Non Mech Join to Aluminum
in [Design]
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From: ehsjr on 27 Apr 2010 16:59 richard wrote: > Robert Baer wrote: > >> George Herold wrote: >> >>> On Apr 26, 3:55 am, Robert Baer <robertb...(a)localnet.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Ken Dunlop wrote: >>>> >>>>> What are the alternatives for applying an earth lead to a bare >>>>> aluminum chassis that do not require a mechanical fitting? >>>>> Brand names of products would be appreciated, if possible. >>>>> Ken Dunlop >>>> >>>> >>>> One can solder - even using tin-lead, but it alloys like crazy and >>>> can leave a "dent" in the surface where the solder was employed. >>>> One can weld; spot weld or standard weld. >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi Robert, Have you actully used the aluminum solder and fluxes with >>> any success? I remeber years ago trying to get the 'aluminum solder >>> and flux' to wet to a piece of aluminum.. It was a complete failure. >>> >>> Is the aluminum alloy a issue? >>> >>> George H. >> >> >> Umpteen years ago (40?) i used some special aluminum solder and flux >> that worked very well and did not have the alloying problem that use >> of tin-lead has. >> That special solder had (hold your breath LITERALLY) cadmium in it. > > > I wondered about that - but would not be convinced unless you could > provide evidence. OTOH - you could look it up for yourself. Ed > > At materials practicals (Nat Sci Part 1A 1968) we were given a cadmium > wire. On stretching the wire one could see the crystal grains. > The colour of the Alu-Sol seems similar, and when stretched the surface > takes on a rough appearance also. Perhaps I will find a chemical test > forthe presence of Cadmium. > >> Use of ordinary tin-lead solder works better with some fluxes than >> others (do not ask as i do not remember); the trick is to break thru >> the oxide on the surface. >> Once that is done, the aluminum seems to soak up the solder like a >> sponge! >> Do not think the alloy has much to do with the process. > >
From: richard on 27 Apr 2010 21:47 ehsjr wrote: > richard wrote: > >> Robert Baer wrote: >> >>> George Herold wrote: >>> >>>> On Apr 26, 3:55 am, Robert Baer <robertb...(a)localnet.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Ken Dunlop wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> What are the alternatives for applying an earth lead to a bare >>>>>> aluminum chassis that do not require a mechanical fitting? >>>>>> Brand names of products would be appreciated, if possible. >>>>>> Ken Dunlop >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> One can solder - even using tin-lead, but it alloys like crazy and >>>>> can leave a "dent" in the surface where the solder was employed. >>>>> One can weld; spot weld or standard weld. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Hi Robert, Have you actully used the aluminum solder and fluxes with >>>> any success? I remeber years ago trying to get the 'aluminum solder >>>> and flux' to wet to a piece of aluminum.. It was a complete failure. >>>> >>>> Is the aluminum alloy a issue? >>>> >>>> George H. >>> >>> >>> >>> Umpteen years ago (40?) i used some special aluminum solder and >>> flux that worked very well and did not have the alloying problem that >>> use of tin-lead has. >>> That special solder had (hold your breath LITERALLY) cadmium in it. >> >> >> >> I wondered about that - but would not be convinced unless you could >> provide evidence. > > > OTOH - you could look it up for yourself. > > Ed My (old) Alu-Sol works very well. Current composition Alu-Sol appears not to contain Cadmium. Some solders contain Cadmium. That's all I have found out. All the rest is hearsay. Cadmium sulphide is yellow, lead sulphide is black, silver sulphide is black - makes a simple test for Cadmium in solder difficult. > >> >> At materials practicals (Nat Sci Part 1A 1968) we were given a cadmium >> wire. On stretching the wire one could see the crystal grains. >> The colour of the Alu-Sol seems similar, and when stretched the >> surface takes on a rough appearance also. Perhaps I will find a >> chemical test forthe presence of Cadmium. >> >>> Use of ordinary tin-lead solder works better with some fluxes than >>> others (do not ask as i do not remember); the trick is to break thru >>> the oxide on the surface. >>> Once that is done, the aluminum seems to soak up the solder like a >>> sponge! >>> Do not think the alloy has much to do with the process. >> >> >>
From: Przemek Klosowski on 30 Apr 2010 23:28 > Ken Dunlop wrote: >> What are the alternatives for applying an earth lead to a bare aluminum >> chassis that do not require a mechanical fitting? I successfully soldered regular PbSn solder to aluminum by scraping vigorously under a drop of engine oil and then quickly soldering in the oil drop.
From: Paul Hovnanian P.E. on 3 May 2010 13:24 Ken Dunlop wrote: > What are the alternatives for applying an earth lead to a bare > aluminum chassis that do not require a mechanical fitting? > > Brand names of products would be appreciated, if possible. > > Ken Dunlop What do you mean by 'non mechanical'? What sorts of operations/devices are you ruling out? -- Paul Hovnanian paul(a)hovnanian.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Have gnu, will travel.
From: John Ferrell on 4 May 2010 11:50
On Sat, 1 May 2010 03:28:15 +0000 (UTC), Przemek Klosowski <przemek(a)tux.dot.org> wrote: >> Ken Dunlop wrote: >>> What are the alternatives for applying an earth lead to a bare aluminum >>> chassis that do not require a mechanical fitting? > >I successfully soldered regular PbSn solder to aluminum by scraping >vigorously under a drop of engine oil and then quickly soldering in >the oil drop. I have been using that technique for over 50 years without the oil. It takes a lot of heat because the Aluminum conducts the heat away fast. Rub a blob of solder vigorously with a hot iron until it bonds. Then solder whatever to the blob. You can also flame weld Aluminum but it requires a talented craftsman. John Ferrell W8CCW |