What BULB do you guys use for taking pictures of automotive DIYs?
in [Digital Cameras]
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From: Tzortzakakis Dimitris on 3 Aug 2010 15:05 ? "jamesgangnc" <jamesgangnc(a)gmail.com> ?????? ??? ?????? news:7eacd5cc-b000-4a8d-816f-6fca4f36b198(a)w30g2000yqw.googlegroups.com... On Aug 2, 9:54 pm, "WW" <c...(a)nospambresnan.net> wrote: > "Brent" <beemdoub...(a)Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote in message > > news:f199ebb35fac9c1414d850cd49f19536(a)tioat.net... > > > > > > > In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting > > conditions (like many people do). > > > Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment > > the camera flash. > > > It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an > > aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change > > the > > directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work. > > > Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, > > they > > break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly. > > > Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" > > 200W > > bulbs from ACE? > > I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They > have > their own reflector. WW- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - :Try some outdoor floods. Mioght be a bit hardier. Plus :a flood may :work without quiote so high a wattage. I've seen some very high wattage CFLs used by some of my clients, they are almost 1' long and, like, 85 W. I don't know if you can get them in the USA. They are not very expensive, I think like 40 euros, but if you break one that's money down the drain. There are also excellent CFL spotlights, too (at least on this side of the pond). -- Tzortzakakis Dimitrios major in electrical engineering mechanized infantry reservist hordad AT otenet DOT gr
From: Frank ess on 3 Aug 2010 16:24 Al Dykes wrote: > In article <pan.2010.08.02.21.44.04(a)BoozersandLoozers.only>, > Jeff The Drunk <jeff(a)the-bar.drinking> wrote: >> On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:24:49 +0000, Brent wrote: >> >>> In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy >>> lighting conditions (like many people do). >>> >>> Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to >>> augment the camera flash. >>> >>> It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in >>> an aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. >>> I change the directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't >>> work. >>> >>> Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are >>> hot, they break the filament if you drop or move the light >>> suddenly. >>> >>> Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the >>> "regular" 200W bulbs from ACE? >> >> Have a look here >> >>> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/474580-REG/Westcott_501_PB500_Photo_Basics_Backlight.html > > > Note that some of those bulbs have operating hour ratings measured > in single-digit hours. > > > Has anyone tried halogrn worklights? > > http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xqd/R-202071325/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Yes. I have two of these sets (they were $14.95 when I bought them IIRC). http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03414204000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 They make a lot of light, 500 watts each lamp head, two speeds each, so the 250-500-750-1000 specification is for a pair (set). For halogen, a lot of light means a lot of heat. The idea of a collapsible stand - lamps are at about five feet when the pole is fully extended - is good, but the execution is lacking: the "locks" don't, very well, so it takes a firm twist to avoid the lamps sinking after they are set up. The legs fold, but not easily. The head bar is removable with just one pin, yielding a more portable light source, but one that requires an arm that doesn't tire, or a table for the subject and the lamp. I'm happy that they are here for emergencies, but the mentioned shortcomings and the heat mean I find myself looking for other solutions to lighting challenges. Did I mention they are - ouch! - hot? -- Frank ess
From: Chris Malcolm on 4 Aug 2010 03:42 In rec.photo.digital Tzortzakakis Dimitris <noone(a)nospam.com> wrote: > ? "jamesgangnc" <jamesgangnc(a)gmail.com> ?????? ??? ?????? > news:7eacd5cc-b000-4a8d-816f-6fca4f36b198(a)w30g2000yqw.googlegroups.com... > On Aug 2, 9:54 pm, "WW" <c...(a)nospambresnan.net> wrote: >> "Brent" <beemdoub...(a)Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote in message >> news:f199ebb35fac9c1414d850cd49f19536(a)tioat.net... >> > Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment >> > the camera flash. >> >> > It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an >> > aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change >> > the >> > directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work. >> >> > Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, >> > they >> > break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly. >> >> > Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" >> > 200W >> > bulbs from ACE? >> >> I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They >> have >> their own reflector. WW- Hide quoted text - > :Try some outdoor floods. Mioght be a bit hardier. Plus > :a flood may > :work without quiote so high a wattage. > I've seen some very high wattage CFLs used by some of my clients, they are > almost 1' long and, like, 85 W. I don't know if you can get them in the USA. > They are not very expensive, I think like 40 euros, but if you break one > that's money down the drain. There are also excellent CFL spotlights, too > (at least on this side of the pond). The big powerful CFLs you mention are possibly those made by Megaman. In the domestic medium size ES fitting they only go up to 60W, a tungsten light equivalent output of 300W with a better colour temperature. In GES fitting they go much larger, although all but the smallest 80W need separate ballast units included in the power supply. But they take a while to warm up and produce full power output. Mains powered tungsten halogens, if you can still find them in domestic ES fittings, are robust, long lasting, more powerful light output per watt than ordinary tungsten, a higher colour temperature, and possibly the nicest flattest colour power spectrum of any electric source except xenon. -- Chris Malcolm Warning: none of the above is indisputable fact.
From: Chris Malcolm on 4 Aug 2010 03:49 In rec.photo.digital Brent <beemdoubleu(a)use-author-supplied-address.invalid> wrote: > In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting > conditions (like many people do). > Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment > the camera flash. > It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an > aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the > directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work. > Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they > break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly. > Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W > bulbs from ACE? Why not use a remote flashgun or two? Much more portable, much more light, only downside is you'd have to do a bit of learning if you haven't used that kind of thing before. It can also be cheap if you buy cheap Hong Kong radio flash triggers and second hand film-era flashguns, but you have to use those in fully manual flash and camera modes which involves some more learning. -- Chris Malcolm Warning: none of the above is indisputable fact.
From: Don Klipstein on 4 Aug 2010 15:12
In article <4c573971$0$4991$607ed4bc(a)cv.net>, RBM wrote: > >"Brent" <beemdoubleu(a)Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote in message >news:f199ebb35fac9c1414d850cd49f19536(a)tioat.net... >> In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting >> conditions (like many people do). >> >> Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment >> the camera flash. >> >> It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an >> aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change >> the directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work. >> >> Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, >> they break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly. >> >> Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" >> 200W bulbs from ACE? > >If you want standard incandescent, you want a "rough service" lamp. They >have a more durable filament and can withstand shock and vibration. Don't >get a drip of water on one when it's hot though, it'll explode. Rough service incandescents produce light in less quantity and of a yellower color than standard incandescents do. One reason is that the filament has a different shape that conducts more heat to the bulb's fill gas. Another is that rough service lamps are generally designed for longer life expectancy. You may need to use more lamps or ones of wattage higher than 200 watts. On the other hand, there are 250W 3200K "photoflood" lamps. They are known as PH/250A23 or as ECA. They have a multisupported C9 filament like rough service lamps have. They produce 6,300 lumens, same as a "standard" 300 watt 120V 750 hour incandescent with the usual CC-6 coiled-coil filament. Their main drawback is a short life expectancy of 30 hours. Then again, the 300 watt incandescents may be good. Their CC-6 filaments usually have filament supports, while I seem to think that 200W incandescents with CC-6 filaments lack filament supports. - Don Klipstein (don(a)misty.com) |