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From: John Doe on 10 Feb 2010 20:04
Paul <nospam(a)needed.com> wrote:

....

> Intel QST... Allows CPU fan speed to be controlled by the Intel
> Quiet System Technology (QST). This feature requires the
> installation of Intel Host Embedded Control Interface (HECI)
> driver from the motherboard driver disk.
>
> Legacy... Allows CPU fan to run at different speed according to
> the CPU temperature.

> I have no clue, as to why you'd need a "HECI driver". That
> implies the control method depends on the host CPU. I thought
> QST relied on the Management Engine, which should need no
> driver. Unless the HECI driver allows controlling QST from the
> OS ?

Personally, QST (whatever it is) makes no sense to me anyway. I
would think that everyone would want their CPU fan to run
according to the CPU temperature. If it were too loud, then I
would do something other than stopping the CPU fan from running
according to CPU temperature.

> For example, I found some software here. Maybe this will work.
> (I checked inside this and it is just a driver. No utility with
> GUI is provided.)

How did you do that and tell that it has no GUI? Mainly curious.

> "Intel ME: Management Engine Driver for Intel 3 Series
> Chipset-Based Desktop Boards"

I recall trying that. I will post any experience with the
mentioned utilities.

Thanks.
From: Paul on 10 Feb 2010 20:34
John Doe wrote:

>
>> For example, I found some software here. Maybe this will work.
>> (I checked inside this and it is just a driver. No utility with
>> GUI is provided.)
>
> How did you do that and tell that it has no GUI? Mainly curious.

I use 7ZIP on a lot of the stuff I download, and I can see just driver
type files in there.

7ZIP would be the perfect tool, if only it could crack a few more
packaging formats. Installshield for one.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7zip

Paul
From: John Doe on 16 Feb 2010 17:13
> I will post any experience with the mentioned utilities.

Now posting from my secondary PC.
:(
At first, naturally I thought the BIOS was broken. Symptoms seemed to
get worse over time and trials, down to the point that the CPU (fan)
was spinning up when the PS on/off switch was flipped on, and then it
went off, and then it repeated the same over and over again. Of course
the PC was stripped down to the bare essentials. Fired up my spare PC.
Moved the DVD drive into it, to see if a long standing problem with its
door not properely closing would occure. It closed just fine. Now I am
wondering if the problem could (coincidently) be the PS instead of the
mainboard. Wish I could test the older PS on the new MB, but it has
only an old 20 pin MB connector. I could test the newer PS on the old
MB, but not sure I want to risk it.

Anybody know if the same power suply output that powers the DVD drive
door also powers the CPU? Both 12v?

Thanks.
From: Paul on 16 Feb 2010 20:41
John Doe wrote:
>> I will post any experience with the mentioned utilities.
>
> Now posting from my secondary PC.
> :(
> At first, naturally I thought the BIOS was broken. Symptoms seemed to
> get worse over time and trials, down to the point that the CPU (fan)
> was spinning up when the PS on/off switch was flipped on, and then it
> went off, and then it repeated the same over and over again. Of course
> the PC was stripped down to the bare essentials. Fired up my spare PC.
> Moved the DVD drive into it, to see if a long standing problem with its
> door not properely closing would occure. It closed just fine. Now I am
> wondering if the problem could (coincidently) be the PS instead of the
> mainboard. Wish I could test the older PS on the new MB, but it has
> only an old 20 pin MB connector. I could test the newer PS on the old
> MB, but not sure I want to risk it.
>
> Anybody know if the same power suply output that powers the DVD drive
> door also powers the CPU? Both 12v?
>
> Thanks.

Do you have a multimeter you can test with ?

*******

Yes, it is possible the same rail powers both. An experienced power supply
person, can tell by looking at the innards. Sites like jonnyguru.com sometimes
delve into the details of individual designs. There is one other web site
that takes apart power supply for analysis purposes.

A single output rail can be connected to all 12V loads (pcpower.com approach).

A single output rail can have current limiter circuits inserted in each
12V output leg, to simulate independent outputs. I expect that is a common
design technique now, as it is cheaper to make and has most of the
desired safety features. It seems to be the design intent of the ATX 2.2 spec.

A power supply can have multiple, independent outputs. A giveaway is the
power supply chassis may be a lot longer than normal. If you look at the
average power supply today, they're back to "normal" size, which implies
a return to one monstrous output, plus some current limiters for protection
purposes. Some guys can tell you exactly how it works, by looking at the guts,
but I can't always pick apart the different types. "Larry", who posts here
regularly, knows them a lot better than I do.

*******

The main reason for wanting to plug a 24 pin main power connector
into any board, is for SLI or Crossfire video card configurations.
(And SLI or Crossfire implies a PCI Express motherboard.)
The motherboard 12V rail may be heavily enough loaded there, to want
the second yellow wire a 24 pin connector gives you.

For single video card or no video card applications, a 20 pin connector
can be used on a 24 pin motherboard. And even the vice-versa case is allowed,
you can plug a 24 pin into a 20 pin, as long as you can figure out the pinout.
A lot of 24 pin connectors, can be split into two pieces, at the hinge between
the two sections. For those supplies that don't hinge, as long as there aren't
tall components in the way, you can plug a 24 pin into a 20 pin motherboard.

This picture, is of a 24 pin, plugged into a 20 pin motherboard. As long as
there is no electrolytic cap right next to the 20 pin, to bump into the four
"overhang" pins, it will fit.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/24in20.jpg

This picture is a 20 pin power supply and a 24 pin motherboard, valid
as long as there is just one PCI Express video card installed (rough rule of thumb).

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/20in24.jpg

In neither case, is an adapter cable required. An adapter cable doesn't solve
any electrical problems. An adapter cable is good if you need additional cable
length, and the harness on the power supply happens to be too short.

So most of the motherboard requirements are met just fine, with the lowly 20 pin
connector.

*******

If you need specs, this is my spec list. But this doesn't describe in detail,
how the power supply company must design what is inside. They have a lot of
flexibility in what they can do. And what is printed on the spec label, isn't
guaranteed to elucidate the architecture inside. (When it says "12V1" and
"12V2", they could both be coming from the same output side thing.)

http://web.archive.org/web/20030424061333/http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX_ATX12V_PS_1_1.pdf

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX12V_1_3dg.pdf

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf

Paul
From: John Doe on 16 Feb 2010 20:59
Paul <nospam(a)needed.com> wrote:

> This picture is a 20 pin power supply and a 24 pin motherboard,
> valid as long as there is just one PCI Express video card
> installed (rough rule of thumb).
>
> http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/20in24.jpg

Is it obvious, which side of the (24 pin) socket you connect the
shorter (20 pin) connector into? Thanks.
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