How does crimping work?
in [Repair]
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From: Dave Plowman (News) on 2 Dec 2009 08:19 In article <009238d8$0$23708$c3e8da3(a)news.astraweb.com>, Sylvia Else <sylvia(a)not.at.this.address> wrote: > Dave Plowman (News) wrote: > > In article <00879530$0$8181$c3e8da3(a)news.astraweb.com>, > > Sylvia Else <sylvia(a)not.at.this.address> wrote: > >> Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that > >> I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to > >> its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. > > > > Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. > > > Clearly doesn't work in the case of these particular lugs. Indeed. I do have a crimp tool supplied by one of the bigger insulated crimp makers and I'll post some pics of the result later. > Sylvia. -- *Always drink upstream from the herd * Dave Plowman dave(a)davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.
From: aussiblu on 2 Dec 2009 08:42 Another paper here of relevance http://www.eee.metu.edu.tr/~ssedele/New%20Folder/GOKCEN/45.pdf -- Regards Blue Remove ZX from email address to reply directly.
From: aussiblu on 2 Dec 2009 08:58 And what's the view on the comparative effectiveness of swage impact crimpers and hydraulic crimpers over ratchet crimpers? I find them both useful for automotive battery and similar large cabling but too cumbersome for smaller gauge wiring or close quarters as they need space and at least two free hands; indeed with the hydraulic I often need someone hold the cable and connector while I use two hands to crimp. And the swage impact crimper is a out of the car bench only tool. eg http://www.skygeek.com/ats-bs104.html for an impact swage crimper and http://www.skygeek.com/ats-bs104.html for a hydraulic crimper. I find with the right sized die they do seem to good job on even small terminals but if the size is even slightly wrong they tend to crush the terminal so its unusable. -- Regards Blue Remove ZX from email address to reply directly.
From: whit3rd on 2 Dec 2009 15:07 On Dec 2, 2:45 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...(a)davenoise.co.uk> wrote: > My dislike of the pre-insulated types is the crimp consists of flattening > the part in contact with the cable. [ want cardioid crimp cross section, not oval] > You can't produce this sort of shape with a pre-insulated type as it would > pierce the insulation. The large crimp tools I've used have hydraulic rams and make a hexagon shape; it works fine, and is very reliable. Smaller ones make a cruciform shape (and those include military/aircraft grade crimpers), also very reliable. Very small crimpers for sheetmetal U preforms also can be very reliable. And the good insulated terminals I use are compatible with the cardioid crimp, it apparently doesn't destroy the plastic (but the part of the insulation where the crimp tool bears down isn't always pretty looking). My crimp pliers are good forged steel Kleins, but some of the better sheetmetal pliers (buy a brand name, like AMP or Channellock, there's some baddies out there) also work. I always thought the OVAL crimp was intended only to deform the insulation over the wire to make a dirt seal, not to make the electric/mechanical crimp.
From: Bob Larter on 3 Dec 2009 23:44
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