What is used for sensing humidity?
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From: Michael A. Terrell on 25 Mar 2010 19:12 Hammy wrote: > > On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:21:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" > <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > > > > >Hammy wrote: > >> > >> Can you tell I really hate drywall. Actually not the drywall part its > >> the sanding, that fine dust gets all through the house and ductwork > >> its a PITA. > > > > > > There is no need for sanding, if you do it right. Get as smooth of a > >joint as you can, then use a damp sponge to remove any ridges or > >excess. No sanding, no plaster dust to clean up. If you're good at it, > >you can't tell a repair was made. Just don't to it in one thick coat. > >Several thin layers don't shrink or crack. > > I start out like that but then something goes wrong and I usually > always have to do more sanding then I want. I'll keep doing it until > its invisible but I admit I fall under the category of "not very good > at it". All it takes is a little practice. :) > Whenever I do any Reno's that's usually the part that takes the most > time for me. -- Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
From: Michael A. Terrell on 25 Mar 2010 19:13 "krw(a)att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote: > > On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 14:35:41 -0700, Jim Thompson > <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon(a)On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote: > > >On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:21:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" > ><mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > > > >> > >>Hammy wrote: > >>> > >>> Can you tell I really hate drywall. Actually not the drywall part its > >>> the sanding, that fine dust gets all through the house and ductwork > >>> its a PITA. > >> > >> > >> There is no need for sanding, if you do it right. Get as smooth of a > >>joint as you can, then use a damp sponge to remove any ridges or > >>excess. No sanding, no plaster dust to clean up. If you're good at it, > >>you can't tell a repair was made. Just don't to it in one thick coat. > >>Several thin layers don't shrink or crack. > > > >And use the fiberglass joint tape! > > And mix-it-yourself mud. The premixed stuff sucks. Some of it is very good, but it has to be fresh. If it's old, it's only good for a basecoat. -- Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
From: krw on 25 Mar 2010 19:48 On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:13:00 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > >"krw(a)att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote: >> >> On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 14:35:41 -0700, Jim Thompson >> <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon(a)On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote: >> >> >On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:21:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" >> ><mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: >> > >> >> >> >>Hammy wrote: >> >>> >> >>> Can you tell I really hate drywall. Actually not the drywall part its >> >>> the sanding, that fine dust gets all through the house and ductwork >> >>> its a PITA. >> >> >> >> >> >> There is no need for sanding, if you do it right. Get as smooth of a >> >>joint as you can, then use a damp sponge to remove any ridges or >> >>excess. No sanding, no plaster dust to clean up. If you're good at it, >> >>you can't tell a repair was made. Just don't to it in one thick coat. >> >>Several thin layers don't shrink or crack. >> > >> >And use the fiberglass joint tape! >> >> And mix-it-yourself mud. The premixed stuff sucks. > > > Some of it is very good, but it has to be fresh. If it's old, it's >only good for a basecoat. It's not good for anything. Premix is water soluble and the second coat softens the first - a major PITA. The mix-it-yourself stuff is plaster of paris based and sets up permanently. It's *much* easier work with.
From: Jim Thompson on 25 Mar 2010 20:14 On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:11:03 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > >Jim Thompson wrote: >> >> On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:21:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" >> <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: >> >> > >> >Hammy wrote: >> >> >> >> Can you tell I really hate drywall. Actually not the drywall part its >> >> the sanding, that fine dust gets all through the house and ductwork >> >> its a PITA. >> > >> > >> > There is no need for sanding, if you do it right. Get as smooth of a >> >joint as you can, then use a damp sponge to remove any ridges or >> >excess. No sanding, no plaster dust to clean up. If you're good at it, >> >you can't tell a repair was made. Just don't to it in one thick coat. >> >Several thin layers don't shrink or crack. >> >> And use the fiberglass joint tape! > > > If the hole is big enough to need it. Small repairs don't always >need it. Sometimes I use a scrap of aluminum screen wire in the bottom >of the hole, and gently press the first layer of plaster through the >mesh. That gives a sold base for the rest of the repair without >anything to ruin the finish. I've used coarse steel wool as a "binder". For nasty jobs, like when the autistic grandson flung open a door and busted thru the door stop, I take a piece of wood, string thru the middle, lather with glue, then pull it up behind the hole... then do the patching after the glue dries. ...Jim Thompson -- | James E.Thompson, CTO | mens | | Analog Innovations, Inc. | et | | Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus | | Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | | | Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat | | E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 | The only thing bipartisan in this country is hypocrisy
From: krw on 25 Mar 2010 20:22
On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:14:53 -0700, Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon(a)On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote: >On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:11:03 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" ><mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > >> >>Jim Thompson wrote: >>> >>> On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:21:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" >>> <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: >>> >>> > >>> >Hammy wrote: >>> >> >>> >> Can you tell I really hate drywall. Actually not the drywall part its >>> >> the sanding, that fine dust gets all through the house and ductwork >>> >> its a PITA. >>> > >>> > >>> > There is no need for sanding, if you do it right. Get as smooth of a >>> >joint as you can, then use a damp sponge to remove any ridges or >>> >excess. No sanding, no plaster dust to clean up. If you're good at it, >>> >you can't tell a repair was made. Just don't to it in one thick coat. >>> >Several thin layers don't shrink or crack. >>> >>> And use the fiberglass joint tape! >> >> >> If the hole is big enough to need it. Small repairs don't always >>need it. Sometimes I use a scrap of aluminum screen wire in the bottom >>of the hole, and gently press the first layer of plaster through the >>mesh. That gives a sold base for the rest of the repair without >>anything to ruin the finish. > >I've used coarse steel wool as a "binder". > >For nasty jobs, like when the autistic grandson flung open a door and >busted thru the door stop, I take a piece of wood, string thru the >middle, lather with glue, then pull it up behind the hole... then do >the patching after the glue dries. For a small hole I either use a piece of wood or sheetrock in the back with a string through the middle, tied off to an opposite wall, mud, then cut the string and finish. They also make metal patch kits that stick to the wall, mud over, sand, and finish. For larger holes I cut a piece of sheetrock to fit the hole (save the cut out) and use a couple of strips of wood screwed to the wall and plug to anchor it. |