Labelling Prototypes
in [Design]
|
Prev: Ultra low frequency VCO
Next: Hot dog?
From: Ralph Barone on 5 Jul 2010 21:50 In article <d87e215a-1324-4844-a691-250b15d7354c(a)y4g2000yqy.googlegroups.com>, mpm <mpmillard(a)aol.com> wrote: > On Jul 5, 2:47�pm, Jamie > <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...(a)charter.net> wrote: > > Ian Bell wrote: > > > What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking > > > particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example) > > > containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling. > > > So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special > > > transparent overhead projector type film with built in adhesive and > > > contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need > > > something I can design easily myself on a PC and either produce myself > > > or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of the above might > > > work but before I take the plunge I thought I would ask what others use??? > > > > > Cheers > > > > > Ian > > > > � For small cabinets I print out via laser in mirror form, the drill > > locations, knock out locations, control labeling, logo's etc. all on a > > single sheet of either ink jet photo paper or clay paper and iron it > > on the surface.. when removed via wetting it, 99% of it comes out and > > I touch up what I don't like.. then I spray it with a clear coat to > > protect it.. > > > > � P.S. > > � � �The cabinets I used either have a base color already on it that the > > toner sticks to nicely or we spray it with a thin clear coat first.. > > > > � � �It does give a shinny look if that isn't abjectable. > > > > � Jamie.. > > BTW, if anyone in the US would like a really great deal on some small > metal NEMA-4 enclosures (Hammond EJ-863's and nearby sizes), I can be > talked into giving a VERY good deal. > Brand spanking new. Never opened. Many of our local trophy shops now have laser engravers. Give them any printable file (Visio works well and knows about absolute dimensions) and they will laser etch that into any material you like.
From: crasic on 6 Jul 2010 05:23 On Jul 5, 8:51 am, Ian Bell <ruffreco...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > What do you guys use for labelling prototypes? I am thinking > particularly of control panels (19 in rack mounting for example) > containing pots, toggle and rotary switched all of which need labelling. > So far I have looked at iron on T shirt printer paper, special > transparent overhead projector type film with built in adhesive and > contacted a company that does custom stick-on vinyl decals. I need > something I can design easily myself on a PC and either produce myself > or have produced at reasonable cost. Any one of more of the above might > work but before I take the plunge I thought I would ask what others use??? > > Cheers > > Ian We use labelmakers to label our equipment (in a lab setting most equipment is one off, so no use in making custom enclosures). They are cheap and produce readable labels with almost no effort. They are somewhat ugly looking, but w/e they get the job done.
From: Jim MacArthur on 6 Jul 2010 09:01 My shop makes custom scientific instruments, which means a new and different front panel every few days. My go-to method is to use a 4" wide vinyl label printer called the DuraLabel 4TTP, loaded with brushed aluminum stock and chemical resistant ink. The result looks awesome, and easily passes the fingernail test. In fact, it's durable enough that I sometimes put the label on _before_ punching the holes. Which brings me to the downsides. First, the calibration in the horizontal direction is only good to a few percent. This may not seem like much of a problem, until you notice that the label for your 19" panel is 19.5" long. Or more. Or less. It's tricky to get holes to line up, which is why I sometimes have to apply the label before I punch. Second, the brushed aluminum label is only available in 4" widths, which is great for 2U enclosures, but won't cover 3U. Also, it can be hard to convince the salesman that brushed aluminum stock (P/ N 84-50) exists. All in all, though, I'd be in a heap of trouble without it. -Jim MacA.
From: Nunya on 6 Jul 2010 11:31 On Jul 6, 6:01 am, Jim MacArthur <macart...(a)physics.harvard.edu> wrote: > My shop makes custom scientific instruments, which means a new and > different front panel every few days. My go-to method is to use a 4" > wide vinyl label printer called the DuraLabel 4TTP, loaded with > brushed aluminum stock and chemical resistant ink. The result looks > awesome, and easily passes the fingernail test. In fact, it's durable > enough that I sometimes put the label on _before_ punching the holes. > Which brings me to the downsides. First, the calibration in the > horizontal direction is only good to a few percent. This may not seem > like much of a problem, until you notice that the label for your 19" > panel is 19.5" long. Or more. Or less. It's tricky to get holes to > line up, which is why I sometimes have to apply the label before I > punch. Second, the brushed aluminum label is only available in 4" > widths, which is great for 2U enclosures, but won't cover 3U. Also, > it can be hard to convince the salesman that brushed aluminum stock (P/ > N 84-50) exists. All in all, though, I'd be in a heap of trouble > without it. > -Jim MacA. Sounds good, but I would opt for using the stock with a good B sized form factor printer, and a carrier sheet. Likely quite a bit cheaper. I wonder if that stock would work in a Brady thermal transfer type printer. Anyway, thanks for the tip on the base media!
From: Spehro Pefhany on 6 Jul 2010 12:00
On Tue, 6 Jul 2010 06:01:03 -0700 (PDT), Jim MacArthur <macarthur(a)physics.harvard.edu> wrote: >My shop makes custom scientific instruments, which means a new and >different front panel every few days. My go-to method is to use a 4" >wide vinyl label printer called the DuraLabel 4TTP, loaded with >brushed aluminum stock and chemical resistant ink. The result looks >awesome, and easily passes the fingernail test. In fact, it's durable >enough that I sometimes put the label on _before_ punching the holes. >Which brings me to the downsides. First, the calibration in the >horizontal direction is only good to a few percent. This may not seem >like much of a problem, until you notice that the label for your 19" >panel is 19.5" long. Or more. Or less. It's tricky to get holes to >line up, which is why I sometimes have to apply the label before I >punch. Second, the brushed aluminum label is only available in 4" >widths, which is great for 2U enclosures, but won't cover 3U. Also, >it can be hard to convince the salesman that brushed aluminum stock (P/ >N 84-50) exists. All in all, though, I'd be in a heap of trouble >without it. >-Jim MacA. Neat looking. Do you coat the panel afterward? |