How to solder to solar panels.
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From: George Jefferson on 1 May 2010 23:58 "Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_(a)charter.net> wrote in message news:S%1Dn.42031$jD2.6502(a)newsfe21.iad... > As the subject states. > > I have several panels that have the connections soldered on how ever, > one of them broke off and I had one hell of a time soldering the wire > back on. > Surface appears to be nickel or some very hard to solder metal.. > There is a thin transparent layer of a tan coating that frees very > easily when hit with heat. I don't know if that is some sort of > catalyst for soldering or a protective spray.. > > Its possible because I can see it soldered else where. At least it > looks like solder.. > > Any ideas? You are using flux and a large enough iron? Make sure you pre-tin all surfaces you want to mate as if you can't pre-tin them then they cannot be mated. If you can pretin them easily but they will not mate then it is most likely a heat issue. If you can't pre-tin a surface then it could be heat, flux, material, etc... If you have lead-free solder then it has a higher melting temperature and is more difficult to use. It also does not flow as well at lower temperatures.
From: Jamie on 2 May 2010 11:53 George Jefferson wrote: > > > "Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_(a)charter.net> wrote in > message news:S%1Dn.42031$jD2.6502(a)newsfe21.iad... > >> As the subject states. >> >> I have several panels that have the connections soldered on how ever, >> one of them broke off and I had one hell of a time soldering the wire >> back on. >> Surface appears to be nickel or some very hard to solder metal.. >> There is a thin transparent layer of a tan coating that frees very >> easily when hit with heat. I don't know if that is some sort of >> catalyst for soldering or a protective spray.. >> >> Its possible because I can see it soldered else where. At least it >> looks like solder.. >> >> Any ideas? > > > > You are using flux and a large enough iron? Make sure you pre-tin all > surfaces you want to mate as if you can't pre-tin them then they cannot > be mated. If you can pretin them easily but they will not mate then it > is most likely a heat issue. If you can't pre-tin a surface then it > could be heat, flux, material, etc... > > If you have lead-free solder then it has a higher melting temperature > and is more difficult to use. It also does not flow as well at lower > temperatures. > > You see, the problem is that the material used on the back of the panel is made of something that resembles nickel.. Very hard and very shiny.. I think 950F should've been more than enough.. It didn't even touch it. It simply just puddled and rolled off. I was able to find a spot near by where the original one was attached and its fine for now. Suggestions were made to use conductive expoxy/conductive pen.. The pen I have and I performed an experiment.. It seems that I can solder to that just fine and it sticks to a piece of chrome I have here with the DCR better than expected.. I only needed a low temperature for that.. I'll be getting some conductive epoxy for future task.. Have a good day.
From: David Eather on 2 May 2010 18:13 On 2/05/2010 9:48 AM, Jamie wrote: > David Eather wrote: >> On 2/05/2010 8:36 AM, Jamie wrote: >> >>> As the subject states. >>> >>> I have several panels that have the connections soldered on how ever, >>> one of them broke off and I had one hell of a time soldering the wire >>> back on. >>> Surface appears to be nickel or some very hard to solder metal.. >>> There is a thin transparent layer of a tan coating that frees very >>> easily when hit with heat. I don't know if that is some sort of >>> catalyst for soldering or a protective spray.. >>> >>> Its possible because I can see it soldered else where. At least it >>> looks like solder.. >>> >>> Any ideas? >>> >>> Jamie. >>> >> Use a conductive pen. > I've never tried to solder to that? > > Have used it to repair traces how ever. > > Guess I'll give that a try next time, Thanks. > > Thanks. > > Solder to it? fix/glue what you want to the board/panel and then complete the circuit with the pen - no solder.
From: Royston Vasey on 3 May 2010 07:04 "David Eather" <eather(a)tpg.com.au> wrote in message news:lfSdna2ql59wZUDWnZ2dnUVZ_vadnZ2d(a)supernews.com... > On 2/05/2010 9:48 AM, Jamie wrote: >> David Eather wrote: >>> On 2/05/2010 8:36 AM, Jamie wrote: >>> >>>> As the subject states. >>>> >>>> I have several panels that have the connections soldered on how ever, >>>> one of them broke off and I had one hell of a time soldering the wire >>>> back on. >>>> Surface appears to be nickel or some very hard to solder metal.. >>>> There is a thin transparent layer of a tan coating that frees very >>>> easily when hit with heat. I don't know if that is some sort of >>>> catalyst for soldering or a protective spray.. >>>> >>>> Its possible because I can see it soldered else where. At least it >>>> looks like solder.. >>>> >>>> Any ideas? >>>> >>>> Jamie. >>>> >>> Use a conductive pen. >> I've never tried to solder to that? >> >> Have used it to repair traces how ever. >> >> Guess I'll give that a try next time, Thanks. >> >> Thanks. >> >> > Solder to it? > > fix/glue what you want to the board/panel and then complete the circuit > with the pen - no solder. or use one of those kits sold to repair rear window demister tracks / connections in cars.
From: Nial Stewart on 3 May 2010 08:02
> I think 950F should've been more than enough.. It didn't even touch it. It simply just puddled > and rolled off. What the base material? If the panel is acting as a massive thermal sink then you could be heating the solder to 950 while the panel's getting nowhere near that. You could try pre-heating a corner with a blow torch (as long as this isn't going to destroy the panel). Nial. |