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From: Dombo on 20 Mar 2010 06:28 Hans-Bernhard Br�ker wrote: > hamilton wrote: > >> I have seen 3D printer cases that I would not give to a customer. > > Strongly seconded. 3D printer output material tends to be _way_ too > brittle to actually expose to customer hands --- and it's usually in the > wrong colour or opacity, too. I have seen those to, but remember that not all 3D printers are alike. I have seen samples from 3D printers that were quite close to molded plastics. One of my previous clients used it for a low volume plastic tool that would have to flex a bit when used (click-on, click-off), not a single one ever broke. > It's good to _show_ a shape, but sucks at _holding_ that shape. Again it depends on the 3D printer technology. I have held examples in my hand that at best just useful to show the shape. But I have also held mock ups in my hand made were very close to the real thing. > As a rough reference point, you shouldn't try to hold an LCD's > zebra-rubber connectors in place using 3D-printer pieces only. At least > those parts of the setup experiencing pull-stress will break almost > immediately. Again it depends on the choice of technology.
From: Frnak McKenney on 20 Mar 2010 08:19 On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:32:42 -0700, D Yuniskis <not.going.to.be(a)seen.com> wrote: > Hi, > > I need a small quantity (~20) of small {plastic,aluminum} > enclosures. But, I'm looking for something other than a > simple rectangular prism shape. > > So far, I haven't found anything "stock" that looks > appropriate (I did find a COTS "console-like" case but > the angle is too shallow). Need an odd-shaped "container"? Carve the front and back of the shape you want into two blocks of wood, then hammer sheet brass (aluminum, if you must) into them. Remove, and bolt, screw, weld, or solder the two halves together around their contents. Apply Brasso lightly with fine steel wool to shine it up. Repeat 19 more times. Frank McKenney -- ...the fact that some geniuses were laughed at does not imply that all who are laughed at are geniuses. They laughed at Columbus, they laughed at Fulton, they laughed at the Wright Brothers. But they also laughed at Bozo the Clown. -- Carl Sagan -- Frank McKenney, McKenney Associates Richmond, Virginia / (804) 320-4887 Munged E-mail: frank uscore mckenney ayut mined spring dawt cahm (y'all)
From: hamilton on 20 Mar 2010 11:28 Dombo wrote: > Hans-Bernhard Br�ker wrote: >> hamilton wrote: >> >>> I have seen 3D printer cases that I would not give to a customer. >> >> Strongly seconded. 3D printer output material tends to be _way_ too >> brittle to actually expose to customer hands --- and it's usually in >> the wrong colour or opacity, too. > > I have seen those to, but remember that not all 3D printers are alike. > > I have seen samples from 3D printers that were quite close to molded > plastics. One of my previous clients used it for a low volume plastic > tool that would have to flex a bit when used (click-on, click-off), not > a single one ever broke. > >> It's good to _show_ a shape, but sucks at _holding_ that shape. > > Again it depends on the 3D printer technology. I have held examples in > my hand that at best just useful to show the shape. But I have also held > mock ups in my hand made were very close to the real thing. > >> As a rough reference point, you shouldn't try to hold an LCD's >> zebra-rubber connectors in place using 3D-printer pieces only. At >> least those parts of the setup experiencing pull-stress will break >> almost immediately. > > Again it depends on the choice of technology. Please help us see what technology you are talking about. I have heard that the technology has improved, but every one I have seen so far just does not look, feel right. thanks hamilton
From: Mark Borgerson on 20 Mar 2010 12:24 In article <lf-dneqPZ_GqIDnWnZ2dnUVZ_j2dnZ2d(a)earthlink.com>, frnak(a)far.from.the.madding.crowd.com says... > On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:32:42 -0700, D Yuniskis <not.going.to.be(a)seen.com> wrote: > > Hi, > > > > I need a small quantity (~20) of small {plastic,aluminum} > > enclosures. But, I'm looking for something other than a > > simple rectangular prism shape. > > > > So far, I haven't found anything "stock" that looks > > appropriate (I did find a COTS "console-like" case but > > the angle is too shallow). > > Need an odd-shaped "container"? > > Carve the front and back of the shape you want into two blocks of > wood, then hammer sheet brass (aluminum, if you must) into them. > > Remove, and bolt, screw, weld, or solder the two halves together > around their contents. Apply Brasso lightly with fine steel wool > to shine it up. > > Repeat 19 more times. > Wouldn't it be a lot more fun to mill a female mold from steel stock, then lay an aluminum or steel sheet on top of the mold and top that with a few ounces of suitable explosive? That way you compress all the hammering into a few milliseconds! Mark Borgerson
From: Andrew Smallshaw on 20 Mar 2010 13:34
On 2010-03-19, D Yuniskis <not.going.to.be(a)seen.com> wrote: > > I need a small quantity (~20) of small {plastic,aluminum} > enclosures. But, I'm looking for something other than a > simple rectangular prism shape. > Has anyone done this sort of thing before? Pointers to > helpful tips as well as things to avoid... :> I think I've said it before on c.a.e but don't overlook etching metal sheet for certain mechanical issues. If a simple fold-up sheet metal case will do then it may well be the easiest way to do it with the bonus you may well already have etching equipment on hand. By etching both sides of the sheet you can cut the panel to shape including any panel cut outs. Etching from one side only you can form fold lines or even legends for controls or connectors as part of the same step. I wouldn't use aluminium though - it is simply too reactive and while it's fast it doesn't etch evenly. Brass works a lot better but keep the sheet fairly thin - 20 or perhaps 25 thou to prevent undercutting issues. If you need sturdier than that I'd be tempted to switch to nickel silver rather than going thicker. If you want to go the plastic route it seems to me that vacforming would me the way to go. In terms of what you can do it is similar to fibreglass but the cooling time is far shorter than the curing for fibreglass - from a single plug you could easily vacform 20 examples in an afternoon. Of course that needs a vacuum former but I'd be surprised if you couldn't outsource it locally and comparatively cheaply, although I must admit I've never had reason to do this. -- Andrew Smallshaw andrews(a)sdf.lonestar.org |