From: Spehro Pefhany on
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 17:37:14 -0400, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless(a)electrooptical.net> wrote:

>>
>For a one-off, I'd be looking at an RC airplane servo and a flexible
>shaft coupling. You can get servos with nice titanium gears and brass
>sleeve bearings for way under $100. The good ones have real genuine torque.
>
>Cheers
>
>Phil Hobbs

Yup, here's one for $119 that has 250 oz-in of torque at 4.8V

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTHR3&P=ML


From: markp on

"Phil Hobbs" <pcdhSpamMeSenseless(a)electrooptical.net> wrote in message
news:4BB3C08A.4050104(a)electrooptical.net...
> On 3/31/2010 5:18 PM, markp wrote:
>> "Tim Wescott"<tim(a)seemywebsite.now> wrote in message
>> news:5qednQCgAZgvCC7WnZ2dnUVZ_rGdnZ2d(a)web-ster.com...
>>> markp wrote:
>>>> Got a little problem. I've been asked to come up with something that
>>>> turns a manual 3 way rotary switch from one position to another and
>>>> back
>>>> again under software control. The switch is one of those bulky things
>>>> with a pointer style knob. They basically want to control a piece of
>>>> equipment without modifying it in any way.
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone know of a switch actuator manufacturer? I'm looking for
>>>> something I can place over the switch with a motor or solenoid to turn
>>>> the switch (about 45 degrees per switch position).
>>>
>>> I'll bet that you're doomed to rolling your own, but I'd sure do those
>>> suggested web searches.
>>
>> Indeed, but this is a one-off so a ahnd crafted solution would be OK (as
>> long as it's reliable!)
>>
>>>
>>> Motor -> gear -> adapter on the mechanical side, position feedback ->
>>> processor -> software -> drive -> motor on the electro-software side.
>>>
>>> Can you remove the knob and attach directly to the shaft, or do 'they'
>>> want you to leave the knob on?
>>
>> Ideally leave the knob on, but could remove it and replace it. I'm not
>> sure
>> whether the knob is press-fitted or screwed.
>>
>>> Does it have to work under manual control when the software isn't
>>> diddling
>>> with it?
>>
>> No, there will be a little control box with a manual override so all done
>> in
>> software.
>>
>>> How much individual adjustment are you allowed? How can you anchor this
>>> gizmo to the equipment?
>>
>> Good question. There are some existing fixings I could attach to, I'm
>> sure
>> they could accept a few holes drilled in the panel that has the switch.
>>
>>>
>>> In principle this is a snap, but in reality there's some effort to make
>>> it
>>> all work.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Wescott
>>> Control system and signal processing consulting
>>> www.wescottdesign.com
>>
>> This might be quite a tough mechanical challenge, as you say it sounds
>> easy
>> but the devil is in the details. The switch has click positions, I may
>> need
>> a way to sense it has seated properly in a particular position. Also I
>> don't
>> want this to ever sit just off centre of a position in case the switch
>> contacts arc.
>>
>> Mark.
>>
>>
> For a one-off, I'd be looking at an RC airplane servo and a flexible shaft
> coupling. You can get servos with nice titanium gears and brass sleeve
> bearings for way under $100. The good ones have real genuine torque.
>
> Cheers
>
> Phil Hobbs

Thanks Phil. Wasn't aware that servos like this had good torque. I'll look
into that.

Mark.


From: markp on

"Spehro Pefhany" <speffSNIP(a)interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote in message
news:hfh7r5tdggksl1tmq2ejrl0qvfcepr2q5d(a)4ax.com...
> On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 17:37:14 -0400, Phil Hobbs
> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless(a)electrooptical.net> wrote:
>
>>>
>>For a one-off, I'd be looking at an RC airplane servo and a flexible
>>shaft coupling. You can get servos with nice titanium gears and brass
>>sleeve bearings for way under $100. The good ones have real genuine
>>torque.
>>
>>Cheers
>>
>>Phil Hobbs
>
> Yup, here's one for $119 that has 250 oz-in of torque at 4.8V
>
> http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTHR3&P=ML
>
>

Nice. Thanks!


From: ehsjr on
markp wrote:
> Got a little problem. I've been asked to come up with something that turns a
> manual 3 way rotary switch from one position to another and back again under
> software control. The switch is one of those bulky things with a pointer
> style knob. They basically want to control a piece of equipment without
> modifying it in any way.
>
> Does anyone know of a switch actuator manufacturer? I'm looking for
> something I can place over the switch with a motor or solenoid to turn the
> switch (about 45 degrees per switch position).
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark.
>
>

Replace the knob with a gear. Drive that gear with a gear attached
to a motor's shaft. A cam on the driven gear can activate a micro
switch for the stop positions. You'll need a gear motor already
reduced in speed to keep the driven gear relatively small - maybe
something like cat # DCM-276 ($9.00) or DCM-245 ($13.75) or
DCM-110 ($3.50) at Allelectronics. http://www.allelectronics.com/
The first two mentioned might provide enough torque to turn the
switch with direct coupling and no additional gearing advantage.

It's a kludge, but a kludge is what they're asking for, whether
they are aware of it or not. The response will be slow at 5 or
6 rpm with the first two motors and 1:1 gearing or direct coupling,
in the neighborhood of 1/2 second. With the DCM-110, it depends on
the gearing you use. Without knowing the torque requirements
it's a guess whether any of the motors will work for you.

Ed
From: hamilton on
On 3/31/2010 9:23 PM, ehsjr wrote:
> markp wrote:
>> Got a little problem. I've been asked to come up with something that
>> turns a manual 3 way rotary switch from one position to another and
>> back again under software control. The switch is one of those bulky
>> things with a pointer style knob. They basically want to control a
>> piece of equipment without modifying it in any way.
>>
>> Does anyone know of a switch actuator manufacturer? I'm looking for
>> something I can place over the switch with a motor or solenoid to turn
>> the switch (about 45 degrees per switch position).
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Mark.
>>
>
> Replace the knob with a gear. Drive that gear with a gear attached
> to a motor's shaft. A cam on the driven gear can activate a micro
> switch for the stop positions. You'll need a gear motor already
> reduced in speed to keep the driven gear relatively small - maybe
> something like cat # DCM-276 ($9.00) or DCM-245 ($13.75) or
> DCM-110 ($3.50) at Allelectronics. http://www.allelectronics.com/
> The first two mentioned might provide enough torque to turn the
> switch with direct coupling and no additional gearing advantage.
>
> It's a kludge, but a kludge is what they're asking for, whether
> they are aware of it or not. The response will be slow at 5 or
> 6 rpm with the first two motors and 1:1 gearing or direct coupling,
> in the neighborhood of 1/2 second. With the DCM-110, it depends on
> the gearing you use. Without knowing the torque requirements
> it's a guess whether any of the motors will work for you.
>
> Ed


If this is a one off project, you can get some old 8-track drives and
remove the ratchet, paw and solenoid.

Once you look it over, you'll understand how it works.

hamilton