Fender Twin reverb from 1979
in [Repair]
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From: N_Cook on 22 Apr 2010 12:24 Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than a hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return this amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws that litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless. Not captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of both. Stamped something like CIP-MUL 832 54 950 / 075 So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp should what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then, but not fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and replace the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions. I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and out safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit. Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock.
From: N_Cook on 23 Apr 2010 10:10 Meat Plow <mhywatt(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:3moo2r.gb2.19.9(a)news.alt.net... > On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:40:38 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse(a)tcp.co.uk>wrote: > > >Meat Plow <mhywatt(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message > >news:3mmn8k.9e0.19.1(a)news.alt.net... > >> On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:24:57 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse(a)tcp.co.uk>wrote: > >> > >> >Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than > >a > >> >hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return > >this > >> >amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws > >that > >> >litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless. > >Not > >> >captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of > >> >both. > >> >Stamped something like > >> >CIP-MUL 832 > >> >54 950 / 075 > >> >So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp should > >> >what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then, but > >not > >> >fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and replace > >> >the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions. > >> >I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The > >> >owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too > >> >tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and > >out > >> >safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit. > >> >Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside > >> >the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock. > >> > > >> > >> Remove the captive nuts and replace with the correct length bolts with > >> counter-sunk heads and non-captive nuts with a flat washer against the > >> chassis and star washer on top. This has been done many times > >> especially when captive nuts are lost as they can pop out easily. > > > >Are you a magician. ? The point of captive nuts is no spanner required to > >turn the nut as there is no access plus easier manufacturing of the chassis. > >I've found some 4mm captive/caged nuts, that with a bit of coaxing will go > >into the existing holes in the chassis without enlarging. And 4mm stainless > >steel bolts of the right length. The 3 screws at the rear are into cabinet > >wood that may as well be made of paper as far as resisting the weight of 2 > >large transformers + + in a cantilever action. > > > > I've held regular nuts in my fingertips while threading them onto > screws in Fender combos many, many times. It's not magic but requires > a degree of manual dexterity. Once the nut contacts the star washer it > can be released and the screw tightened from above. If there is enough > room to get your fingertips on the end of the screw there's enough > room to do it this way. Either you have scissor-hands or these are not original screws. These nuts are internal of the chassis, not on an external ledge. Overall length 37mm . Width of cab and spreader plates 25mm , 2mm chassis thickness leaving you with 37 minus 27 mm to get fingers in and long enough to reach the front ones. 10mm or 3/8 inch
From: Phil Allison on 23 Apr 2010 10:38 ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear output stage. The chassis looks like this: http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they will also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size. The three holes in the back edge take self tapping screws driven into the top of the cabinet and will hold the chassis solidly in place *on their own*. You lying fuckwit. .... Phil
From: Michael A. Terrell on 23 Apr 2010 14:40 Meat Plow wrote: > > On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:38:49 +1000, "Phil Allison" > <phil_a(a)tpg.com.au>wrote: > > > > > ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear > >output stage. > > > >The chassis looks like this: > > > >http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg > > Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring > to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom. > > And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in > the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread. They are Tinnerman Nuts. -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
From: Phil Allison on 22 Apr 2010 22:43
"Nutcase _Kook" > Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than a > hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return > this > amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws > that > litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless. Not > captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of > both. ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear output stage. The chassis looks like this: http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they will also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size. The three holes in the back edge take self tapping screws driven into the top of the cabinet and will hold the chassis solidly in place *on their own*. > The > owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too > tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and out > safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit. > Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside > the amp for any later purists. ** The red voltage selector knob merely has to be removed to eliminate the hazard. ...... Phil |