Indoor Volleyball pictures - advice needed
in [Digital Cameras]
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From: Steve Cutchen on 15 Jan 2007 22:30 In article <150120072113418465%maxfaq(a)earthlink.net>, Steve Cutchen <maxfaq(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > Technique A few other things I thought of. Think about what makes a good shot. Sometimes, the best shot is not at the point of ball contact. For example, Shoot the server when the ball is at its apex. Shoot the outside hitter when they are "fully loaded", just before the swing starts forward. Get the setter just after the set is gone, and you'll have a good chance of getting the attackers looking to the ball in anticipation. Shoot two players as they are subbing in for each other. Try to get the excitment of a player AFTER they make a great play. Get the outside when she's screaming after the line shot past the double block! Get the high fives after the ace serve. Get the bench as they are in mid rise to their feet. Get the player's concentration before the opponent serves. Get the fans. Get... the idea? heh.
From: JC Dill on 16 Jan 2007 10:45 On 15 Jan 2007 18:07:32 GMT, Eric Babula <ebabula(a)care2.com> wrote: >As for the lens - you're right, I didn't want a fixed focal length, just >yet. I'm not sure at what length I'd typically be shooting, so I chose >the zoom for now. And, I know I didn't get a really fast lens, either. >But, I was told that with the Pentax K100D and the in-body IS, an f4.0 >lens would act more like an f2.8 in another camera. The guy in the >camera store was convinced I'd be able to get very good pics with this >camera and these lenses, and not have to upgrade to something much more >expensive. We discussed more expensive cameras (Nikon D70, D200, Pentax >K10D), but he convinced me that this camera and these lenses would make >me very happy. He lied. If what you want to do is take sports photos in low light you need a very fast lens AND IS. IS alone only helps you get low-light photos of things that aren't moving. It won't stop motion blur from a moving subject. A faster lens will let you use a faster shutter speed to stop the motion blur you get when shooting sports. I use 1/400 to shoot indoor sports. I started with a 300D and a 70-200 IS f2.8 L lens. The lens cost 1.5x what the body cost. I have since upgraded the body (Canon 1D MII). jc -- "The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA
From: JC Dill on 16 Jan 2007 10:49 On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 16:37:51 -0500, ASAAR <caught(a)22.com> wrote: >First, the IS generally reduces >movement enough so that you get 2 or 3 extra stops of exposure to >play with, and whether you want to take advantage of stops of >aperture or shutter speed is up to you. This only works when your lens HAS 2-3 extra stops to play with. His lens was 5.6 at max zoom. If he had been using a faster lens, he could have opened up his lens 2-3 stops and in doing so had a faster shutter speed by the same amount. For instance, if he was shooting at f5.6 at 1/100, he could have opened up the aperture to f4 and shot at 1/200, or opened to f2.8 and shot at 1/400. Bingo - now he can stop the motion blur! IS will also help to offset camera blur caused by moving the camera quickly to catch and follow the action. jc -- "The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA
From: Cynicor on 16 Jan 2007 10:55 JC Dill wrote: > On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 16:37:51 -0500, ASAAR <caught(a)22.com> wrote: > >> First, the IS generally reduces >> movement enough so that you get 2 or 3 extra stops of exposure to >> play with, and whether you want to take advantage of stops of >> aperture or shutter speed is up to you. > > This only works when your lens HAS 2-3 extra stops to play with. His > lens was 5.6 at max zoom. If he had been using a faster lens, he > could have opened up his lens 2-3 stops and in doing so had a faster > shutter speed by the same amount. For instance, if he was shooting at > f5.6 at 1/100, he could have opened up the aperture to f4 and shot at > 1/200, or opened to f2.8 and shot at 1/400. Bingo - now he can stop > the motion blur! IS will also help to offset camera blur caused by > moving the camera quickly to catch and follow the action. One of the things that you should train yourself to do when you're shooting sports is to anticipate the action instead of following it. If I see a breakaway developing, I'll prefocus on the goalie so that when the action hits, I'll be able to squeeze off a couple of shots in a row without adjusting anything.
From: JC Dill on 16 Jan 2007 11:02
On 15 Jan 2007 20:45:06 GMT, Eric Babula <ebabula(a)care2.com> wrote: >To your point #3: Cynicor mentioned that I should turn off the IS, >"because the speeds at which IS makes a difference are too slow to >freeze the play. So there won't be any hand shake, but there'll be >action blur." I've read that before, too. Does this make sense to you, >too? I don't turn off IS unless I'm shooting at a *very* fast lens speed. In general, one can get sharp images if one is *carefully* hand holding a telephoto lens and shooting at 1/lens length - e.g 1/200 for a 200 mm lens. But I can't and don't "carefully hand hold" a telephoto lens when shooting action sports. I am constantly moving the camera to follow the action and frame the shot. As such I need 2-3 more stops before the shutter is fast enough to freeze the image despite the moving camera. With a 200 mm lens that takes me from 1/200 to 1/400 (1 stop) to 1/800 (2 stops) to 1/1600 (3 stops). I almost never shoot at 1/1600 because I want more depth of field to bring all of my subject into focus. I shoot at 1/400 to 1/800 mostly, and try to get f5.6 or f8 to bring my whole subject (horses mostly) into focus. So I still use and benefit from the IS on my lens. jc -- "The nice thing about a mare is you get to ride a lot of different horses without having to own that many." ~ Eileen Morgan of The Mare's Nest, PA |