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From: Usenet on 18 Jan 2010 13:58
Hi,

Here in England, I have a Beko "DE 2541 FX" slimline dishwasher
that stopped working properly... just before Christmas.

When I press the button to start the cycle, the machine drains and
then fills as normal and then -- instead of kicking into that rhythmic
swishing sound -- it just sits there in dead silence. After 15 minutes
it might fill again, and if left might fill yet again after another
while. But it never kicks into wash mode. It does this even on the
simple no-heat, pre-wash setting.

I checked the heater, it looks perfectly fine and is not open-circuit.

I checked the thermistor, fine, it correctly changes resistance
when it's in hot water.

Everything looks pretty much perfect, after all it's only three
years old.

The main circulation pump looks pristine, and so does its
capacitor. But when I measured with a multi-meter across the terminals
of the pump (insulated crocodile clips!), I discovered that at no time
does it receive any voltage.

I decided to replace the controller card (only �30) and today I
find it still has exactly the same problem with the new controller
installed. Argh!

So what is the real culprit? Can anyone help? I know there is a
circulation sensor, a thermistor, and various door safety and overfill
doodads but I am not sure what exactly would cause this particular problem.

I would be grateful for anyone's experience and expertise: I don't
want to be defeated by this thing!

With many thanks,

Sandy


P.S. - I have obtained the circuit diagram of my Beko dishwasher, the
logic of which was designed by the Turkish company 'Arcelik'. (I don't
understand it very well, chiefly because the diagram's labels got
scrambled at some stage. And some of the symbols I don't immediately
recognize, or they're just "circles".) I would be most grateful if
someone took an informed guess as to what the components must be. I
could then relate the diagram to my actual dishwasher's control board,
components, wiring and mechanisms. Anyway, I've scanned and uploaded
the diagram here:

http://i49.tinypic.com/28r1thw.jpg

Many thanks again.
From: William Sommerwerck on 18 Jan 2010 14:04
I assume the unit uses an electronic controller, and not an
electromechanical one. If it /is/ the latter, check the timer switch.

If it's the former, it could just be a bad wire or connection between the
controller and the pump.


From: Baron on 18 Jan 2010 16:10
Usenet Inscribed thus:

> Hi,
>
> Here in England, I have a Beko "DE 2541 FX" slimline dishwasher
> that stopped working properly... just before Christmas.
>
> When I press the button to start the cycle, the machine drains
> and
> then fills as normal and then -- instead of kicking into that rhythmic
> swishing sound -- it just sits there in dead silence. After 15
> minutes it might fill again, and if left might fill yet again after
> another
> while. But it never kicks into wash mode. It does this even on the
> simple no-heat, pre-wash setting.
>
> I checked the heater, it looks perfectly fine and is not
> open-circuit.
>
> I checked the thermistor, fine, it correctly changes resistance
> when it's in hot water.
>
> Everything looks pretty much perfect, after all it's only three
> years old.
>
> The main circulation pump looks pristine, and so does its
> capacitor. But when I measured with a multi-meter across the
> terminals of the pump (insulated crocodile clips!), I discovered that
> at no time does it receive any voltage.
>
> I decided to replace the controller card (only £30) and today I
> find it still has exactly the same problem with the new controller
> installed. Argh!
>
> So what is the real culprit? Can anyone help? I know there is a
> circulation sensor, a thermistor, and various door safety and overfill
> doodads but I am not sure what exactly would cause this particular
> problem.
>
> I would be grateful for anyone's experience and expertise: I
> don't
> want to be defeated by this thing!
>
> With many thanks,
>
> Sandy
>
>
> P.S. - I have obtained the circuit diagram of my Beko dishwasher, the
> logic of which was designed by the Turkish company 'Arcelik'. (I
> don't understand it very well, chiefly because the diagram's labels
> got
> scrambled at some stage. And some of the symbols I don't immediately
> recognize, or they're just "circles".) I would be most grateful if
> someone took an informed guess as to what the components must be. I
> could then relate the diagram to my actual dishwasher's control board,
> components, wiring and mechanisms. Anyway, I've scanned and uploaded
> the diagram here:
>
> http://i49.tinypic.com/28r1thw.jpg
>
> Many thanks again.

Find & check switch 6.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
From: bud-- on 18 Jan 2010 23:04
Usenet wrote:
> Baron wrote:
>
>>> P.S. - I have obtained the circuit diagram of my Beko dishwasher, the
>>> logic of which was designed by the Turkish company 'Arcelik'. (I
>>> don't understand it very well, chiefly because the diagram's labels
>>> got
>>> scrambled at some stage. And some of the symbols I don't immediately
>>> recognize, or they're just "circles".) I would be most grateful if
>>> someone took an informed guess as to what the components must be. I
>>> could then relate the diagram to my actual dishwasher's control board,
>>> components, wiring and mechanisms. Anyway, I've scanned and uploaded
>>> the diagram here:
>>>
>>> http://i49.tinypic.com/28r1thw.jpg
>>>
>>> Many thanks again.
>>
>> Find & check switch 6.
>
> Not quite sure which 6 you mean, from this unix-like reply! Surely
> not the double switch labelled 06 over on the far left. You must mean
> the switchy hatty little symbol at the lower left of the diagram
> labelled '6. Are you thinking, like me, that this is this the
> anti-flood cutoff device? There's a round grey plastic thingy located
> on the bottom plate of my machine, and has a round white polystyrene
> float visible in this plastic device. A bit like an thick oversized
> communion wafer, if anyone remembers such things. The flood sensor
> seemed OK to me, dry too.
>

My guess is that what you describe above is a float switch and is the
"6" symbol in the next to the bottom line at the left side (as you said
above). A possible problem is that it is not closing and the motor won't
run because the circuit does not think there is enough water. Might be
there is not enough water, or the float switch has a problem. My guess
is that is what "check switch 6" is about. [My dishwasher fills partly
on a time cycle, and a malfunctioning pressure reducer prevented a
complete fill.]

The few dishwashers in the US that I have played with have a single pump
motor (probably on pin 2 as you guess). The motor is used for drain also
- the water is pumped out. That does not seem to be consistent with your
meter measurement. If there is a second motor my guess is it is pin 13 -
could be a fan for drying.

My guess is that the rectangles with diagonal slashes (like pin 3,4,5)
are solenoids such as might be attached to fill or drain valves (which
might be pins 3,5).

Pins 12 & 16 might be switches, like a door-open switch.

If pin 11 has a heater, the lower symbol may be a temperature limit switch.

Tracing wires should tell you what the symbols are.

You might want to try newsgroup uk.d-i-y

--
bud--
From: William R. Walsh on 20 Jan 2010 12:14
Hi!

I think you will find that you have a relay in your dishwasher with
burnt contacts. This will prevent the pump from ever getting power. If
you have an electronic set of controls, there ought to be some relays
somewhere.

Since you mentioned that replacing the controller board did not
resolve the problem, I would say that there is a separate power
control and distribution unit elsewhere in the unit. You should locate
this part and see what's inside or on it.

It's less likely but possible that there are fuses protecting each
major circuit in the unit. One of these may have blown. Nuisance fuse
blowing is possible but unlikely. If there is a fuse and it blew,
there is likely a fault in the circuit.

If you do end up finding that a burnt relay is the problem, you can
sometimes repair it by carefully levering the cover off the relay and
cleaning the burned contacts. Unfortunately, opening relays can
involve violence, and sometimes you just can't do it without
destroying the relay itself.

The wiring in your dishwasher should be pretty straightforward (but
this will vary depending upon how many functions it has). It should be
possible to trace out each wire and determine what it does.

William
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