Fluorescent ballasts anyone?
in [Design]
|
Prev: Tank Depth
Next: New Book of Rules
From: Mike Monett on 7 Jul 2006 17:22 Zak <jute(a)zak.invalid> wrote: > Mike Monett wrote: >> http://www.appliedozone.com/pz_series.html >> However, I was under the impression that UV was not a very efficient >> method of making ozone, especially considering it has to make enough >> to treat an entire pool. > And AFAIK ozone and water turns into hydrogen peroxide - H2O2. Which > you could just add to the water. > Thomas I'm not sure that would help. H2O2 is very interesting, but not many sites recommend using it to kill bacteria. US Peroxide is one of the largest manufacturers of H2O2, and their applications regarding H2O2 used with drinking water are to destroy the ozone used to disinfect it. See SURFACE WATER TREATMENT Taste & Odor Removal / Ozone Enhancement Residual Ozone Destruction http://www.h2o2.com/applications/municipaldrinkingwater.html Also, natural sunlight generates H2O2 in water due to the UV energy. See Safe - Despite its power, H2O2 is a natural metabolite of many organisms, which decompose the H2O2 they produce into oxygen and water. H2O2 is also formed by the action of sunlight on water - a natural purification system for our environment. Consequently, H2O2 has none of the problems of gaseous release or chemical residues that are associated with other chemical oxidants. And since H2O2 is totally miscible with water, the issue of safety is one of concentration. Industrial strength H2O2 is a strong oxidizer and as such requires special handling precautions. Versatile - The fact that H2O2 is used for seemingly converse applications proves its versatility. For example, it can inhibit microbial growth (as in the biofouling of water circuits) and encourage microbial growth (as in the bioremediation of contaminated groundwaters and soils). Similarly, it can treat both easy-to-oxidize pollutants (iron and sulfides) and difficult to oxidize pollutants (solvents, gasolines and pesticides). Selective - The reason why H2O2 can be used for such diverse applications is the different ways in which its power can be directed -- termed selectivity. By simply adjusting the conditions of the reaction (e.g., pH, temperature, dose, reaction time, and/or catalyst addition), H2O2 can often be made to oxidize one pollutant over another, or even to favor different oxidation products from the same pollutant http://www.h2o2.com/intro/overview.html It does say H2O2 can be used to control, or to stimulate microbial growth. So you would have to figure out which you want to do, and what it takes to accomplish it. But it looks like you don't want to add H2O2 upstream of the ozone injector to prevent destroying the ozone, and just let normal UV radiation from the sun make it in the pool. Regards, Mike Monett
From: Jeff L on 8 Jul 2006 14:08 "Chris Jones" <lugnut808(a)nospam.yahoo.com> wrote in message news:12ar77l89rcb4e4(a)corp.supernews.com... > Sergey Kubushin wrote: > > [snip] > > ...Another problem is that its powered with 220V, not > > regular 120V. There are some 277V ballasts at Home Depot, will they work > > on 220V? Do those T5 germicidal bulb filaments work at the same voltage as > > T8 and T12, i.e. can I use e.g. T12 Rapid Start Ballast? > [snip] > > If it is hard to get 220V ballasts in the US then I would suggest getting > some ballasts from a European E-bay seller or something like that. There > are some German guys selling lots of interesting lighting equipment. As > far as I know, the fluorescent tubes are the same, just the ballasts are > different for 220V-240V countries and 120V countries. Perhaps someone else > could confirm or deny this. > > Chris I know that the tubes that use a simple magnetic ballast and an a igniter of some sort are different - I imported some equipment that had a setup like this and was set up for European power. The bulbs would work fine off 208V 60Hz using the original setup. They would not ignite off of an instant start electronic ballast designed for T8's and T12's. There were some smaller fixtures with T8's, and they seem to be the same, and work fine after a ballast change.
From: Jeff L on 8 Jul 2006 14:18 Go to google, type in: 40W t5 ballast - you should get a ton of hits relating to usable ballasts. 40W means the electrical power, and T5 denotes, the tube's electrical characteristics. The rest of your bulb type does not matter, electrically, since that is the light output type, coatings, rated life, and physical size and shape of the tube, pins, etc. The other option is to ask the company where you bought the tubes what ballast to use. Jeff "Sergey Kubushin" <ksi(a)koi8.net> wrote in message news:e8f6ou$9vr$1(a)nntp.aioe.org... > Hi everybody! > > Does anybody here know intimate fluorescent bulbs/ballasts details? > > I'm trying to fix my pool ozon generator and it turned out to be much > tougher job than I expected... First of all, that pool ozonator business is > a big conspiracy :(( My generator is made by some canadian company called > Ultra Pure Water, model SPP70. It's less than 2 years old but already almost > impossible to fix... > > The generator itself is very simple - a length of aluminum profile with 2 > Ozone Producing 40W 30" T5 Germicidal bulbs and corresponding ballasts and > starters. The problem is my pool builders don't want to fix it suggesting I > have to find those bulbs and replace them myself. OK, it didn't look like > rocket science so I started digging. > > First it turned out that it's almost impossible to find an Ozone Producing > Bulb, everybody cares about our health so 99.99% of all germicidal bulbs > available are proudly "No ozone", i.e. made with doped quartz blocking that > 185 nm ozone producing line. Those who do have such bulbs charge for each > one more than original weirdo with two bulbs were worth. And what's even > worse nobody tells you what's their bulbs are - they are "Replacement bulb > for Acme Aquatic model X.Y.Z-0121-x.y.z" and that's all. > > After an entire day spent in the Net I learned that one company, > Aqua-something, claims that they are using Ozone Producing bulbs in their > sterilizers so I bought 2 of those of appropriate size and wattage and with > a little bit of metalworking installed them into that "Ozone Generator". > > To my astonishment they didn't start! I didn't check all the parts before > installing them because I was 100% sure that that was bulbs that failed. As > a matter of fact those two already non-working bulbs did have burnt > filaments. But as it turned out two ballast also went south, they are both > open. This is the simplest type of fixture, 2 wire magnetic ballast, a bulb > with two filaments and a glow tube starter. Both ballasts look OK, no signs > of overheating or burn marks. Just open ... > > So I decided to replace that ancient circuit with a more modern 2-bulb > ballast and that's where I've got confused and have to ask for a collective > wisdom... > > Those ozone bulbs are T5 size but they are not those new T5 sophisticated > bulbs, they are listed as preheat type and their working current is 425mA. > Now I'm trying to find a suitable ballast and I'm totally lost - it looks > like there thousands of different ballasts out there and I don't know which > one to choose :(( > > First of all, I didn't find what is the working current for regular T12, T8, > T5 bulbs. What I was able to find were unconvincing. So does anyone know > what is the working current of regular T12, T8, and T5 bulbs? It looks like > those old T12 ones were working at 430mA so I should be able to use a 40W > T12 ballast for those germicidal bulbs. Am I right or I'm missing something > and bulb current is not enough and I should look for something else? Can I > use a rapid start ballast or should I stick with the old preheat variety? > Another problem is that its powered with 220V, not regular 120V. There are > some 277V ballasts at Home Depot, will they work on 220V? Do those T5 > germicidal bulb filaments work at the same voltage as T8 and T12, i.e. can I > use e.g. T12 Rapid Start Ballast? > > And one more question, how can one use a dimming electronic ballast? It has > two separate grey wires for dimming so it seems to be that 0-10V type > (Made by Prescott). I can't find what makes it 100% brightness, 0V or 10V? > If I want to use it as a regular non-dimming ballast, should I short those > grey wires, live them unconnected or feed them with 10V DC (as I understand > polarity doesn't matter 'coz both wires are grey)? > > Any information is highly appreciated... > > --- > ****************************************************************** > * KSI(a)home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. * > * Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. * > ******************************************************************
From: Sergey Kubushin on 8 Jul 2006 14:38 Jeff L <levy_jeff(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > Go to google, type in: 40W t5 ballast - you should get a ton of hits > relating to usable ballasts. 40W means the electrical power, and T5 denotes, > the tube's electrical characteristics. The rest of your bulb type does not > matter, electrically, since that is the light output type, coatings, rated > life, and physical size and shape of the tube, pins, etc. It does. Germicidal T5 bulbs are very different from regular T5s. Electrically different. Despite having the same diameter. They will NOT work (at least reliably) with regular T5 ballast. However they DO work fine with a regular T12 ballast be it switch start, rapid or instant start, magnetic or electronic. I do already run a couple of G36T5VH bulbs off of $20 electronic 2 x 48W T12 instant start ballast (Workhorse) and they are fine. I did also run a couple of preheat T5 germicidal bulbs with $18 Electronic Rapid Start 2 x 40W T12 ballast from Home Depot and they are also quite happy. Those germicidal lamps, if they are regular, not HO or VHO, all have 425 mA working current. Regular T5s are different and they are not designed to run from anything but high frequency electronic ballast at all. Regular T12 are usually run at 430 mA. T12 HO are 800 mA (exactly as germicidal T5 HO) and T12 VHO are 1.5 A (exactly as germicidal T5 VHO.) > The other option is to ask the company where you bought the tubes what > ballast to use. > > Jeff > > "Sergey Kubushin" <ksi(a)koi8.net> wrote in message > news:e8f6ou$9vr$1(a)nntp.aioe.org... >> Hi everybody! >> >> Does anybody here know intimate fluorescent bulbs/ballasts details? >> >> I'm trying to fix my pool ozon generator and it turned out to be much >> tougher job than I expected... First of all, that pool ozonator business > is >> a big conspiracy :(( My generator is made by some canadian company called >> Ultra Pure Water, model SPP70. It's less than 2 years old but already > almost >> impossible to fix... >> >> The generator itself is very simple - a length of aluminum profile with 2 >> Ozone Producing 40W 30" T5 Germicidal bulbs and corresponding ballasts and >> starters. The problem is my pool builders don't want to fix it suggesting > I >> have to find those bulbs and replace them myself. OK, it didn't look like >> rocket science so I started digging. >> >> First it turned out that it's almost impossible to find an Ozone Producing >> Bulb, everybody cares about our health so 99.99% of all germicidal bulbs >> available are proudly "No ozone", i.e. made with doped quartz blocking > that >> 185 nm ozone producing line. Those who do have such bulbs charge for each >> one more than original weirdo with two bulbs were worth. And what's even >> worse nobody tells you what's their bulbs are - they are "Replacement bulb >> for Acme Aquatic model X.Y.Z-0121-x.y.z" and that's all. >> >> After an entire day spent in the Net I learned that one company, >> Aqua-something, claims that they are using Ozone Producing bulbs in their >> sterilizers so I bought 2 of those of appropriate size and wattage and > with >> a little bit of metalworking installed them into that "Ozone Generator". >> >> To my astonishment they didn't start! I didn't check all the parts before >> installing them because I was 100% sure that that was bulbs that failed. > As >> a matter of fact those two already non-working bulbs did have burnt >> filaments. But as it turned out two ballast also went south, they are both >> open. This is the simplest type of fixture, 2 wire magnetic ballast, a > bulb >> with two filaments and a glow tube starter. Both ballasts look OK, no > signs >> of overheating or burn marks. Just open ... >> >> So I decided to replace that ancient circuit with a more modern 2-bulb >> ballast and that's where I've got confused and have to ask for a > collective >> wisdom... >> >> Those ozone bulbs are T5 size but they are not those new T5 sophisticated >> bulbs, they are listed as preheat type and their working current is 425mA. >> Now I'm trying to find a suitable ballast and I'm totally lost - it looks >> like there thousands of different ballasts out there and I don't know > which >> one to choose :(( >> >> First of all, I didn't find what is the working current for regular T12, > T8, >> T5 bulbs. What I was able to find were unconvincing. So does anyone know >> what is the working current of regular T12, T8, and T5 bulbs? It looks > like >> those old T12 ones were working at 430mA so I should be able to use a 40W >> T12 ballast for those germicidal bulbs. Am I right or I'm missing > something >> and bulb current is not enough and I should look for something else? Can I >> use a rapid start ballast or should I stick with the old preheat variety? >> Another problem is that its powered with 220V, not regular 120V. There are >> some 277V ballasts at Home Depot, will they work on 220V? Do those T5 >> germicidal bulb filaments work at the same voltage as T8 and T12, i.e. can > I >> use e.g. T12 Rapid Start Ballast? >> >> And one more question, how can one use a dimming electronic ballast? It > has >> two separate grey wires for dimming so it seems to be that 0-10V type >> (Made by Prescott). I can't find what makes it 100% brightness, 0V or 10V? >> If I want to use it as a regular non-dimming ballast, should I short those >> grey wires, live them unconnected or feed them with 10V DC (as I > understand >> polarity doesn't matter 'coz both wires are grey)? >> >> Any information is highly appreciated... >> >> --- >> ****************************************************************** >> * KSI(a)home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. * >> * Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. * >> ****************************************************************** > > --- ****************************************************************** * KSI(a)home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. * * Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. * ******************************************************************
From: joseph2k on 10 Jul 2006 00:48
Eeyore wrote: > > > Sergey Kubushin wrote: > >> Hi everybody! >> >> Does anybody here know intimate fluorescent bulbs/ballasts details? >> >> I'm trying to fix my pool ozon generator and it turned out to be much >> tougher job than I expected... First of all, that pool ozonator business is >> a big conspiracy :(( > > And you expect to get taken seriously now ? > > Graham You haven't dipped your wick in ozone producing lamps have you? Really read the posts and learn. Do OP a favor and google before posting pure opinion. -- JosephKK Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens. --Schiller |