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From: Charles Lindsey on 2 Apr 2010 10:23
I read somewhere that it was possible to make printed circuits using a
laser printer (one assumes, of course, that the paper track in the
particular printer was straight enough to take the extremely stiff board).

Would not the conductive layer of copper on top of the board prevent the
normal electrostatic transfer of the black stuff? I accept that, if
transferred, normal toner should be an effective etch resist.

Alternatively, is it possible to use an inkjet printer for the purpose
(again assuming the paper track was straight enough, which might be easier
that with a laser printer). But does anyone know whether normal black
inkjet dye would be an effective resist?

--
Charles H. Lindsey ---------At Home, doing my own thing------------------------
Tel: +44 161 436 6131 Web: http://www.cs.man.ac.uk/~chl
Email: chl(a)clerew.man.ac.uk Snail: 5 Clerewood Ave, CHEADLE, SK8 3JU, U.K.
PGP: 2C15F1A9 Fingerprint: 73 6D C2 51 93 A0 01 E7 65 E8 64 7E 14 A4 AB A5
From: Fred McKenzie on 2 Apr 2010 14:59
In article <L096My.8x(a)clerew.man.ac.uk>,
"Charles Lindsey" <chl(a)clerew.man.ac.uk> wrote:

> I read somewhere that it was possible to make printed circuits using a
> laser printer (one assumes, of course, that the paper track in the
> particular printer was straight enough to take the extremely stiff board).

Charles-

I do not recall the details from many years ago, but I don't think the
circuit board passes through the printer. I believe a Xerox copy or a
Laser print of the artwork is used.

I don't recall whether it was a photographic approach using sensitized
materials, or something like ironing T-Shirt artwork onto a copper board.

If no one here can provide details, perhaps some other group would have
the resident expertise. Maybe sci.electronics.equipment or
rec.radio.amateur.homebrew?

Fred
From: Bob Eager on 2 Apr 2010 15:24
On Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:23:22 +0000, Charles Lindsey wrote:

> I read somewhere that it was possible to make printed circuits using a
> laser printer (one assumes, of course, that the paper track in the
> particular printer was straight enough to take the extremely stiff
> board).
>
> Would not the conductive layer of copper on top of the board prevent the
> normal electrostatic transfer of the black stuff? I accept that, if
> transferred, normal toner should be an effective etch resist.

Charles

I have a book that discusses this. The 'home' method is that you print
the resist pattern on a piece of paper. Then you clamp it to the PCB
blank, and use a hot iron and much pressure to remelt the toner and
transfer it to the board. Results are apparently mixed, but it can be
done. Not that you'll get much 'definition' with it... But clearly this
method won't work with an inkjet.

The second method is to print (inkjet or laser) onto transparency film.
Then use a photoresist blank PCB and develop it. Rapid Electronics and
CPC sell suitable film.

The third method is to use "press-n-peel" film, which is a sophisticated
version of the first method! Rapid and CPC sell this too.

Hope this helps.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

From: Periproct on 3 Apr 2010 06:10


"Bob Eager" <rde42(a)spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:81muk8Ffr2U2(a)mid.individual.net...
> On Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:23:22 +0000, Charles Lindsey wrote:
>
>> I read somewhere that it was possible to make printed circuits using a
>> laser printer (one assumes, of course, that the paper track in the
>> particular printer was straight enough to take the extremely stiff
>> board).
>>
>> Would not the conductive layer of copper on top of the board prevent the
>> normal electrostatic transfer of the black stuff? I accept that, if
>> transferred, normal toner should be an effective etch resist.
>
> Charles
>
> I have a book that discusses this. The 'home' method is that you print
> the resist pattern on a piece of paper. Then you clamp it to the PCB
> blank, and use a hot iron and much pressure to remelt the toner and
> transfer it to the board. Results are apparently mixed, but it can be
> done. Not that you'll get much 'definition' with it... But clearly this
> method won't work with an inkjet.
>
> The second method is to print (inkjet or laser) onto transparency film.
> Then use a photoresist blank PCB and develop it. Rapid Electronics and
> CPC sell suitable film.
>
> The third method is to use "press-n-peel" film, which is a sophisticated
> version of the first method! Rapid and CPC sell this too.
>
And Maplin at £16 for 5 sheets of Press & Peel.
I've just tried using this and it wasn't a brilliant success. Three attempts
and I couldn't get all the tracks to transfer from the film to the PCB.
(Could be something I'm doing wrong so don't let me put you off
trying). The small amount of missing bits could easily be filled in with a
fine point sharpie. A functional but not pretty result.


From: Bob Eager on 3 Apr 2010 07:16
On Sat, 03 Apr 2010 11:10:54 +0100, Periproct wrote:

> "Bob Eager" <rde42(a)spamcop.net> wrote in message
> news:81muk8Ffr2U2(a)mid.individual.net...
>> On Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:23:22 +0000, Charles Lindsey wrote:
>>
>>> I read somewhere that it was possible to make printed circuits using a
>>> laser printer (one assumes, of course, that the paper track in the
>>> particular printer was straight enough to take the extremely stiff
>>> board).
>>>
>>> Would not the conductive layer of copper on top of the board prevent
>>> the normal electrostatic transfer of the black stuff? I accept that,
>>> if transferred, normal toner should be an effective etch resist.
>>
>> Charles
>>
>> I have a book that discusses this. The 'home' method is that you print
>> the resist pattern on a piece of paper. Then you clamp it to the PCB
>> blank, and use a hot iron and much pressure to remelt the toner and
>> transfer it to the board. Results are apparently mixed, but it can be
>> done. Not that you'll get much 'definition' with it... But clearly this
>> method won't work with an inkjet.
>>
>> The second method is to print (inkjet or laser) onto transparency film.
>> Then use a photoresist blank PCB and develop it. Rapid Electronics and
>> CPC sell suitable film.
>>
>> The third method is to use "press-n-peel" film, which is a
>> sophisticated version of the first method! Rapid and CPC sell this too.
>>
> And Maplin at £16 for 5 sheets of Press & Peel. I've just tried using
> this and it wasn't a brilliant success. Three attempts and I couldn't
> get all the tracks to transfer from the film to the PCB. (Could be
> something I'm doing wrong so don't let me put you off trying). The small
> amount of missing bits could easily be filled in with a fine point
> sharpie. A functional but not pretty result.

I have this pathological aversion to Maplin! Probably cheaper to go to
Rapid and pay the small order charge! (no, I haven't checked...)

I don't think it's that satisfactory either, but Charles was asking about
the mechanism. In the long run, I'd probably use a package like 'pcb', or
the limited free Eagle app, and get someone to make the board.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

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