What is used for sensing humidity?
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From: Hammy on 25 Mar 2010 20:37 On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:14:53 -0700, Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon(a)On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote: > >For nasty jobs, like when the autistic grandson flung open a door and >busted thru the door stop, I take a piece of wood, string thru the >middle, lather with glue, then pull it up behind the hole... then do >the patching after the glue dries. > > ...Jim Thompson Nice I'll have to remember that one.
From: Michael A. Terrell on 26 Mar 2010 01:31 Jim Thompson wrote: > > On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:11:03 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" > <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > > > > >Jim Thompson wrote: > >> > >> On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:21:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" > >> <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > >> > >> > > >> >Hammy wrote: > >> >> > >> >> Can you tell I really hate drywall. Actually not the drywall part its > >> >> the sanding, that fine dust gets all through the house and ductwork > >> >> its a PITA. > >> > > >> > > >> > There is no need for sanding, if you do it right. Get as smooth of a > >> >joint as you can, then use a damp sponge to remove any ridges or > >> >excess. No sanding, no plaster dust to clean up. If you're good at it, > >> >you can't tell a repair was made. Just don't to it in one thick coat. > >> >Several thin layers don't shrink or crack. > >> > >> And use the fiberglass joint tape! > > > > > > If the hole is big enough to need it. Small repairs don't always > >need it. Sometimes I use a scrap of aluminum screen wire in the bottom > >of the hole, and gently press the first layer of plaster through the > >mesh. That gives a sold base for the rest of the repair without > >anything to ruin the finish. > > I've used coarse steel wool as a "binder". Don't let it be too close to the surface in humid areas or the rust will bleed through to the surface. that was why I used scraps of aluminum screening. If it corrodes, it's still a very light color. > For nasty jobs, like when the autistic grandson flung open a door and > busted thru the door stop, I take a piece of wood, string thru the > middle, lather with glue, then pull it up behind the hole... then do > the patching after the glue dries. You can also shove a wad of newspaper into the hole, and down a few inches so you can fill the void with patching plaster to spread the force across a wider area for the next time. If the hole is the size of a door knob (or large) I cut out a piece as high as necessary, and between the studs to put a new piece of drywall. While the hole is open you can screw a pair of blocks to the studs, and put a piece of 1" * 4" in the wall so it is a lot harder to damage in the future. Then you only have a very thin line to plaster around the new piece of drywall. -- Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
From: Michael A. Terrell on 26 Mar 2010 01:31 "krw(a)att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote: > > It's not good for anything. Premix is water soluble and the second coat > softens the first - a major PITA. The mix-it-yourself stuff is plaster of > paris based and sets up permanently. It's *much* easier work with. It depends on the supplier. Some has industrial alcohol as well as water. It has a lot longer shelf life, and you need to put a thin layer of water over any leftover premix to extend the useful life. Once it starts to harden, it's useless except to pour into a hole over a layer of newspaper to fill a wall cavity. The second coat should be a lot thinner than the first coat. A finish coat should be under 1/8". A 1/16" coat is preferred, to fill in scratches or hairline cracks caused by applying too much at once. OTOH, you can use 'Never Shrink' if you're lazy, and not too choosy. -- Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
From: krw on 26 Mar 2010 20:57 On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 01:31:43 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > >"krw(a)att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote: >> >> It's not good for anything. Premix is water soluble and the second coat >> softens the first - a major PITA. The mix-it-yourself stuff is plaster of >> paris based and sets up permanently. It's *much* easier work with. > > > It depends on the supplier. Some has industrial alcohol as well as >water. It has a lot longer shelf life, and you need to put a thin layer >of water over any leftover premix to extend the useful life. Once it >starts to harden, it's useless except to pour into a hole over a layer >of newspaper to fill a wall cavity. But the final coat is *not* waterproof until it's painted. The second coat of mud loosens the first and can become a real PITA. This isn't all bad, though because you can work the dried mud with a sponge instead of sanding. I find the PITA more trouble than it's worth, though. The mix-it-yourself stuff cures much faster (15-90min, depending on the mix) and is easier to work with. > > > The second coat should be a lot thinner than the first coat. A finish >coat should be under 1/8". A 1/16" coat is preferred, to fill in >scratches or hairline cracks caused by applying too much at once. 1/8" is *way* too thick for a finish coat. The problem with the premix is that the finish coat softens the base coat so any sanding done on the base coat is useless. > OTOH, you can use 'Never Shrink' if you're lazy, and not too choosy. Never used it (I don't think).
From: Michael A. Terrell on 27 Mar 2010 00:19
"krw(a)att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote: > > On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 01:31:43 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" > <mike.terrell(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > > > > >"krw(a)att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote: > >> > >> It's not good for anything. Premix is water soluble and the second coat > >> softens the first - a major PITA. The mix-it-yourself stuff is plaster of > >> paris based and sets up permanently. It's *much* easier work with. > > > > > > It depends on the supplier. Some has industrial alcohol as well as > >water. It has a lot longer shelf life, and you need to put a thin layer > >of water over any leftover premix to extend the useful life. Once it > >starts to harden, it's useless except to pour into a hole over a layer > >of newspaper to fill a wall cavity. > > But the final coat is *not* waterproof until it's painted. The second coat of > mud loosens the first and can become a real PITA. I've hung & finished a LOT of drywall and never had that problem. > This isn't all bad, though > because you can work the dried mud with a sponge instead of sanding. I find > the PITA more trouble than it's worth, though. The mix-it-yourself stuff > cures much faster (15-90min, depending on the mix) and is easier to work with. It can set up too fast, and crack. > > The second coat should be a lot thinner than the first coat. A finish > >coat should be under 1/8". A 1/16" coat is preferred, to fill in > >scratches or hairline cracks caused by applying too much at once. > > 1/8" is *way* too thick for a finish coat. The problem with the premix is > that the finish coat softens the base coat so any sanding done on the base > coat is useless. 1/8" is what I see when the job is done by a 'pro'. > > OTOH, you can use 'Never Shrink' if you're lazy, and not too choosy. > > Never used it (I don't think). -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida http://www.flickr.com/photos/materrell/ |