Do you think splicing 100' of wire onto a GTO exit wand would work?
in [Repair]
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From: GregS on 2 Feb 2010 11:33 In article <02dcc3e0db1796480f8c651377e7986c(a)tioat.net>, Elmo <dcdraftworks(a)Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote: >On Mon, 01 Feb 2010 20:16:20 -0500, news(a)jecarter.us wrote: > >> Could be like the gate at a corporate site I occasionally visit - for >> entry, you speak to a guard and show ID via a TV camera and the guard >> opens the gate. A device like the one in this thread is used to allow >> people to exit the gate. > >Yes. The "typical" gate setup is: > >1a. Owner approaches gate and flips remote control to get in. >1b. Utility truck approaches gate and pushed their logged 4-digit combo on >the digital keypad to get in (whether or not someone is home) >1c. Guest arrives and has to press the intercom button and can only be let >in if someone inside the house provides them access. Guest then pushes a >button on the keypad to open the gate. > >2. In all cases above, the gate closes 25 seconds after it was opened. > >3. In all cases above, when the owner/utility/guest leaves, the gate >automatically opens for them via the exit want magnetic field disturbance >sensor. > >At least that's how my gate is set up. Some are set up to open via >cellphone but mine isn't fancy. I am familiar with only one setup. A sewage plant. The opperator controls gate open or close, and the pickup prevents the gate from ramming into the vehicle. You must have many guests and visitors to warrent this setup you have, greg
From: blueman on 2 Feb 2010 12:14 mm <NOPSAMmm2005(a)bigfoot.com> writes: > If you're burying it when you're done, silicone tape, I think it's > called, is even better than heat-shrink tubing and doesn't slip on, it > wraps on. Stretch it to 2 or 3 times its length, then wrap while > streched and within a few days it merges into one big probably > waterproof blob. Hard to find though. HD has it in several locations in our local stores (plumbing and maybe also electrical areas) - may be hard to find cuz most people don't know about it.
From: Elmo on 2 Feb 2010 13:30 On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 16:33:19 GMT, GregS wrote: > You must have many guests and visitors to warrent this setup you have, I think it's the "typical" setup to have a way for guests to leave. You have to note that I considered wiring a push-button (doorbell type) switch in the house to open the gate for guests to leave but I can't even see the gate from the house since it's about 500 feet down a hill to the gate - so that would be a safety problem. I guess I should walk everyone to the gate but that seems like a lot to ask of me. But I think most people have the following bare minimums and common electronics. BARE MINIMUM ELECTRONICS: - Keypad & remote open (with automatic close) - Stall force setting so nobody gets crushed EXTREMELY COMMON ELECTRONICS: - Intercom for convenient entrance of guests - Exit wand for automatic open upon exit SPECIALTY ELECTRONICS: - Telephone-operated gates (open/close from your cell phone) - Video feeds on the gates (so you can see who is at the gate)
From: mm on 2 Feb 2010 13:37 On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 12:14:22 -0500, blueman <NOSPAM(a)nospam.com> wrote: >mm <NOPSAMmm2005(a)bigfoot.com> writes: >> If you're burying it when you're done, silicone tape, I think it's >> called, is even better than heat-shrink tubing and doesn't slip on, it >> wraps on. Stretch it to 2 or 3 times its length, then wrap while >> streched and within a few days it merges into one big probably >> waterproof blob. Hard to find though. > >HD has it in several locations in our local stores (plumbing and maybe also >electrical areas) - may be hard to find cuz most people don't know about it. It seems we are talking about -- at least that's what's included in his kit -- "Scotch 23 High Voltage Tape"**, but when I search on that at the Home Depot site, I get 2 hits, regular vinyl electrical tape and packaging tape. When I search on "Scotch 23", I don't get anything. Now HD and Lowes have the worst webpages I've come across, so maybe that doesn't mean anything. The one easily visible thing I've noticed about this tape is that it is wound on a white plastic spool, instead of a cardboard spool. It's thick and has a backing layer that has to be removed to use a piece. Are we talking about the same thing? Do they really have it at HD. I looked years ago but couldnt' find it. It's expensive. I think I paid 11 or 12 dollars a roll, but it's great for special uses. **Other listings for this tape call it self-fusing. That probably refers to what I said about merging into a big blob. Other descriptions make reference to the polyester liner, the backing layer. But so far, I've found little reference to how it is to be applied. Just one line "Physical and electrical properties are unaffected by the degree of stretch." and I don't see how that is even true. OF course if it is stretched to thee times its length and it's 2/3rds thinner, it's going to have lower strength and electrical insulating qualities. They even have a chart about that on page 3 of the same data sheet. http://www.cablejoints.co.uk/upload/3M_Scotch_23_Tape___Self_Amalgamating_Rubber_Tape.pdf Self-amalgamating they call it here. BTW, if you don't stretch it, it won't stick to what's underneath it. There is no adhesive on the tape.
From: Elmo on 2 Feb 2010 13:39
On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 12:14:22 -0500, blueman wrote: > mm <NOPSAMmm2005(a)bigfoot.com> writes: >> If you're burying it when you're done, silicone tape > > HD has it in several locations in our local stores (plumbing and maybe also > electrical areas) - may be hard to find cuz most people don't know about it. I'll go to Home Depot today and let us know what I find. In hind sight, I should have bought the WIRELESS vehicle exit sensor setup! http://www.mightymule.com/PDF/Manuals/FM130-Wireless-Exit-Sensor.pdf |