What is used for sensing humidity?
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From: GregS on 25 Mar 2010 12:06 In article <g8omq5lmibv5j51efjmjel9sc9v94rc3q9(a)4ax.com>, Hammy <spam(a)spam.com> wrote: >On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 14:00:34 GMT, zekfrivo(a)zekfrivolous.com (GregS) >wrote: > > >> >>But if you have a dummy guest in the house and they >>forget to turn the fan on, then you have some relief. >> >>greg > >This looks like it would be the best solutions. The output is >conditioned and fairly linear. You could use a comparator to flip a >relay or SSR at a set voltage level/ RH. > >http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=480-3166-1-ND > >Fortunately I found a way to get a wire to where the light switch is >requiring only a small amount of drywall to be cut out. So I can just >wire it normally to a switch by the door. I'm just pulling the staples >out along the wall stud and attaching 4 conductor awg14 to the >existing wiring and pulling it through the holes in the ceiling joist >to the light and the fan. > >Works for me only one small vertical cut of drywall needs to be >patched in and the smallest wall repainted. > > Can you tell I really hate drywall. Actually not the drywall part its >the sanding, that fine dust gets all through the house and ductwork >its a PITA. OK, let me tell you about my walls, plaster. I can get maybe a 20 inch cut with a sawzall before the blade gets flat. I think it was after 1965 that they started using asbestos on the mix. I don't know much about that, but my house was built in 1952. greg
From: mike on 25 Mar 2010 11:19 GregS wrote: > In article <hodmrl$qp$2(a)news.eternal-september.org>, spamme0(a)go.com wrote: >> GregS wrote: >>> In article <hoai8d$5hu$1(a)usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, >> zekfrivo(a)zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote: >>>> In article <u6ihq51fct66e4reaeh6nodj2kicte43qi(a)4ax.com>, Hammy >> <spam(a)spam.com> >>>> wrote: >>>>> I've been goggling and all I've been finding is $50 to $100 plus, full >>>>> modules what is just the sensor used in for example dehumidifiers? >>>>> >>>>> I'm considering rigging a switch to control a bathroom exhaust fan in >>>>> my downstairs bathroom. >>>> I installed a bathroom fan. The fan is in the attic for reduced noise. All >> you >>>> hear is >>>> sssshhhhh. I installed a hair humidstat in the old fan housing. I could not >>>> really set it >>>> properly. On humid days it would just stay on. I was also looking for >> another >>>> wall >>>> mounted unit that fits in a wall box. Currently I also have a timer >> controlling >>>> the fan in parallel with the humidstat. The best solution is a condensation >>>> sensor near the ceiling somewhere. I am also reconsidering how the fan exits >>>> through the roof. i would like to keep that air in the house, and run it >>>> downwstairs, >>>> especially since I have high radon levels with negative pressure. >>>> >>> I may have found what I wanted.......... >>> >>> http://www.dewstop.com/dewstop_bathroom_fan_switches.html >>> >> Looks like this turns on the fan when condensation starts to form on the >> walls. >> Isn't it too late by then? > > But if you have a dummy guest in the house and they > forget to turn the fan on, then you have some relief. Sounds like the solution would be smarter guests. Or at least guests who can read the sign you put on the wall above the light switch. Point is that you might want something more sensitive than the device shown in your link. > > greg
From: GregS on 25 Mar 2010 13:21 In article <hofuu4$t8j$1(a)news.eternal-september.org>, spamme0(a)go.com wrote: >GregS wrote: >> In article <hodmrl$qp$2(a)news.eternal-september.org>, spamme0(a)go.com wrote: >>> GregS wrote: >>>> In article <hoai8d$5hu$1(a)usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, >>> zekfrivo(a)zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote: >>>>> In article <u6ihq51fct66e4reaeh6nodj2kicte43qi(a)4ax.com>, Hammy >>> <spam(a)spam.com> >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> I've been goggling and all I've been finding is $50 to $100 plus, full >>>>>> modules what is just the sensor used in for example dehumidifiers? >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm considering rigging a switch to control a bathroom exhaust fan in >>>>>> my downstairs bathroom. >>>>> I installed a bathroom fan. The fan is in the attic for reduced noise. All >>> you >>>>> hear is >>>>> sssshhhhh. I installed a hair humidstat in the old fan housing. I could > not >>>>> really set it >>>>> properly. On humid days it would just stay on. I was also looking for >>> another >>>>> wall >>>>> mounted unit that fits in a wall box. Currently I also have a timer >>> controlling >>>>> the fan in parallel with the humidstat. The best solution is a > condensation >>>>> sensor near the ceiling somewhere. I am also reconsidering how the fan > exits >>>>> through the roof. i would like to keep that air in the house, and run it >>>>> downwstairs, >>>>> especially since I have high radon levels with negative pressure. >>>>> >>>> I may have found what I wanted.......... >>>> >>>> http://www.dewstop.com/dewstop_bathroom_fan_switches.html >>>> >>> Looks like this turns on the fan when condensation starts to form on the >>> walls. >>> Isn't it too late by then? >> >> But if you have a dummy guest in the house and they >> forget to turn the fan on, then you have some relief. > >Sounds like the solution would be smarter guests. Or at >least guests who can read the sign you put on the wall above >the light switch. > >Point is that you might want something more sensitive than >the device shown in your link. >> I'm interested on seeing how it works when I install it. I don't really have enogh CFM going through. its a 100 CFM fan, but it has some restriction on the roof. I want to improve that. I added an air return in the bathroom to the furnace/air. That gap under the door used to be large before I added tile, but its a lot narrower. I'm seeing many new construction houses not using air returns in many rooms. I never saw one in the bathroom, except mine. greg
From: Hammy on 25 Mar 2010 14:50 On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:21:31 GMT, zekfrivo(a)zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote: >I'm interested on seeing how it works when I install it. >I don't really have enogh CFM going through. its a 100 CFM fan, >but it has some restriction on the roof. I want to improve that. >I added an air return in the bathroom to the furnace/air. >That gap under the door used to be large before I added >tile, but its a lot narrower. I'm seeing many new construction >houses not using air returns in many rooms. I never saw >one in the bathroom, except mine. > >greg The residential construction industry has progressively skimped on materials. If you're wondering why go into your local lumber yard and price 2 x 10 vs. 2 x8 or even 2 x6. They will use just what code requires sometimes not even that. You don't see 2 x 10 used to often any more in floors and roofs because of the price. My brother in laws parents bought a new house and it looks nice like they all do but its obvious corners were cut. The whole floor can be seen to flex when somebody is walking on it when you're down in the basement. Fortunately my house was constructed in the early 70's its all 2 x 10 and uses 1x 6 planks on the floors and roofs vs ply or OSB sheeting. I wouldn't buy a new house unless I made it or was present in the construction phase observing. A brand new house maybe about $750k just around the corner from me has had nothing but problems and I see today he's got another one its pretty windy here half of his shingles and flashing on one side of his roof blew off. My house only has one return per floor. I've since added another in the kitchen one high and one low. This helps exhaust cooking smoke and odours and improves efficiency of the central air. Ideally what I eventually would like to do is have a high and low intake in each room leave the high intake open in the warm weather and close the bottom one and reverse for the winter. You could reduce your central airs power consumption by using intakes closer to the roof; hot air rises.
From: GregS on 25 Mar 2010 16:30
In article <uvbnq5de636lu5fouk15vjf39obk5kgj41(a)4ax.com>, Hammy <spam(a)spam.com> wrote: >On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:21:31 GMT, zekfrivo(a)zekfrivolous.com (GregS) >wrote: > > >>I'm interested on seeing how it works when I install it. >>I don't really have enogh CFM going through. its a 100 CFM fan, >>but it has some restriction on the roof. I want to improve that. >>I added an air return in the bathroom to the furnace/air. >>That gap under the door used to be large before I added >>tile, but its a lot narrower. I'm seeing many new construction >>houses not using air returns in many rooms. I never saw >>one in the bathroom, except mine. >> >>greg > >The residential construction industry has progressively skimped on >materials. If you're wondering why go into your local lumber yard and >price 2 x 10 vs. 2 x8 or even 2 x6. They will use just what code >requires sometimes not even that. You don't see 2 x 10 used to often >any more in floors and roofs because of the price. > >My brother in laws parents bought a new house and it looks nice like >they all do but its obvious corners were cut. The whole floor can be >seen to flex when somebody is walking on it when you're down in the >basement. > >Fortunately my house was constructed in the early 70's its all 2 x 10 >and uses 1x 6 planks on the floors and roofs vs ply or OSB sheeting. I >wouldn't buy a new house unless I made it or was present in the >construction phase observing. > >A brand new house maybe about $750k just around the corner from me has >had nothing but problems and I see today he's got another one its >pretty windy here half of his shingles and flashing on one side of his >roof blew off. > >My house only has one return per floor. I've since added another in >the kitchen one high and one low. This helps exhaust cooking smoke and >odours and improves efficiency of the central air. > >Ideally what I eventually would like to do is have a high and low >intake in each room leave the high intake open in the warm weather and >close the bottom one and reverse for the winter. You could reduce your >central airs power consumption by using intakes closer to the roof; >hot air rises. There is a trend to get velocities up to stir up the air more. Then position does not make as much difference. My house has 2X10 on the flooring but the main beam is 4 2X8's I am in the process of remodling and strapping two 2X10 onto the existing 2X8's. Nails and bolts. I took out the orginal cinderbloc supports. I cannot correct the beam myself, in that it has sagged quicly from the ends of the house, then sort of levels off in the middle. The wood in the house looks crude and may have been a little wet when installed. I have been working on the electrical for a couple years and am still doing things. The smell of fresh pine is nice. greg |