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From: Grant on 8 Jul 2010 21:19
On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 19:01:39 -0400, Meat Plow <mhywatt(a)yahoo.com> wrote:

>On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:48:38 +0100, Ron
><ron(a)lunevalleyaudio.com>wrote:
>
>>On 08/07/2010 20:15, root wrote:
>>> Meat Plow<mhywatt(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Seek out a professional reconing shop. You need some specialized tools
>>>> of the trade and some talent to recone. My good friend did it for a
>>>> living until he passed away recently. He would advise the same even if
>>>> you didn't chose his service.
>>>
>>> You can buy kits for reconing speakers. It isn't a
>>> hard job. You remove the flex outer rim from the
>>> cone. Then you cut out the bulge covering the voice
>>> coil and put shims (supplied with the kit) in to center
>>> the cone. Then you glue new flex material around
>>> the cone, and wait overnight. Then you remove the
>>> shims and seal up the bulge with glue.
>>>
>>> Apart from the overnight wait for glue to dry, it
>>> only took me about half an hour the first time.
>>> With practice I might be able to get it down to
>>> 10 minutes.
>>
>>And that takes care of the knackered voice coil does it?
>>
>>Ron(UK)
>
>The 10 minute recone part really bothers me. Sure with production line
>jigs, shims, guides and people who do maybe a 100 per day that is a
>tangible goal. But for an average Joe buying reconing parts and being
>successful is not the average outcome. Sure there are exceptions so if
>you want to try it on your own good luck.

A little OT...

Took me some hours to resolder bad joint between cone wire and the flex
wire, by the time I found and arranged some foam rubber to lift the cone
outwards enough to gain access, clean off some of the black insulator
stuff very carefully to find the wires underneath and the bad solder
joint. The speakers date back about 30 years.

Then many attempts to get a good solder joint, the low-mid 7" speaker
has very fine wire to the cone. But the repair done with much patience,
and has lasted a few years now :)

It's worth the effort to try repair expensive speaker drivers, at worst,
you're still stuck with a bad speaker needing replacement. Nothing but
time to lose?

Grant.
From: root on 9 Jul 2010 03:57
Ron <ron(a)lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:
>
> And that takes care of the knackered voice coil does it?
>
> Ron(UK)

Not at all, the voice coil, spider, and the cone itself
are not affected. Sorry if I missed something in the
original post.

>
From: bob u on 9 Jul 2010 10:21
On 7/9/2010 8:56 AM, John wrote:
> On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 18:56:33 -0400, Meat Plow<mhywatt(a)yahoo.com>

>
> This has been a very interesting and informative discussion but until
> now nobody has answer my original question that was the type of glue
> to use to glue the coil to the 2" tube.
> Since we want the sound to come out of the cone, the connection
> between the cone and the coil should be as rigid as possible and that
> suggests the use of epoxy but what about heat dissipation and how to
> remove a coil glued with epoxy to the tube, if some thing goes wrong?

Airflex 400

bob

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news(a)netfront.net ---
From: William Sommerwerck on 9 Jul 2010 11:22
> This has been a very interesting and informative discussion
> but until now nobody has answer my original question that
> was the type of glue to use to glue the coil to the 2" tube.

But the question /has/ been answered -- contact the manufacturer and ask it
what the appropriate adhesive is.

You want us to give you the answer you'd like to have -- and I, for one, am
not going to do it. The manufacturer should know best.


From: John on 9 Jul 2010 17:15
On Fri, 9 Jul 2010 08:22:27 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer(a)comcast.net> wrote:

>> This has been a very interesting and informative discussion
>> but until now nobody has answer my original question that
>> was the type of glue to use to glue the coil to the 2" tube.
>
>But the question /has/ been answered -- contact the manufacturer and ask it
>what the appropriate adhesive is.
>
>You want us to give you the answer you'd like to have -- and I, for one, am
>not going to do it. The manufacturer should know best.
>

That was the first thing I did and the answer from Tannoy was:

"We don't have the kit but you may get it from company x. Then send
the complete assembly to the closest Tannoy service center (200 miles
from my residence) and we will do the reconing.
We don't recommend changing the coil."

The installation of the kit is easy. It is self center and it doesn't
have play adjustments.

In order to do a god job, I should order 2 cone kits from England but
the total cost including transportation, duty an taxes will be more
than $1k.

The speaker with less damage has about 6 turns dislocated as a group
from the rest of the coil that looks solid.
I am going to read again your recommendations about the glue, paint
the 2" tube with that glue and slide the 6 turns group into their
previous position.

If this works I may try to rewind the other coil "fat chance"

Then I may order one or two kits from England and do the reconing
myself.

Thanks for all your help.

John
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