How to shrink heat shrink tubing?
in [Repair]
|
From: Winston on 10 May 2010 15:35 On 5/10/2010 9:24 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: > I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to > shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for > removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved > here. > > I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over > a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter > ends up with burnt plastic. :-) > > Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not > toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is > about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires. Just as a point of reference, this tool appears to be about perfect for you: eBay 300417780799 STEINEL (230 volts) HL1810S HOT AIR/HEAT GUN --Winston
From: Sjouke Burry on 10 May 2010 15:50 Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: > I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to > shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for > removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved > here. > > I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over > a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter > ends up with burnt plastic. :-) > > Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not > toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is > about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires. > > > Thanks in advance, > > Geoff. Whatever way you heat it, use teflon shrinck tubing. You cant increase its blackness, and it shrinks to 1/3rd dia. And does not melt/burn until over 450 degree Celcius.
From: Ron on 10 May 2010 16:05 On 10/05/2010 20:35, Winston wrote: > On 5/10/2010 9:24 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: >> I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and >> need to >> shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for >> removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved >> here. >> >> I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding >> it over >> a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter >> ends up with burnt plastic. :-) >> >> Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not >> toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is >> about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires. > > Just as a point of reference, this tool appears to be > about perfect for you: > > eBay 300417780799 > > STEINEL (230 volts) HL1810S HOT AIR/HEAT GUN > > --Winston That`s the one I use, no complaints. It was nowhere near that price tho! Ron(UK)
From: Wild_Bill on 10 May 2010 17:06 If you're referring to 2-wire AC power cords for double-insulated applications, you might want to look around for cooking appliance cords with a very rubbery covering. These are a specific type of heat resistant cord, intended for moderate current (not light duty) heat generating appliances like roasters, waffle irons and similar units. These cords wouldn't get stiff even if placed in a freezer.. like real rubber, not plastic. I'm regularly annoyed by various types of signal connecting cords that are so stiff they keep their original bends even after use. I keep finding USB and video or low voltage cords that are a nuisance to use because they're extremely rigid, more like poly air hose than a low voltage cord. -- Cheers, WB .............. "Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl(a)cruzio.com> wrote in message news:mvggu5l7op05bg4upqo9c0qu56f8ugppi6(a)4ax.com... > Hot air gun with an assortment of tips and adapters. If you need to > protect other components, just block the air flow with some aluminum > foil. > > However, one stupid problem. I bought two ACE Hardware hot air guns: > <http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1310859> > which work well enough. However, the power cord is VERY stiff. The > gun is quite light and the spring tension of the cord frequently > causes the gun to move when placed on the table. As the tip remains > hot for quite some time, having it move by itself around the table can > do some serious damage. I've ruined the plastic on several devices > before I was forced to build a holder (tin can screwed to a wood > board). Normally, I would normally suggest finding a hot air gun that > has a reasonably flexible power cord, but that seems to be difficult. > I've looked at various equivalent hot air guns and all seem to have > VERY stiff power cords. > > High end heat guns, such as: > <http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=1944LCDK> > don't have this problem, and add much better temperature control, but > cost much more than I want to spend (about $150). > > > -- > Jeff Liebermann jeffl(a)cruzio.com > 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
From: Jeff Liebermann on 10 May 2010 17:59
On Mon, 10 May 2010 17:06:51 -0400, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill(a)XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote: >If you're referring to 2-wire AC power cords for double-insulated >applications, you might want to look around for cooking appliance cords with >a very rubbery covering. The rubber (RHW or RHH) cords seem to work best. Unfortunately, most cheap plastic cords have an intergrated strain relief molded into the plastic, making replacement with a different type of cord rather tedious. >These are a specific type of heat resistant cord, intended for moderate >current (not light duty) heat generating appliances like roasters, waffle >irons and similar units. >These cords wouldn't get stiff even if placed in a freezer.. like real >rubber, not plastic. Good idea. I have a roll of 3 conductor 14AWG RHW for replacing power tool cords and extension cords. I never thought of using it for kitchen appliances. Ummm... why would I put something electrical in the freezer? Never mind, I don't want to know. >I'm regularly annoyed by various types of signal connecting cords that are >so stiff they keep their original bends even after use. >I keep finding USB and video or low voltage cords that are a nuisance to use >because they're extremely rigid, more like poly air hose than a low voltage >cord. Yep. Same problem. There's a customer perception that a thicker cord somehow signifies a high power or high current device. It's common for laser printers and copiers to arrive with huge diameter cords, that are mostly plastic, not copper. Compared to the common power cord of half the diameter, the wire guages inside are identical. Of course, the added plastic makes them rigid, inflexible, difficult to manage, and impossible to coil. With video and USB, the problem is not the plastic but the shielding. There's no easy way to provide superior shielding and still have a flexible cord. Braid is more flexible than foil, but foil has better coverage. The exception is non-wicking braid, where the plastic jacket is molded into the braid, which can be used to hammer nails. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl(a)cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |