What BULB do you guys use for taking pictures of automotive DIYs?
in [Digital Cameras]
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From: J. Clarke on 3 Aug 2010 06:00 On 8/3/2010 5:23 AM, DanP wrote: > On Aug 3, 9:51 am, "J. Clarke"<jclarke.use...(a)cox.net> wrote: > >> May be more than you want to spend but a ring flash is made for this >> sort of thing. The Sigma EM-140 works fine for $379. If you need > > You can buy a lot of light bulbs for that money. 126 200 watt bulbs from Lowes or 43 rough service 200 watt bulbs from bulbs.com. Or if you go with the Chinese knockoff then it's 13 rough service bulbs or 36 Lowes bulbs. And that leaves aside the convenience factor. With the ring light you just point and shoot, no need to move lights for every shot.
From: Robert Green on 3 Aug 2010 07:20 "Brent" <beemdoubleu(a)Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote in message news:f199ebb35fac9c1414d850cd49f19536(a)tioat.net... > In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting > conditions (like many people do). > > Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment > the camera flash. > > It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an > aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the > directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work. > > Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they > break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly. > > Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W > bulbs from ACE?] Not quite an answer to your question, but I learned a technique for photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark garage and a tripod or magnetic clamp are a must) and then use a powerful light and move it all around the area to be imaged. I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour per charge with no cords. They clip into the same sort of clamps used in tungsten light reflectors, too. You'll see an improvement right away. The dark shadows thrown by hoses, levers, rods and wires disappear because they are "filled in" as you move the light source around the area of interest. . The 100 LED flashlights are also invaluable in microphotography - they are like miniature umbrella lights. They also run very cool compared to any incandescent light source. -- Bobby G.
From: Brent on 3 Aug 2010 11:28 On Tue, 3 Aug 2010 07:20:36 -0400, Robert Green wrote: > time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark > garage and a tripod or magnetic clamp are a must) and then use a powerful > light and move it all around the area to be imaged. > That's a GREAT idea! The problem with photographing automotive repairs is that the shadows are horrid. I must try that. Thanks for all the sturdy bulb ideas; I'll keep reading!
From: notbob on 3 Aug 2010 14:44 ["Followup-To:" header set to alt.home.repair.] > photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light > painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark > > I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead > flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same > color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour Wow! What a great idea. Is 4 secs long enough to get that light moved to all the places needed. What's the max exposure time? Thanks for the great tip. nb
From: Tzortzakakis Dimitris on 3 Aug 2010 15:00
? "Rich" <rander3127(a)gmail.com> ?????? ??? ?????? news:96f1b5dc-1fcf-4cd3-9b7d-24fd4d396c08(a)f42g2000yqn.googlegroups.com... On Aug 2, 5:24 pm, Brent <beemdoub...(a)Use-Author-Supplied- Address.invalid> wrote: > In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting > conditions (like many people do). > > Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment > the camera flash. > > It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an > aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the > directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work. > > Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, > they > break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly. > > Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" > 200W > bulbs from ACE? :Enjoy them while you can, before the envirokooks ban :incandescents. They are already banned in Europe. Production has ceased and what we have are leftovers. I watched a conversation between an old lady who asked for an 100 W bulb and was told they were phased out and she could only get CFLs or a plain 75W. -- Tzortzakakis Dimitrios major in electrical engineering mechanized infantry reservist hordad AT otenet DOT gr |