From: SteveH on
Flasherly wrote:
> On Feb 23, 10:31 am, Rene Lamontagne <rlam...(a)shaw.ca> wrote:
>>
>> Switching off at the mains resets the power supply failsafes and
>> allows the powersupply to restart, Also doing a restart from
>> windows allows the PS to use stored power from its capacitors to
>> help overcome the higher current requirements of drive spin up.
>> once everything is running the power demand is much lower.
>> I do sparetime repairs on computers for friends and family and have
>> just lately run into 2 sytems with exactly your problem. BTW fans
>> and lights will all run at much lower voltages than the whole system
>> and makes things confusing.
>> Your PS is probably sufficient in size when working properly.
>>
>> Regards, Rene
>
> Capacitors, mains, powersupply failsafe resets...too much credit to
> PS. PSupplies are dumb as a nail, other than quality and a few for
> adjusting rails, they should do one thing well and don't need much
> intervention or verbiage. Basically got a pwr-good strobe to the MB --
> ATX added some weirdness to the wall socket, another logic state that
> may (on some builds) initially require fiddling a little with the pwr-
> on switch or pwr cord.
>
> Take it down to as basic as it'll go, single HD, MB/no more than what
> it takes to run one, and VID. Also, try to boot w/out HD for the
> usual b&w screen display line - "stick something in me to boot". Start
> adding the rest of the stuff. Flakey add-on PCI controller BIOS
> routine perhaps. One by one until the one associated w/ problems
> occurs.
>
> Got it any earlier, then start looking at the MB/mem/cpu/vid -- PS.
> Try running w/out some stuff. *If and when* the PS is being pulled
> down -- that tv tuner, the DVD drives & floppy. You can live with
> them disconnected, try it awhile and see how things go.
>
> Might have something going on with one or between the TV card, pci HD
> controller, and bios hang. May be able to tweak the bios, may get fed
> up and replace something with better hardware that less prone to
> conflicts.
>
> Then, again, you've stuffed it up right tight. May be the PS groaning
> after all. Like I said, you can lighten up -- some of that stuff you
> can run w/out temporarily. Runs great no issues on the light side,
> then a 1200W PS may be in the crystal ball, after all.

Can I have some of whatever you're on please?

--
SteveH


From: Poster Matt on
Rene Lamontagne wrote:
> Poster Matt wrote:
>> Rene Lamontagne wrote:
>>> Poster Matt wrote:
>>>> TVeblen wrote:
>>>>> On 2/23/2010 9:10 AM, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
>>>>>> Poster Matt wrote:
>>>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I received a lot of help 2 years ago in this group concerning a PC
>>>>>>> build. Now I've a major problem with the PC and would really
>>>>>>> appreciate some advise.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> When I turn my PC on it won't boot - the PC won't even get as far in
>>>>>>> the powering-up / boot process for anything to be displayed on my
>>>>>>> monitor, so not even as far as being able to go into the BIOS setup.
>>>>>>> In fact the monitor does not even detect a signal from the PC,
>>>>>>> saying
>>>>>>> on screen 'No signal detected'. Pressing the PC's power button to
>>>>>>> turn
>>>>>>> it off and then on again results in the same thing happening - no
>>>>>>> boot, even if repeated as many as 10 times or more.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> For a while I could get around this by turning the PC off at the
>>>>>>> mains, leaving it off for a few minutes and then turning it on
>>>>>>> again,
>>>>>>> after which pressing the PC's power on button always resulted in the
>>>>>>> PC booting successfully. Now even that is not working - though I can
>>>>>>> get it to boot by repeatedly trying the mains off, wait, try to boot
>>>>>>> process. After a few attempts it works.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Once a boot is successful the PC performs perfectly. Reboots using
>>>>>>> Windows's 'restart' always work with no problems at all. However
>>>>>>> I now
>>>>>>> don't turn the PC off at all unless going away for more than one
>>>>>>> night.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Clearly I have a major problem and one that I've left too long to
>>>>>>> resolve, having simply not had the time.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> My reason for posting is that I do not have a clue how to resolve
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> problem, not knowing even where to start diagnosis.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Can you guys advise me on the steps I need to take to diagnose the
>>>>>>> fault please?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Here are the details about the build PC:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Feb 2008 Build:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Asus P5KC Motherboard
>>>>>>> Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Dual Core CPU
>>>>>>> 2GB Corsair Dominator 1066MHz DDR2 Dual Channel Memory (2 x 1GB)
>>>>>>> Zalman CNPS9700-LED Super Aero Flower CPU Cooler
>>>>>>> Sapphire Radeon HD2600PRO 512MB DDR2 PCI-Express
>>>>>>> Compro Videomate T220 - Digital Tuner / PCI Interface
>>>>>>> 500GB Samsung SpinPoint F1 3.5" SATA Hard Disk Drive x 2
>>>>>>> Antec P180 - Advanced Super Midi Tower
>>>>>>> Akasa 80mm Ultra Quiet & Akasa 120mm Ultra Quiet (Fans)
>>>>>>> 520W Corsair HX520W Modular Power Supply
>>>>>>> Floppy Disk Drive - Generic Brand
>>>>>>> Samsung SH-S203 SATA Dual Layer DVD Writer
>>>>>>> Samsung SATA 16x DVD-ROM Drive
>>>>>>> Windows XP SP2.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> July 2008 added:
>>>>>>> Samsung HD103UJ 1TB SATA Hard Disk Drive
>>>>>>> SATA II 2 Port Controller Card - PCI Express
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Please note the following:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 1) The problems described have been going on for the last 3-4 months
>>>>>>> and so did not occur immediately after installing the 1TB HDD and
>>>>>>> SATA
>>>>>>> controller card added in July 2008.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 2) One of the fans may not be working properly, it screeches loudly
>>>>>>> for a short while sometimes.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Many thanks for any advice. Cheers
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>> From your post I would suspect a bad Power Supply.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Regards, Rene
>>>>>
>>>>> I agree with Rene, but it could also be something as simple as the
>>>>> case switch. (You did not mention whether you get any activity:
>>>>> lights, fans, etc.) But assuming you are getting nothing at all,
>>>>> you should eliminate the switch as a possibility before replacing
>>>>> the PS. You can test the switch at the motherboard where the "Power
>>>>> SW" header connects. Simply short the 2 pins with a screwdriver to
>>>>> see if it boots normally that way. If it does then your case switch
>>>>> is bad.
>>>>> Don't kill your rig with static - use proper precautions, etc etc.
>>>>
>>>> Sorry I tried to be as detailed as possible but forgot to mention
>>>> that, yes, I do get power, lights on the case, fan noise, HDD
>>>> activity light too, even when there is no boot.
>>>>
>>>> I don't understand why you think the problem is the power supply.
>>>> Why will it boot eventually after the switch off at the mains, wait,
>>>> power up, repeat as necessary process? And once booted, work
>>>> perfectly for weeks on end with no problem?
>>>>
>>>> I'm not doubting your diagnosis just not understanding it.
>>>>
>>>> Also could it be that my "520W Corsair HX520W Modular Power Supply"
>>>> does not have enough wattage?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks guys.
>>>
>>> Switching off at the mains resets the power supply failsafes and
>>> allows the powersupply to restart, Also doing a restart from windows
>>> allows the PS to use stored power from its capacitors to help
>>> overcome the higher current requirements of drive spin up.
>>> once everything is running the power demand is much lower.
>>> I do sparetime repairs on computers for friends and family and have
>>> just lately run into 2 sytems with exactly your problem. BTW fans and
>>> lights will all run at much lower voltages than the whole system and
>>> makes things confusing.
>>> Your PS is probably sufficient in size when working properly.
>>>
>>> Regards, Rene
>>
>> Many thanks Rene for taking the time to explain the problem. I think
>> I'll bump up the wattage of the new power supply in case of future
>> upgrades. Should be able to fix a new unit this weekend.
>>
>> Any recommendations for what to get? My Corsair HX520W hasn't even
>> lasted 2 years.
>>
>> Thanks again guys.
>
> Good idea to oversize for future addons, I have been replacing 450 to
> 500 Watt units with 600 or 650 watt, OCZ, Enermax and PCpowerand cooling
> All seem OK, most of the well branded ones should be good Check Newegg
> etc for reviews.
>
> Regards, Rene

Cheers Rene. I'll check them out and look on Newegg.

Thanks again.
From: Poster Matt on
peter wrote:
> Quote: One of the fans may not be working properly, it screeches loudly
>>>> for a short while sometimes.
> if that is the Fan on the CPU cooler I would check to see if its running
> on startup.
> It might be seizing up when cool and the BIOS sees no fan movement and
> stops the startup.
>
> Other than that I too feel you have reached your Power limit.
> Which you can test by disconnecting a few peripherals
>
> peter
>

Ok. Many thanks.
From: Poster Matt on
TVeblen wrote:
> On 2/23/2010 10:13 AM, Poster Matt wrote:
>> TVeblen wrote:
>>> On 2/23/2010 9:10 AM, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
>>>> Poster Matt wrote:
>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>
>>>>> I received a lot of help 2 years ago in this group concerning a PC
>>>>> build. Now I've a major problem with the PC and would really
>>>>> appreciate some advise.
>>>>>
>>>>> When I turn my PC on it won't boot - the PC won't even get as far in
>>>>> the powering-up / boot process for anything to be displayed on my
>>>>> monitor, so not even as far as being able to go into the BIOS setup.
>>>>> In fact the monitor does not even detect a signal from the PC, saying
>>>>> on screen 'No signal detected'. Pressing the PC's power button to turn
>>>>> it off and then on again results in the same thing happening - no
>>>>> boot, even if repeated as many as 10 times or more.
>>>>>
>>>>> For a while I could get around this by turning the PC off at the
>>>>> mains, leaving it off for a few minutes and then turning it on again,
>>>>> after which pressing the PC's power on button always resulted in the
>>>>> PC booting successfully. Now even that is not working - though I can
>>>>> get it to boot by repeatedly trying the mains off, wait, try to boot
>>>>> process. After a few attempts it works.
>>>>>
>>>>> Once a boot is successful the PC performs perfectly. Reboots using
>>>>> Windows's 'restart' always work with no problems at all. However I now
>>>>> don't turn the PC off at all unless going away for more than one
>>>>> night.
>>>>>
>>>>> Clearly I have a major problem and one that I've left too long to
>>>>> resolve, having simply not had the time.
>>>>>
>>>>> My reason for posting is that I do not have a clue how to resolve the
>>>>> problem, not knowing even where to start diagnosis.
>>>>>
>>>>> Can you guys advise me on the steps I need to take to diagnose the
>>>>> fault please?
>>>>>
>>>>> Here are the details about the build PC:
>>>>>
>>>>> Feb 2008 Build:
>>>>>
>>>>> Asus P5KC Motherboard
>>>>> Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Dual Core CPU
>>>>> 2GB Corsair Dominator 1066MHz DDR2 Dual Channel Memory (2 x 1GB)
>>>>> Zalman CNPS9700-LED Super Aero Flower CPU Cooler
>>>>> Sapphire Radeon HD2600PRO 512MB DDR2 PCI-Express
>>>>> Compro Videomate T220 - Digital Tuner / PCI Interface
>>>>> 500GB Samsung SpinPoint F1 3.5" SATA Hard Disk Drive x 2
>>>>> Antec P180 - Advanced Super Midi Tower
>>>>> Akasa 80mm Ultra Quiet & Akasa 120mm Ultra Quiet (Fans)
>>>>> 520W Corsair HX520W Modular Power Supply
>>>>> Floppy Disk Drive - Generic Brand
>>>>> Samsung SH-S203 SATA Dual Layer DVD Writer
>>>>> Samsung SATA 16x DVD-ROM Drive
>>>>> Windows XP SP2.
>>>>>
>>>>> July 2008 added:
>>>>> Samsung HD103UJ 1TB SATA Hard Disk Drive
>>>>> SATA II 2 Port Controller Card - PCI Express
>>>>>
>>>>> Please note the following:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1) The problems described have been going on for the last 3-4 months
>>>>> and so did not occur immediately after installing the 1TB HDD and SATA
>>>>> controller card added in July 2008.
>>>>>
>>>>> 2) One of the fans may not be working properly, it screeches loudly
>>>>> for a short while sometimes.
>>>>>
>>>>> Many thanks for any advice. Cheers
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> .
>>>> From your post I would suspect a bad Power Supply.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Regards, Rene
>>>
>>> I agree with Rene, but it could also be something as simple as the
>>> case switch. (You did not mention whether you get any activity:
>>> lights, fans, etc.) But assuming you are getting nothing at all, you
>>> should eliminate the switch as a possibility before replacing the PS.
>>> You can test the switch at the motherboard where the "Power SW" header
>>> connects. Simply short the 2 pins with a screwdriver to see if it
>>> boots normally that way. If it does then your case switch is bad.
>>> Don't kill your rig with static - use proper precautions, etc etc.
>>
>> Sorry I tried to be as detailed as possible but forgot to mention that,
>> yes, I do get power, lights on the case, fan noise, HDD activity light
>> too, even when there is no boot.
>>
> <Snip>
>
> Then that raises the possibility that the video card could be defective.
> Can you get another card to try in your machine, or borrow one to put in
> yours? That is not to say that Rene is wrong - the PS is a very likely
> suspect, but you may want to do some of the "free" diagnostics before
> you go buying new stuff. A system that will not post has got a major
> hardware issue going on. What Flasherly says is correct. To diagnose a
> problem like yours I would disassemble the entire rig , so there is just
> a motherboard, processor, and power supply and try it. The board will
> beep like mad (no memory code). Then add one stick of memory you should
> now get the no video code. Then add the video card. At this point you
> should get to the BIOS screen. If you don't then you know you have a
> problem with one of those 5 components. If it works with the main 5 then
> start adding components back one at a time until you find the one that
> hoses the system.

Ok, thanks for the advise.

Looks like I'm in for a long weekend. :(
From: Flasherly on
On Feb 23, 1:40 pm, "SteveH" <steve.houghREM...(a)THISblueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> Can I have some of whatever you're on please?

Doubt it, a socket 754 is hard to find, and I just sold my last
texting cell phone.