the
Northbridge, and see how much it spreads out. Clean the surfaces
again, with an alcohol-damped cloth, let it dry, before making the
final application. By "calibrating" the application of the thermal
paste, you're trying to ensure the paste doesn't go all over the
place. It should not be allowed to contact any resistors, capacitors
or other components.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100009

The staff at a Radio/TV shop will have soldering equipment
and can do the work.

Other than that, if you want to do the work yourself, you'd
need a soldering iron, solder wick (to clean up the work
site around where you're going to solder), some resin core
solder (not acid flux, because it can corrode things), and
practice on some other printed circuit board first.

I have a collection of (cheap) soldering irons, and for this
work, I'd probably pick my 80W iron. It all depends on how
much copper plane the hook is embedded in. Large copper
planes act as heat sinks, and prevent the solder joint from
getting to the proper temperature. I have 15W and 25W irons,
and my next size is 80W. The smaller ones probably wouldn't
get hot enough to do a good job on the hook. The Radio/TV shop
will have a soldering station with a temperature controlled
tip, and it does a better job than the cheap soldering irons
I have here at home.

It is too bad there aren't screw holes in the motherboard,
as there would be an alternative if that was the case.
But if all the motherboard comes with, is the holes for the
hooks, you have to use hooks to fix it.

Paul