Fender Twin reverb from 1979
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From: N_Cook on 23 Apr 2010 03:40 Meat Plow <mhywatt(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:3mmn8k.9e0.19.1(a)news.alt.net... > On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:24:57 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse(a)tcp.co.uk>wrote: > > >Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than a > >hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return this > >amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws that > >litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless. Not > >captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of > >both. > >Stamped something like > >CIP-MUL 832 > >54 950 / 075 > >So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp should > >what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then, but not > >fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and replace > >the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions. > >I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The > >owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too > >tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and out > >safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit. > >Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside > >the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock. > > > > Remove the captive nuts and replace with the correct length bolts with > counter-sunk heads and non-captive nuts with a flat washer against the > chassis and star washer on top. This has been done many times > especially when captive nuts are lost as they can pop out easily. Are you a magician. ? The point of captive nuts is no spanner required to turn the nut as there is no access plus easier manufacturing of the chassis. I've found some 4mm captive/caged nuts, that with a bit of coaxing will go into the existing holes in the chassis without enlarging. And 4mm stainless steel bolts of the right length. The 3 screws at the rear are into cabinet wood that may as well be made of paper as far as resisting the weight of 2 large transformers + + in a cantilever action.
From: N_Cook on 23 Apr 2010 03:53 BTW that decayed horse manure or goaty smell inside the amp . What is it they add to winding wire insulation in the US that biologically breaks down with UK damp air or whatever is the cause. No particularly unpleasant but I'd rather the workshop smelled of bakelite or shellac say, rather than a farmyard
From: Phil Allison on 23 Apr 2010 23:16 "Meat Plow" "Phil Allison" >> >> ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear >>output stage. >> >>The chassis looks like this: >> http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg >> The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they >> will >> also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size. > > Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring > to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom. > > And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in > the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread. ** The OP stated his bolts were UNC 8-32, 1.5 inches long and there were no captive nuts - that is exactly what Fender used for many models made in the late 70s and early 80s. Was a big improvement over the previous use of very long bolts that wound up getting bent and were very hard to fit the nuts onto when used near the power tranny. ..... Phil
From: N_Cook on 24 Apr 2010 04:13 Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote in message news:4BD1E983.13E42EFA(a)earthlink.net... > > Meat Plow wrote: > > > > On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:38:49 +1000, "Phil Allison" > > <phil_a(a)tpg.com.au>wrote: > > > > > > > > ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear > > >output stage. > > > > > >The chassis looks like this: > > > > > >http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg > > > > Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring > > to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom. > > > > And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in > > the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread. > > > They are Tinnerman Nuts. > > > -- > Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to > have a DD214, and a honorable discharge. I will add to my UK / USA Tool Terminology Translator file http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tool_terms.htm -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm
From: Ron on 24 Apr 2010 08:45
On 23/04/2010 19:40, Michael A. Terrell wrote: > > Meat Plow wrote: >> >> On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:38:49 +1000, "Phil Allison" >> <phil_a(a)tpg.com.au>wrote: >> >>> >>> ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear >>> output stage. >>> >>> The chassis looks like this: >>> >>> http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg >> >> Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring >> to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom. >> >> And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in >> the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread. > > > They are Tinnerman Nuts. > > Spire Clips in the UK |