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From: Mike Tomlinson on 28 Jan 2010 13:08
In article <hj2b0t$g89$1(a)news.eternal-september.org>, Usenet
<usenet(a)abel.co.uk> writes

> I would be grateful for anyone's experience and expertise: I don't
>want to be defeated by this thing!

Terrible diagram. Can't think how that was meant to help.

Check switch 06 carefully. One side may be broken. WITH PLUG OUT!

There is some kind of fusible link (7A) above motor 630. Check that.

The switch &2 looks like it may be me kind of heat selector switch. Is
it?

Check the link 7). A fuse?

What's "0 DLQ%RDLG" ? A hybrid PCB potted in epoxy?

You said the dishwasher was cheap. Afraid you now know why.

Ar�elik is a big factory in Turkey. Any "brand" of white goods you buy
in Europe now comes from there.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=) Bunny says Windows 7 is Vi$ta reloaded.
(")_(") http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/windows_7.png


From: Mike Tomlinson on 28 Jan 2010 13:11
In article <hj4ftt$hgv$1(a)news.eternal-september.org>, Usenet
<usenet(a)abel.co.uk> writes

> Not quite sure which 6 you mean, from this unix-like reply! Surely
>not the double switch labelled 06 over on the far left.

Oh yus. Especially if you're in the habit (as I am) of opening the
machine mid-cycle to chuck something else in.

The machine filling, pausing, filling suggests it doesn't know where the
water level is.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=) Bunny says Windows 7 is Vi$ta reloaded.
(")_(") http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/windows_7.png


From: Mike Tomlinson on 28 Jan 2010 13:23
In article <hj8g0o$1n0$2(a)news.eternal-september.org>, Usenet
<usenet(a)abel.co.uk> writes

> Also, here's a picture of the one and only PCB in my Beko "DE 2541
>FX" slimline dishwasher, at: http://i49.tinypic.com/30bn60i.jpg
>
> (...Are the black and blue blocks on the left, in lieu of the relays?)

No, they form a mains conditioner circuit, to stop rubbish generated by
the motor(s) filtering back into the mains.

Switch '6 looks like some sort of breaker (thermal breaker?) Do triple
check that.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=) Bunny says Windows 7 is Vi$ta reloaded.
(")_(") http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/windows_7.png


From: Usenet on 29 Jan 2010 18:09
Mike Tomlinson wrote:
> You said the dishwasher was cheap. Afraid you now know why.
>
> Ar�elik is a big factory in Turkey. Any "brand" of white goods you buy
> in Europe now comes from there.

Buying that dishwasher, we had in mind maintaining and repairing it
ourselves. It's actually just right for us for that reason. Very
simple, accessible, with standard parts at the right price. Ideally, we
would have got a Chinese one, if it was available.

Anyway, it turns out that the problem wasn't the dishwasher's fault
at all -- it was the self-tapping dishwasher "faucet" under the sink,
that got clogged with rusty stuff over the past few years. It was
barely a trickle! Turned off the mains, unscrewed it, cleaned it out
and put it back again. Full power again!

I agree that that circuit diagram is not very helpful. Apart from
everything being carefully scrambled and having no relationship to the
physical layout, I think it must be for the top-end Beko model. Several
features are missing from my bottom-of-the-range model. I discovered
(from Beko UK) that the Beko DE2541F slimline dishwasher model only has
a flow-meter for the water level control. That, and the flood
protection device, I suppose. The flow meter is a lovely elegant little
device, and you can hear it counting, by attaching an audible continuity
tester to two easily accessible contacts on the flow meter.

As of this evening, the water fills properly now.

I'm guessing now, but when the incoming water pressure was only at
a trickle, because the controller recognized that it was filling too
slowly, the machine went into an unusual mode: filling for 15 seconds
every five minutes, testing for the right water pressure. It never sent
any mains voltage to the main pump.

Now that the water pressure is back, the controller does send mains
voltage to the pump at the right moment. (It was *wonderful* at long
last, to see the voltmeter -- attached by insulated crocodile clips to
the motor leads -- jump from 0 to 240 volts!)

I *still* have a problem though! When the pump is meant to kick
in, it doesn't, it merely "hums". My guess is that a month of not
working, being tipped over on it's side, and having water drained from
it, etc, has seized up the pump.

Does anyone know... what do do you turn in the pump or induction
motor in an attempt to unstick it? Here's a very amateur picture of my
machine's pump:

http://i50.tinypic.com/2w6b58o.jpg

With kind regards,

Sandy
From: malua mada! on 30 Jan 2010 12:18
On Jan 29, 3:09 pm, Usenet <use...(a)abel.co.uk> wrote:

>      I *still* have a problem though!  When the pump is meant to kick
> in, it doesn't, it merely "hums".  My guess is that a month of not
> working, being tipped over on it's side, and having water drained from
> it, etc, has seized up the pump.
>
>      Does anyone know... what do do you turn in the pump or induction
> motor in an attempt to unstick it?  Here's a very amateur picture of my
> machine's pump:
>
>          http://i50.tinypic.com/2w6b58o.jpg
>
Make sure the pump CAN turn i.e. try to turn the impeller. There might
be a foreign object , something displaced from flipping the unit etc.
The crud in the water supply may be connected to recent freeze/ thaw.
Breaks loose all kinds of scale and rust.
Good luck
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