From: Michael A. Terrell on

larry moe 'n curly wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > larry moe 'n curly wrote:
> >
> > <http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html>
> > $19.99 regular price. On sale for $9.99 at times.
> >
> > I received their weekly e-mail right after I posted. It is on sale
> > for $7.99 with the coupon below:
> >
> > http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/wkend0517/images/2.jpg
> >
> > Here is the user manual:
> >
> > http://images.harborfreight.com/manuals/96000-96999/96289.pdf
> >
> > > The diode in series with the heating element is a 1N5408, rated
> > > for 3 amps average. The heater draws 8A average on low.
> > >
> > > So my question is, how long will this 3A diode last?
>
> > That 3 A rating is for continuous duty at
> > a high operating temperature, not intermittent. The peak current rating
> > is 200A. The case would likely melt before the diode would fail.
> >
> > > Doesn't the continuous amp rating for a diode apply for any load
> > > lasting more than something like one 60 Hz cycle (or half-cycle?). I
> > > normally run a heat gun a lot longer than that, ;) maybe up to 2
> > > minutes at a time.
> >
> > Have you used it for that two minutes? That should answer your
> > question, and show that it takes more than two minutes to damage it. :)
> >
> > It takes time to heat the junction in the diode. The heat is
> > produced only when forward biased, and is from the forward voltage drop,
> > times the current flow. The higher the current, the faster it heats.
> > Since a heat gun usually gets very intermittent duty in low heat mode,
> > it works.
> >
> > If it can handle a couple 200 amp half cycles while charging an
> > electrolytic in a piece of electronic equipment, it can handle the extra
> > current for the heating element even though it is above the 3A
> > continuous rating.
> >
> > It looks like the motor is run from a tap on the heating element.
> > There is no schematic in the manual. I only saw the one diode, across
> > the switch in mine. Also, how often will you use one on low heat? I
> > rarely do, usually only when I accidentally hit the wrong end of the
> > rocker switch.
> >
> > BTW, if that diode fails, all it will do is make it run at full heat
> > in either 'ON' position.
>
> I'll bet customers will either not notice that the gun always puts out
> full power (diode shorts), or they won't care that it doesn't work at
> low heat (diode opens). I checked a few different items, including
> some cheapo PC power supplies, and couldn't find any where the diodes
> were underrated so much


The usual failure mode would be shorted, unless the internal
connection fractured and separated.


> I bought this heat gun to desolder surface mount stuff, and it seems
> that its low setting puts out temperatures closer to what hot air
> soldering equipment does.


I prefer full heat for that job. I just keep it a little further
away from the board. I see less damage to boards that way. I used to
have a 6" solder pot that I would float a scrap board on, then use a
pair of pliers on the corner to smack it against something to eject all
the molten solder. I recycled thousands of 256 kb memory ICs back in
the '80s at $2.75 each. There was a huge shortage of new ICs, so they
sold as fast as I could pull them and re-tin the leads.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
From: David on
In article <8h5ku595n5519poblj8a724md77gbhtnbl(a)4ax.com>,
mm <NOPSAMmm2005(a)bigfoot.com> wrote:

> On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
> <gsm(a)cable.mendelson.com> wrote:
>
> >I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
> >shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
> >removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
> >here.
> >
>
A cheap and easy way is to buy a hair dryer from one of the thrift shops
- probably cost you a $1 or so, and does the job.

David
From: David on
In article <hsepor0qk1(a)enews6.newsguy.com>,
mzenier(a)eskimo.com (Mark Zenier) wrote:

> In article <slrnhugcn1.e0e.gsm(a)cable.mendelson.com>,
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson <gsm(a)mendelson.com> wrote:
> >I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
> >shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
> >removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
> >here.
> >
> >I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
> >a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
> >ends up with burnt plastic. :-)
> >
> >Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
> >toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
> >about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.
>
> For cable assemblies, I've found that nothing beats a Sunbeam toaster.
> Turns itself off, too. You don't have to put it down into the slot,
> just hold it over the top.
>
> The trick with lighters is to keep the shrink about 1 1/2 to 2 inches
> above the top of the flame.
>
>
> Mark Zenier mzenier(a)eskimo.com
> Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

I haven't tried it, but I reckon you could get an old pair of pliers -
heat em up on the stove then gently grip the heat shrink with the hot
jaws - might be worth a try

David
From: Dave Platt on
> Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
> toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
> about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

You can buy small butane-powered torches, with a variety of tips. The
one I bought has a flame tip, a catalytic-heater soldering tip, and a
catalytic-heater hot-air jet. The latter works very well for doing
small heat-shrinking jobs - with the torch turned down to minimum gas
flow it produces a rather delicate and controllable jet of hot air
which can heat the tubing without roasting things nearby.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt(a)radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!