From: saber850 on
On May 9, 11:12 am, saber850 <saber...(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
> On May 7, 9:06 pm, "Dav.p." <davi...(a)tiscali.it> wrote:
>
> > Hi, i'm new here and sorry 4 my poor english, first of all this long flame seems to me much
> > out of site (? exagerate..?), too much word maybe for a very simple problem, i'm not a tech
> > but from the first agree with talks of  J.Liebermann, the strange thing i spect from somone that
> > suspected the main 5v line that ususally supply the graphic/video chip, so is not (for me) a bad
> > idea to test the 5v line on the psu connector to the v.board since you don't found any bulged/
> > dirt capacitor, and if you find the v changes according to the fades then go to order caps, if not
> > try at least to measure on the regulator on v.board to see if exit 3,3v fixed or some like it.
> > I don't agree to what said, it's a luck that you have 2 equal monitor so in the last if you don't
> > find culprit you can swap boards and see
>
> > bye bye.
>
> Yes, I've been considering swapping one of the boards between the
> monitors.  This seems like the easiest way to narrow down the problem.

I swapped the power boards in the monitors. The "good" monitor
immediately exhibited the problem that the previously malfunctioning
one did, while the "bad" monitor works fine (at least, so far). So
I'm confident that the problem is from the power board, and given this
thread and some web sites, I'll start w/ the caps. Now that I had
both power boards to examine, I also noticed that the C110 and C111
caps were replaced by Samsung when I sent the monitor in for repair
earlier this year (the last month of its warranty). I'll get the
specs of all caps today, find corresponding parts on DigiKey, and post
back here for confirmation.

I will research this topic on the web, but are the Polymer caps
entirely superior to electrolyte ones? Are there drawbacks to polymer
caps?
From: Jeff Liebermann on
On Sun, 9 May 2010 15:04:59 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850(a)yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Are the Polymer caps
>entirely superior to electrolyte ones? Are there drawbacks to polymer
>caps?

This article covers most everything:
<http://www.capacitorlab.com/capacitor-types-polymer/>
Polymer caps solve just about every complaint I can think of with
electrolytics. The major benefits are much longer lifetime, lower
ESR, and better temp stability. The down sides are the higher cost
and that they are available only in fairly low voltages.

If you can find them, and can afford the cost, do it.



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl(a)cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
From: Dav.p. on
> one did, while the "bad" monitor works fine (at least, so far). So

you say the bad mon. with the good power board i think...

> I'm confident that the problem is from the power board, and given this

ok, 1-0 for me... :)
(ah it's a soccer score sorry..)

>both power boards to examine, I also noticed that the C110 and C111
>caps were replaced by Samsung when I sent the monitor in for repair

from what you noticed? The shining solderings?

>earlier this year (the last month of its warranty). I'll get the
>specs of all caps today, find corresponding parts on DigiKey, and post
>back here for confirmation.

i think is not so vital to find the specs, only take uF and V and order a good brand of low esr type. (105c)

>I will research this topic on the web, but are the Polymer caps
>entirely superior to electrolyte ones? Are there drawbacks to polymer
>caps?

As above i'm not an expert at all but i think.. with a good brand like Sanyo, Rubycon, Panasonic
etc, you can go quiet and live life in peace for at least 3-4 years intense-use,
it's a good idea replace all area's caps, to be sure.. like i said it's safer and instructive
to test the 5v line output for instability, or the 12v if 5v is stable.. but it is no so safe whitout
precautions so it's up to you, if the boards stays screwed on the back and face outside is more
safe.


From: saber850 on
On May 9, 11:00 pm, "Dav.p." <davi...(a)tiscali.it> wrote:
> > one did, while the "bad" monitor works fine (at least, so far).  So
>
> you say the bad mon. with the good power board i think...
>
> > I'm confident that the problem is from the power board, and given this
>
> ok, 1-0 for me...  :)
> (ah it's a soccer score sorry..)
>
> >both power boards to examine, I also noticed that the C110 and C111
> >caps were replaced by Samsung when I sent the monitor in for repair
>
> from what you noticed? The shining solderings?
>
> >earlier this year (the last month of its warranty).  I'll get the
> >specs of all caps today, find corresponding parts on DigiKey, and post
> >back here for confirmation.
>
> i think is not so vital to find the specs, only take uF and V and order a good brand of low esr type. (105c)
>
> >I will research this topic on the web, but are the Polymer caps
> >entirely superior to electrolyte ones?  Are there drawbacks to polymer
> >caps?
>
> As above i'm not an expert at all but i think.. with a good brand like Sanyo, Rubycon, Panasonic
> etc, you can go quiet and live life in peace for at least 3-4 years intense-use,
> it's a good idea replace all area's caps, to be sure.. like i said it's safer and instructive
> to test the 5v line output for instability, or the 12v if 5v is stable.. but it is no so safe whitout
> precautions so it's up to you, if the boards stays screwed on the back and face outside is more
> safe.

Yes, I'm confident the the problem is w/ the power board, since that's
the only thing that changed, and the problem followed it. The monitor
w/ the power board from the non-malfunctioning monitor has been
functioning properly for 24 hours.

There are three reasons that I suspect the C110 and C111 caps were
replaced. The first reason is that all caps across both power boards
except those two have a hand-drawn black mark (line on the radius) on
top. Those two have slightly shinier solder. And there are small
scratches on the underside of the PCB around those caps' pins.

As for testing the 5V or 12V lines, that's not easy because the boards
are not screwed down. There is a metal plate which sandwiches these
boards to the back of the panel, and which provides the mounting
point.
From: saber850 on
On May 10, 12:46 pm, saber850 <saber...(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
> On May 9, 11:00 pm, "Dav.p." <davi...(a)tiscali.it> wrote:
>
>
>
> > > one did, while the "bad" monitor works fine (at least, so far).  So
>
> > you say the bad mon. with the good power board i think...
>
> > > I'm confident that the problem is from the power board, and given this
>
> > ok, 1-0 for me...  :)
> > (ah it's a soccer score sorry..)
>
> > >both power boards to examine, I also noticed that the C110 and C111
> > >caps were replaced by Samsung when I sent the monitor in for repair
>
> > from what you noticed? The shining solderings?
>
> > >earlier this year (the last month of its warranty).  I'll get the
> > >specs of all caps today, find corresponding parts on DigiKey, and post
> > >back here for confirmation.
>
> > i think is not so vital to find the specs, only take uF and V and order a good brand of low esr type. (105c)
>
> > >I will research this topic on the web, but are the Polymer caps
> > >entirely superior to electrolyte ones?  Are there drawbacks to polymer
> > >caps?
>
> > As above i'm not an expert at all but i think.. with a good brand like Sanyo, Rubycon, Panasonic
> > etc, you can go quiet and live life in peace for at least 3-4 years intense-use,
> > it's a good idea replace all area's caps, to be sure.. like i said it's safer and instructive
> > to test the 5v line output for instability, or the 12v if 5v is stable... but it is no so safe whitout
> > precautions so it's up to you, if the boards stays screwed on the back and face outside is more
> > safe.
>
> Yes, I'm confident the the problem is w/ the power board, since that's
> the only thing that changed, and the problem followed it.  The monitor
> w/ the power board from the non-malfunctioning monitor has been
> functioning properly for 24 hours.
>
> There are three reasons that I suspect the C110 and C111 caps were
> replaced.  The first reason is that all caps across both power boards
> except those two have a hand-drawn black mark (line on the radius) on
> top.  Those two have slightly shinier solder.  And there are small
> scratches on the underside of the PCB around those caps' pins.
>
> As for testing the 5V or 12V lines, that's not easy because the boards
> are not screwed down.  There is a metal plate which sandwiches these
> boards to the back of the panel, and which provides the mounting
> point.

Here's my first stab at finding replacement caps. I was not able to
find any polymer caps to replace these on Digikey or Mouser. I opted
for Panasonic if it was available.

PCB Designation Farads (µF) Voltage (V) Temp (C) Length (mm)
Potential Length (mm) Diameter (mm) Lead Spacing (Board) (mm) Mouser
Replacement Mouser Replacement URL
C105 150 450 105 41 45 20 7 661-EKMQ451VN151MP40
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=EKMQ451VN151MP40Svirtualkey66100000virtualkey661-EKMQ451VN151MP40
C107 47 50 105 11 24 5 5 667-ECA-1HHG470
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ECA-1HHG470virtualkey66720000virtualkey667-ECA-1HHG470
C301 680 25 105 17 22 10 5 667-EEU-FC1E681
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=EEU-FC1E681virtualkey66720000virtualkey667-EEU-FC1E681
C302 680 25 105 17 22 10 5 667-EEU-FC1E681
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=EEU-FC1E681virtualkey66720000virtualkey667-EEU-FC1E681
C110 820 25 105 22 24 10 5 598-361R821M025EG0E
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=361R821M025EG0Evirtualkey59850000virtualkey598-361R821M025EG0E
C111 820 25 105 22 24 10 5 598-361R821M025EG0E
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=361R821M025EG0Evirtualkey59850000virtualkey598-361R821M025EG0E
C112 330 25 105 14 24 10 5 667-EEU-FC1E331
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=EEU-FC1E331virtualkey66720000virtualkey667-EEU-FC1E331

If this doesn't display well, I can upload the spreadsheet as a PDF
somewhere.